Battery in positive first? Negative to tail cap.
No plastic shipping insulators on either end?
Yep, no insulator and battery in head first. I suppose battery connection must be the issue if it works when charging cable is connected.
Your driver should have a spring on it, so button top is not necessary. It accepts a wide range of lengths and a protected button top should fit fine.
Is the end of the main tube bare metal? That’s what contacts the wound spring in the tail cap to complete the circuit. Check to see if it’s screwing down enough. I can turn my tail cap just a little to lock it out since the threads are anodized. I get a small confirmation blink from the led when the cap is screwed all the way down and battery contact is first made.
Unique problem. Looks like battery have no contact. But how is it possible? 
@ J4ck:
Had a similar problem with mine. Dry threads. Greasing the tailcap so that it actually makes contact when fully screwed down fixed the problem.
One way to check if it’s an issue with the tailcap is to bridge the end of the battery and the body tube with something conductive, rather than using the tailcap.
If the light operates as expected while doing so, it’s a contact issue there.
Should the body tube not reach the metal contacts in the tailcap even when fully screwed in, perhaps you could lift up that spring/contact piece by placing a metal/plastic disc under it?
Or if you push down your battery and find it cannot sit below or at least flush with the edge of the light, you may need a shorter battery.
There have been versions of these lights that have been known to have these issues . the answer is just to tighten up the end caps fully .
Clean lube and fully tighten solves the problem . Using a paper clip to bridge the end of the cell and the edge of the body ..if the light works like that then you know the problem is in the tailcap or the connection to the body to the tailcap . Simple .
Here's a link to a $8.99 D25 on sale on amazon right now
Hello sir.
Where i can buy this driver.
Because my d10 driver is broket
Can i buy this driver mr quadrupel.
How can i buy it
I need this driver
Soooooo, I’m confused. You need the driver or something?
You will need to send him a private message (PM) so you can discuss cost and shipping. Click the [Send PM] button under his name.
Can you explain what the problem is with your driver?
Today I wanted to finish my mod with this headlamp (because I waited over 3 months for my convoy h1 driver to arrive).
I sanded the triple SST-20 3500k led (and spacers and optics to correct size).
Baked the light to a nice brown color
Created spacer for the e-switch
When I thought I was finished my project the driver said poof
The silicone wire from driver to led shorted out in the battery compartment. I will now abandon the project, because I think it’s a really bad host when led wires are inside a battery compartment. Lessons learned, I will not burn my house down with this host.
Is anyone still using theirs after owning it a long time?
D10, D25, RJ02, got ’em slung on doorknobs for when I need ’em.
I’m going to get one and put a nice LED in it, as a beater and for close-up soldering work and whatnot. I didn’t realize they were this cheap. It’s still only $7 from the online shop I usually buy from. That’s ridiculous!
Absolutely, still using mine since I got it 3 years ago: Boruit Headlamp Review D10
Stock would’ve been just fine, but I like to modify to make it even better.
I still have mine and use it for soldering. I put a nice neutral white led so I can properly identify wire colors for automotive work.
Awesome! Putting my order in now. Probably will put a 219b or 519a inside for CRI. Seems like an insane deal…