it is very visible. Blue & green LEDs in particular seem to be very efficient with being able to glow and nearly unmeasurable milliamp loads. The resistor is a tiny 1/8 watt, and a very high resistance of 300K for the (2)-CR2032 cells, and i found a 100K works fine on a single CR2032. I have a few other lanterns now using that set up for over a year glowing on a single 2032. Even if the cells lasts only 4 years running, i see these lithium cells in stores here selling 2 for a buck.
I guess I don’t see the point of having a separate power source for the soft-glow, low output, additional light when there will already be 4 18650s. Why wouldn’t it make more sense to tap into the existing power source to feed a locator light?
If i could source them in large numbers i would, but i can’t seem to find many of the hosts online anymore. (i reserved this pic for an upcoming topic for “Micro Lanterns” but heres what they are. These use the hard-to-find remote phosphor, very efficient 5mm LEDs, in a real nice warn white tint which have an very even 360 degree light emittance, (hard to find in any LED design) and modded these tiny lanterns (these lanterns are about the same size as a C-cell battery and can be a keychain) They have two modes, on, and glow mode. I modded them with these unique 5mm LEDs, a micro clicky switch, and a 300K resistor for the glow night light mode, (should run for 5+ years on the two CR2032 coin lithium cells) and a 96 ohm resistor for the on mode, which i tested it to run for about 23 hours of light twice as bright as a large candle, then will run for another 35+ hours at a dimming rate. (the red classic Hurricane lantern one used to be just a pencil sharpener and not even an actual lantern…until i got my lantern-building-fingers on it. These tiny lanterns make the LT1 test sample look huge in comparison, to show how tiny these really are.
If such a locator leds is to be used and have to work for years, the operating should bypass the MCU (and thus Anduril) because powering the MCU for controllung it uses way much energy than the led itself. So the led should simply connect between batt+ and batt- with a high value resistor in series, like Den’s coin cell setup, and thus always be on. Using a 100K resistor gives very visible locator light and drains 4 18650 cells in 40 years.
Although I admit, I’m enamored by that red kerosene lantern style version you showed.
I’m guessing you chose that remote phosphor LED for a very warm CCT (less than 2700K?), but if you can still find the Yuji 5mm warm white LED’s, they also look really good at 3200K.
Toykeeper has programed the LT1 Andruil firmware to balance the output across the tint ramping, so it should be close the same from the 3000K to the 5000K range.