Yep, I’ve found that one to be completely reliable no matter what build I do with it.
Has Richard got one comparable to it ‘DB’? … If so which one is it??
His 17mmMTNm is the FET+1, you can choose from a wide range of UI/firmware. He has implemented the “fix” on his Bistro versions as well so those should be stable, you might make a note to him if you intend to use one in a triple so he’s sure to have it set up right but I believe he’s confident they’ll work regardless.
Yep, that’s it. He’s even revised the board such that the positive lead can go straight from the top of the spring (bypass style) to the LED for absolute current flow.
Thanks Dale……… :+1:
I just bought 2 kits from Nitro that included
mcpcb
3x xplv6
ledil cute 3-ss Optic
Heat sink
I just missed out on the last BFF edition X6 host on Banggood . They were in stock yesterday and today all sold out!
There are 19 EE X6 hosts left on Gearbest but I would have preferred unbranded even for a few dollars more.
I still need to choose a driver. I will probably take that hint between you and Teacher and go for this too.
The X6 triple really boggles the mind, the size of the light in comparison to the output, just crazy impressive and one of my all time favorite builds.
Any idea if the EE X6 host from Bangood comes with the AR lens or was that only for the special BLF edition which is now sold out?
It comes with an AR lens that seems to be pretty decent quality.
So I am going to order drivers, seeing as you are still along for the ride Dale I would/do appreciate your input.
I am going to order a couple of these guys.
I am going to assume that I ought to make it easy on myself and get them with the Complete | Wires + Bypassed Spring (+$1.50) option.
As for the firmware option I figure (and this is an uneducated guess based on a weeks work of poking around on BLF) to go with the Bistro option…. good choice?
Do I also choose the Bistro temp control option?
I am still learning what everything is … there is tons to absorb but I guess once I have the lexicon down it should get easier. I am assuming once I put a flashlight together I will have a better understanding of all the components/…
Thanks in advance!
EDIT: I am going to order a few 18560s now too. What is the recommended cell for a triple of this caliber. I am ordering from Mountain Electronics BTW.
Batteries… I am not the one to answer this. BUT, if you are looking for getting the most out of the triple you need something capable of Hi Drain, higher discharge current. Generally this is not the highest capacity mAh.
I am using the LG ICR18650HG2 - Hi Drain 18650 - 3000mAh
Flat top work in everything I own including the S2+ and triples.
RMM only has HG2 on button top at the moment.
Be aware of the recent issues getting batteries shipped from overseas. You may have trouble checking out if you have LiIons in your cart. I recently got Batts from GearBest shipped to USA without issue. Also be aware of Fakes out there. HG2 is a common faked battery with a brown sleeve over a FireStarter.
Match the Turbo Timer to the Firmware. Bistro sensor, no timer with the Bistro Firmware. In configuration you can set the Temp Sensor where you want it. Set it a little lower as it will continue to heat up as the light kicks down modes.
That’s the best one to get, Richard works very diligently to ensure his parts are flawless. Bistro is an excellent UI for it’s adaptive nature, you can set it up almost any way you can think of and the adjustable temperature control makes it sweet as well, adjust it for your max heat preference then forget about it.
The Samsung 30Q is a preferred cell for me in an X6 triple, that or the Efest 35A. LG HE-2 also works very well.
Thanks guys. I appreciate the input. I’ve ordered the innards from Nitro, the hosts from Gearbest and am waiting for my international account at M.E. To activate and I’ll order up the drivers and cells.
Now I wait…
Have a great Labour Day weekend!
As an example of what the X6 can do…
Today I was bored and it was promising to turn into a not-so-good day, so I built an X6 from one I’ve had sitting around since April. I had the Cutter XM-L/XHP-50 triple board from Richard and I had the CUTE-3 optic as well as an aluminum spacer/heat sink I cut out months ago. I looked through my stuff on the work bench and found 14 XM-L2 emitters, 3 of which came out of Sunwayman lights and as these 14 (and specifically these 3) had the same look under a UV light I went with the Sunwayman rejects. (There were also 4 warm white that again got put aside.) These 3 from Sunwayman look to be 1A or 1D in tint, not sure the power bin.
I also found an old Qlite modified FET driver that I built back when Comfychair was sorting all this out, this one has the big Vishay 70N02 upside down and 4 modes. I ran an 18ga lead through the board and soldered it under the spring to be sure there would be plenty of power delivery, the negative lead is another 18 ga soldered to the pad on the upside down Vishay FET.
The tail pcb got a through board bypass of 20 ga wire. So now what do I have?
With an LG HE-2 at 4.16V rested it is making…
42.68 Lumens
360.87
1831.95
3774.3
Amp draw at the tail is 11.18A. Obviously these top numbers will be more with a freshly charged cell.
Had I bought new XM-L2 U4 1D’s or 1C’s from Richard it would also be higher, these emitters are from some time back and as such are most likely U2 power bin.
3774 lumens in an X6 from scrapped emitters. Not too shabby at all. 
I sure do love the Eagle Eye X6! 
Edit: The Comfychair Qlite FET driver with an upside down Vishay 70N02 was back in early to mid 2014. I built my first Triple X6 in Nov of 2014 on the sample from Krono’s group buy that sold so many lights. Back then is when it all started.
Edit II: I found a pic of the driver, from way back in March of 2014. The ComfyChair Qlite Vishay 70N02…
All the 7135 chips are stripped off a Qlite, the cap and diode and voltage sense resistors remain intact. This one even has the through board power supply (we found early on that the traces were too thin to support triples and such. 
)
All the batteries you suggested are currently out of stock.
Except the button top… does that make any difference really? MOst of the MODs I have for vaping will except either. How is it for flashlights?
I found some locally. Do these look correct to you? They’re in Canada so that’s a bonus for me. Also the price is good I think. (Canadian dollars so about 7.00 american)
efest
Samsung
The Sony seems expensive though
Thanks
When I was looking for a cell to test this new Triple XM-L2 X6 on all the lights I pulled cells out of had partially discharged cells in them, so each one went on the charger as I looked for one that was closer to being full. Those are all off the charger now, here’s what they do in this particular light…
LG HE-2…………3953.7
Efest 3000mAh…3857.1
Sony VTC5………3960.6
Efest 35A…………3777.75
Samsung 30Q……4039.95
These are all now at 4.20V coming off my new Gyrfalcon 8 bay charger.
Given those you showed, I’d pick the Sony VTC5… provided it’s from a trusted source. This cell has been copied a lot.
I am about to order the drivers. Is there anything else I might need? Thermal paste? What kind of solder should I order? Other odds and ends from ME?
Thanks!
You guys are terrible. Awesome and terrible at the same time. You’re not flashlight addiction enablers …. You’re damn PUSHERS!!!
So I get a private message from V-DubPieces pointing me to the Astrolux SS + Copper CREE XPL-HI for $35 shipped….
I love the look of the Copper and SS so I couldn’t resist!
I just finished ordering 2x EEX6 hosts yesterday! Now I have to do justifying gymnastics to explain to my wife why I just ordered another light…. I know, I’ll give one to her Dad!
So here is my plan and I hope it works! It will only work if the Astrolux and and EE X6 are the same size and they look like they are…
I am going to build my Dad a triple with the EE X6 host as planned. I have all the parts coming from Nitro.
I would like to take the innards out of the Astrolux and put them into the other EE X6 host and give that light to my Father-in-law. So the Diver and the CREE XPL-HI won’t go to waste.
I would then like to use the now empty Astrolux SS+Copper as a host for the second set of triple components I ordered from Nitro and build myself a SS+copper triple.
Will this work? Please tell me it will!
EDIT: I hope it works because I AM NOT like you guys and want several versions of the same light… I swear I’m not like that… At all…
Arctic Alumina Thermal Paste, or Adhesive, depending on how you want to go about it. 20ga Turnigy wires, I like Kester solder paste, don’t think Richard has it, Mechanics or something like that will work ok but doesn’t flow as nicely. Likewise I’ve grown to really like the Kester .031 solder with flux core.
Making the triples, I usually (ok, always) drill out the center for the wires and glue in the heat sink with Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive. Also glue down the big mcpcb. This way nothing spins when tightening down the bezel. I think I’ve only made a few dozen of em but this has grown to be my base method and proves out most reliable for less re-do’s. Just my take on it though.
If you’re hard core on getting every last bit out of the light, you’ll need a couple of 35mm UCLp lenses from flashlightlens.com.
A trick I’ve learned. When building from a host be sure to place a bare mcpcb on the emitter shelf and use the reflector, o-ring, glass lens and assemble it snug. Leave it a day if you have the time. This will make the red o-ring stick to the glass lens. The reflector is made with a ramping shelf that pushes the o-ring out against the sides of the head so that it seals in two planes. This is important to maintain water resistance when going to the triple. Then be careful to leave the glass and o-ring in place when you build the triple, the optic will then seat against the o-ring and all will be perfect. The o-ring will still be in position for the optic to squeeze it against the side of the bezel for a seal there. With the air gap between the glass and optic it works out well. If you put the o-ring on the outside of the glass, such that the glass is against the optic, it’ll make little contact rainbows of interference between the polycarbonate and glass.