Anyone know the thread pitch/size of the switch area?
Remind me tonight and I'll measure it.
It’s tonight already!
It's 15:00 here. haha. I think it's 17:00 in AU.
15?, 17?, unless your in uniform here we don’t have numbers over 12 and in an hour we start over at 1. Someone else will have to pass on the reminder then as I’m off to slzzzzz
15=3 in afternoon. Just minus 12. Good night.
Thought I’d offer an update on the switch.
Thanks Rey, I got the new switch and retaining rings through last week. 
Sadly 
the retaining rings are just a tad too small. They appear to screw into the body, but when you apply pressure on the switch the rings just jump threads and fall out.
My first thought was to modify the old switch assembly. I took it apart and was left with this:
I think this has potential. I did assemble it as is, but it’s just a little too deep and didn’t really work correctly.
However if someone wanted to drill the centre hole out a bit and shorten it, I think it would work perfectly.
That said, my solution (as I don’t currently have access to a vice), was to remove the switch retaining ring from one of my BLF SE X6’s. These are just a fraction wider and fit the BLF Ti perfectly.
I also fitted the included rubber switch boot that came with the BLF Ti originally. The switch sits almost perfectly, it will tail stand, just with a slight wobble. But the switch requires quite a heft to “click” on or off. But mode switching works well. The switch is smooth and has solved the flickering and poor performance I was getting.
Assembly is:
—Ti button—
—Ti retainer—
—rubber boot—
—washer—
—new switch—
—X6 retaining ring—
I fitted the X6 retaining ring the wrong way up, so that the indents point down, this allowed me to adjust it from inside the body tube without the need to remove the rest of the switch assembly.
Final position was the Ti retainer screwed in as far as it would go. And the X6 retainer a couple of threads up from the bottom of the threaded area.
I fitted the new retaining ring Rey supplied in the X6 tail cap, you can see clearly that it is smaller is it will wiggle from side to side in the threads, however luckily it seems it’s just big enough not to fall through and jump threads like it did on the Ti.
good idea, if the ring that Rey has sent (not arrived yet) does not fit, i will make a retainer out of the old switch.
Thanks for the great update. 
Ok. I forgot and RBD forgot to PM me to remind me. 
I just cannot get the switch setup right. I was hoping the new switch would be better, but it actually seems worse.
The only arrangement that kind of works is the original switch, but even w that if I screw the body together tight the light goes into some kind of low blink mode or doesn’t turn on at all.
I’ve tried w various rubber buttons etc. but then the tailcap switch gets bottomed out and won’t click.
Any suggestion???
Edit I use an ld-2 driver.
I didn’t have this sort of trouble with mine though I did have to adjust the switch depth in the tube to account for all the other layers and I use them all(switch, rubber button cap, Ti button cap, o-ring, and Ti retainer) and it still screws in far enough to tail stand. I think the critical thing is trimming the rubber button cap cylinder to just the right length so that it engages but doesn’t preload the switch. Cut too much and it can’t flex enough, cut too little and it preloads the switch which happens to be a reverse clicky and opens the circuit. I’ll try and take some pics but not sure if they’ll show what’s critical. At this point my plan is to cut the original alu switch housing into just a retainer and use that to hold the mini omten up against the rest of the tail parts. It means destroying the stock switch but it’s egg breaking time now.
I never got the original switch to work well, but I didn’t try very hard because people here had reported difficulties. It would have needed mods anyway, like a better spring. So I took the switch and retainer from a BLF X6, cut a boot to the right size and shape, and now it works great. However, it took a few tries to get it just right.
From what I can tell the rubber button pin needs to be trimmed for the stock switch but is too short for the omten.
Cut the pillar and edge of the rubber cap, might help.
Removing the lip would work and probably still seal well enough though not as well as with the lip intact.
I don’t know if you remember, but I never got a rubber boot, either with the original BLF TI or with the new switch. I’ve tried a couple of rubber boots I have, but so far, either they can’t click or it locks the button. I’ve spent many, many frustrating hours trying to get something to work reliably. As I said, I can get the original switch, with no rubber boot to kind of work sometimes, but if I screw the light together too tight, it goes into a low blink (again this is with an LD-2 driver).
I have one button that lost the lip because I had pull it out of an old light from the back, so maybe I can try your suggestion (I don’t remember if I tried cutting the lip AND the nub at the same time). With what you’re suggesting, are you talking about doing that with the ORIGINAL switch assembly, or with the new one?
Here a few things I'd do.
1.Use a shorter unprotected 18650.
2.Make a soler on driver negative pole instead of spring.
3.Cut the switch spring a little.
4.Pull out the SS retainer a little, give up the tailstand.
4.Remove the rubber, the metal button can also touch the switch.
Sorry for the trouble.
Hi,
With the original switch the way I have it, unprotected works, but sometimes, if I screw the body together tight, the light stops working but instead of turning on, it gives this low level blinking. I haven’t been able to figure out what might be causign that
Re. 2) I already have removed the spring from the driver and replaced with a solid nub.
Re. 3) I can try cutting the spring, but what is the reasoning for doing that? Is it that you’re worried that the spring may be falling sideways and touching the body?
Re. 4) That might be the last resort. It’s not even that I mind losing tailstanding, but I think the light looks better without the switch sticking out, plus less chance of it turning on by mistake.
Re. 5) Which “rubber” are you talking about?
BTW, sorry if I sound like I’m complaining. I actually really like the light with the LD-2 and triple XP-L, and I think it’s quite beautiful, but I just wish I could make it work more reliably.
Later, and thanks,
Jim
Hi Jim,
I'm the one who should be sorry, lack of experience and made an unperfect light. Appreciate your loving the light and feedback.
Just got a pic from JohnnyMac, he found a new way.
Actually I dont quite under this due to my bad English and imagination.
You can PM him or I can send you more conversation between him and I.
Regards,
Rey
