The LT1 comes with an A to C cable.
Thanks for the testing.
Do you have a USB-C to USB-A Female adapter? Iām curious if gong from C on your Anker to A then back to C with the supplied cable will work.
I already have some USB A to C cables so that is not a problem. I would have preferred USB PD compatibility so I could just use the same cables I use for my phone. I mostly charge my phone using USB C to C and not A to C.
Afraid not. Good idea if anyone else has one to try?
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I checked the solder on mine and the chips were soldered correctly, I have now bridged the extra chips.
The charge circuit on mine was complete already and taking full charge.
With all bridges soldered on turbo (double click) I gotā¦
2.50A - 4.2v = 10.5w
2.53A - 3.7v = 9.38w
2.04A - 3.1v = 6.36w
It works. Aukey USB-C 18W PD -> USB-A->USB-C Adapter
Nice one mtn, thatās useful for me as I have a few type C chargers now :+1:
Thanks for the testing.
ps - your image:
I did not have a Pixel charger to test, but iām guessing something is different that the Apple, Samsung & HTC chargers i tested, which all work fine & charge the lantern.
Were any of those USB-C chargers?
Iād be surprised to find a USB-A charger that didnāt work, and a post or three up is a report that a USB-C to A adapter plus the included USB-A to C charge cable allowed a USB-C charger to provide power to an LT1.
Itās the issue with USB-C chip thatās talked about earlier. I tried C-C with Anker, Aukey, and Apple (iPhone 11 Pro) and none charge however the same chargers all work with my Xtar PB2S QC 3.0 + PD 3.0 https://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/chargers/xtar-pb2s-qc-3-0-pd-3-0-portable-li-ion-charger-and-powerbank-red.html
Soon as I pop an A-C converter on it makes the C side ādumbā and it works.
The Samsung charger i tested is for the USB-C S9, but the plug interface on the charger itself is the standard USB A type plug, ( the charge cord supplied by Samsung is the USB-A to USB-C common charging type.
(same as this one: ( EDIT: I canāt get any links to any images to work at the momentā¦ :person_facepalming:
This is the issue per the reddit thread I linked back at the end of August:
From what Iāve read the solution is to āConnect two pulldown resistors (Rd) with nominal value 5.1kOhm to CC1 and CC2ā inside the LT1 (power sink). Hopefully this can be done for a future production run.
Hereās a schematic from a Richtek whitepaper:
On this USB-C power breakout board from SparkFun you can see that there are two 5.1 kĪ© resistors:
No, if you already adjusted the floor to level 1/150, itās already as low as the firmware can go. The only ways to reduce it more are:
- Disconnect some of the bridged solder pads, which could reduce it to about 60% of the default power level. This affects all modes.
- I might be able to get the firmware to go even lower, using a new hybrid-PWM trick I found, but it probably would only increase runtime a little bit since the LEDs arenāt the primary component eating power in moon mode. Also not sure yet if itās feasible, but I hope to find out eventually. Itād also have the benefit of increasing the tint ramp resolution in low modes.
- Thereās another way to make the brightness lower by speeding up the MCU, but it actually reduces runtime soā¦ I try to avoid that.
Alternately, you may be able to get a much lower level and dramatically longer runtime by using the button LEDs in high mode. Iāve only tried on a prototype with green LEDs, but I find itās easily bright enough to navigate in a dark room. But the orange/amber LEDs used in production might not be bright enough for that.
Wow, there is quite a bit more to that than I was expecting, I guessed it may have been a limit but itās interesting to hear why and see the thought that has gone into this.
The runtime is nice but not the main reason I like moon, the hybrid trick sounds like itās worth exploring. I really like using sunset whilst watching a movie for slight background light with the main lights off. Lower for that would be cool with no worries about runtime.
I have used the Q8 just by the green button quite often to navigate, I will see how the amber works out.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge TK :+1:
Good points on that, as i did ( and donāt have any) USB C to C type chargers to test, and only tested the more common USB charger devices that have the more common USB-A larger socket port. one fix is to have Sofirn add the 5.1K resistors to the CC terminals if possible, (or at least include the USB-Ato C adapter to work with those chargers that use a USB-C to C cord only. (most people have wall chargers with the standard socket, and for most charging devices like Solar panels, power banks, car adapters, standard wall chargers all still have the type A plug socket as standard anyway.
Not to toot my own horn, but my colors look pretty close to those official ones, other than my orange is a bit off
Please note that the various colors in the preference poll are simulated.
The factory will take the most popular colors and see which ones they can actually make. Once samples are run, images of actual prototypes will be posted.
Yes I know, but they had accsess to the CAD files, and can change colors pretty easily, but also since hes using a standard of some sort, with the numbers and whatever, odds are it will be pretty close, but at the same time, they could be very different, so you have a point.
If we were talking a press run, yeah. The colors and textures would be pretty spot on. The results of this process vary by type or metal, the finish on the metal, the chemical bath used, the dyes used, etc. Sometimes they are spot on, sometimes you look at it, toss it towards a reject bin and scratch it off the list.
I canāt wait to see the actual options either. :partying_face:
Interesting, I wonder if a 2.0 C-C cable would do the trick? (like the Monoprice Essentials ones)