Oh yeah, when gluing the mcpcb down give it a minute or two for the epoxy to start setting up then use a toothpick to gently get the adhesive out of the optic holes on the mcpcb so it’ll sit properly. 
Hey Dale, would you happen to know if the Astrolux and the X6 are the same dimensions?
I am hoping to take the innards out of the SS Astrolux and put them into the EE X6 host and then use the SS Astrolux as a host for my triple build using the X6 heat sink from Nitro.
Do you think that will work?
This is the Astrolux I scored for $35 shipped with the promo code 2ae5a1
Thanks!
You’re gonna have to hide the 30Q’s too.
I’m Broke so I have to spend other peoples money.
The only “innards” you’ll need are the driver and emitter/mcpcb. Everything else is supplied with the Eagle Eye X6 host.
And yes, the big copper pill section of the Astrolux is ideal for a triple, plenty of heat sink mass there for sure! The Astrolux is build different in the reflector area as the reflector is threaded where the EE X6 is not. But that won’t matter to your triple build as the spacer/heat sink is the same. Use Richard’s driver in the triple, the Astrolux Bistro driver will probably act up if you’re asking for that much power from it, something to do with the ATTiny25 MCU.
I use Kester 63/37 Rosin core Lead Tin PbSn, 0.025in is whats on my roll, It’s old, no metric.
Get the Solder Wick from ME and the thermal adhesive. Solder Wick can help clean your mess but I also use it to bypass the tail SW springs.
You will need Good Tweezers to hold the wires while soldering. I got these from Amazon for $8 set
Marrywindix Tweezers 6-piece ESD Precision Anti-static Tweezers Stainless Steel Tweezers With a Bag for Electronics Jewelry-making
I also use a LED lighted Magnifying glass that stands up and is adjustable. That is something I Need.
And something like this SE MZ101B Helping Hand with Magnifying Glass
I usually Solder the MCPCB to the copper spacer in my S2 triples and the copper spacer to the pill. Thermal adhesive works too. The paste needs to heat up and melt in order to solder the heavy spacer. I use a hot plate as an Iron don’t cut it. You would need the past if you want to reflow emitters to the MCPCB. Anyway I got this stuff, No Clean SnPb Leaded Solder Paste 15 Grams
Also optional is a Flux pen. MG Chemicals 835-P Rosin Flux Pen
I use the flux pen on everything before I solder it, even though the solder has flux. No clean stuff is nice to use too.
Yup, spending your money… Again.
The one tool I use the most, over all my tweezers and such, is a pair of mosquito curved jaw hemostats. I depend on em. So much so that when I broke one of the jaws I had to go on ebay and find more as soon as possible. My wife had given me the pair I used, a reject from the hospital. I have short straight jaw pairs of stats and use the more rugged one to hold the pcb in when soldering wires on and such, but the curved ones I use for most everything else. These are 5 1/2 ” and my mainstay.
My Hakko 888 soldering station made it possible for me to solder. I sucked at it before that! lol So it’s the little things you pick up along the way, the learning curve I suppose.
Forgot to mention that I ordered 6 30Q’s thanks to you as well!
I hope they ship to Canada OK. I imagine they wouldn’t have let me check out if they won’t ship. I used Paypal so the risk is minimal I guess. It worked out to about $5 a cell!!!
LOL, I got 8 more 30Q’s on the way and they can’t get here fast enough! (Need to count cells, I think I have close to 300)
Good Lord man!
This hobby is addictive Dude!
I have over 160 lights, all standing ready to be put to use and virtually all modified. 
(actually, I need to count em, probably over 170 and at least 2 on the way even now… oops! make that 3! Thrunite TN42, Nitecore TM03, Nitecore MH20GT)
My wife loves me! No complaints from her whatsoever on the lights. (maybe other things, but not the lights. )
+1 …. That’s the truth!!! … :person_facepalming: … :money_mouth_face:
My horse don’t pull, I always seem to have the cart (loaded with flashlights) up front….
Bear Bryant was obviously NOT a flashaholic! 
Sorry, is it Arctic Alumina™ Thermal Adhesive or compound that I want? And this is to attach the emitter/mcpcb to the heatsink right?
I really need to see a build thread but I haven’t been able to find one…
You just need a bigger horse, one from Alabama.
Ole Bear didn’t need a light… it just kinda glowed around him without one. I think that ‘glow’ started started back in 54 at “Camp Junction”, his first year at A&M; and just got brighter as the years went on. 
That’s my thoughts anyway……….
Get Adhesive it’s glue type. DB mentioned earlier about keeping the triple parts in place as you screw it together.
Compound does not dry, well it dries out over a few years. Mostly used in PC heatsinks
FWIW: I got tracking and acceptance on My 8X 30Q’s Yippieeeee
Nice one! And thanks again for the pointer to the SS+Copper Astrolux. I love the look of that light!
Be aware that the SS/Cu light is a chunky monkey. We have people here that couldn’t/wouldn’t carry it around due to it’s weight.
I personally like a light to have some heft to it, even adding as much copper as possible to improve this. Personal preference, just like (but opposite of course) those that like a balsa wood light. Just saying it’s something to consider is all.
I like heft too. I know it’s not true at all but my brain equates heft with quality. I don’t expect the Astrolux triple to be my pocket EDC, it will probably sit beside the back door and it may go into the Molly webbing if my backpack.
I guess my question is Will I be able to use the heat sink from Nitro in the Astrolux? I am sure once I get a flashlight in my hand and take one apart I’ll understand so much more about what goes where.
Remember I ordered my first flashlights (S2 and EE x2) about 2 weeks ago and still don’t even have one in hand yet… So sorry for all the questions.
You’ll see the Light when you get your Flashlight.
Me, Today… Blinded by light!
