Great suggestions guys. I am having battery fitment issues too. I end up going as short as possible in the head (I use a super flat spring when I use the retaining ring).
I’ll ream out the threaded area at a later date.
200 Grit is suggested?
200 will work to remove material but I suggest you get a sheet of 400 to finish it and lube it with water to get a nicer finish(also keeps the dust down).
P. The way I do it is to cut a full length strip from the sheet the width of what I want to remove and section the strip into lengths that will wrap 1 1/2 times around my improvised sanding drum. Make sure the tape wrap is in a direction that won’t wad up when you spin it. Keep a rag handy to spin the paper against to remove the debris that clogs the grit and when one end of the paper wears smooth, take it off and turn it end for end. When both ends are worn swap in a new section. As material is removed add 1/2”–1” pieces of tape underneath the sandpaper to keep it snug and cutting evenly. Be prepared to spend some time with this, it’s not fast but it is even and accurate. Don’t forget a glove on the hand holding the light. The tape also wears and loses tack so occasionally a new end is needed as well.
Are these still for sale? How much did they cost?
It was $60 for host with 18650 extension, plus a bit for shipping depending on method.
I think they are still for sale.
$60 isn’t bad, but that’s unfortunate that it was just the host. There were no op ions for completed lights?
He mentioned in the switch thread that he’s working on getting it built with a BLFDD driver.
This light isn’t a difficult build, but the switch is pretty finicky. I replaced the switch on mine and cannibalized a retaining ring from a BLF X6 since it’s the only type which seems to fit. It still required some careful adjustment, but it works well now.
The Rey BLF Ti (in 18350 form, with clip, FET+1 driver, and triple Nichia 219B) is now my favorite EDC light. I hope the kickstarter thing for a pre-built version will go well.
If you are capable of assembling a small Lego model, then the BLF Ti is no more difficult IMO.
Right. At least if you know how to solder Legos.. ;)
Hi,
I know that this is a hard question to answer, but how much sanding are we talking about? I just got the two-stone cylinder hone I mentioned and have been trying it on just the extension tube for awhile now (with a drill obviously) and it doesn’t seem to be removing any material at all :(…
Jim
A cylinder hone is meant for polishing out fine scratches otherwise I might use one. My cells fit the tube so I don’t know how much you need to remove but I’ve spent an hour taking out 1mm of copper using the sandpaper method.
Ok, thanks. I’ll need to think about that (if it’s worth the time)…
Jim
Hi,
I got one trit (for the tail switch button) but haven’t glued it in because I didn’t have any of that Norland stuff.
I have one of these coming in, tomorrow I hope:
and I heard/hope that this can be used to glue the trit. Has anyone used this with a trit? Do I just put the trit into the indentation in the tailcap switch button and then put some of this glue into the slot?
Thanks,
Jim
Interesting, never heard of that glass glue before.
I’d suggest putting a small amount in the tail groove then laying the tritium vial into it. It doesn’t need to be fully submerged in glue. I hope it doesn’t actually melt the glass.
I’ve been wondering a similar question about the head trits though. How much glue do people use there? Just a dab in the deepest part of the hole? A dot of glue at both ends? Run glue all along the groove? I don’t want to make a mess with the glue; before it cures it runs about as freely as vegetable oil.
I’ll post after I’ve tried it. I’ve seen some comments on Amazon reviews mentioning that some have said that it turns a little yellowish when it dries/cures, but the one trit I have should be yellow, so I figured it’d be ok :)…
Thanks,
Jim
I have not installed my trits yet, but what I will do is: a drop of Norland in the deepest part, place the trits, cure. Then,while tailstanding, check with one trit-hole if a small drop of Norland applied from top runs along to the groove or stays in the upper part of the hole. If it stays there: cure, if not, place the light tail up on a glass plate and apply a bit of Norland via the first groove.
Hi,
That glass glue seems to work ok, at least on the straight recess. I used a toothpick and put a drop into the recessed area first, and then dropped the trit into the area. I also put another drop on top. The glue is very liquid, so it spreads by itself quickly:
EDIT: Package says that it sets in 15 seconds, then let it alone for an hour and then complete cure overnight.
I believe norland is the preferred glue for trits because other adhesives can become discolored with time and heat.
I greatly prefer norland because it is sometimes reversible. Heat (boiling water) softens it enough to remove. That said, it doesn’t always work well. I changed the tail trit in mine but when I tried to change the head trits I broke like 3 or 4. Ouch.
I put a drop on top (I use a toothpick) and cure it to hold the trit down and seal the opening. This doesn’t work perfectly and you sometimes get norland leaking into the channel below. Then I fill the hole and cure it. It’s slow and painful but works fairly well. Be careful and make sure the trit is fully seated in the bottom for the first cure. I found it often rises up into the norland and must be pressed down. It’s a real pain. A bunch of mine had to be redone because of this. Go slow and be Careful.