Wurrkos when will you do a copper version?
“thanks, we will consider produce some copper one once sold out the brass version”
Come on 11/11 shoppers buy out all the brass like the Americans I want a penny light!
The minus green filter certainly is noticeable and appears to produce a very nice tint. The only reason why I haven’t gotten a TS10 yet is due to the non-negative DUV tint, which clearly makes me a tint snob since it’s such an incredible flashlight for the money. :person_facepalming:
If it’s non-negative it sure doesn’t look overly positive, on either the 6000K or the 4000K. I think I prefer the 4000K but if they brought out a 5000 I’d jump on that. For as cool white as the 6000K is/should be, the tint and color rendition is pretty remarkable…actually surprised me a lot and even though it’s a higher temp it looks much whiter and “cleaner” than just about any other neutral white emitter I’ve seen. The optic may help a little with that but the light quality from these little things is just very nice. If you can come down here slummin’ with the rest of us, I don’t think you’ll regret spending your dollars. 
Thanks for the reply Correllux!
For me, I’m still in the delight of the dedomed 519A LED tints. Looking forward to dedoming some 5000K 519As when they come soon. So far I’ve dedomed 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, and 4500K varieties and every one has been amazing!
And before the 519As, I got all all 219B varieties. And many quad E17As too.
Don’t get me wrong, I have plenty of non-negative DUV flashlights. But if I’m going to add another pre-made EDC flashlight to my collection, it needs to have high CRI and great tint. BUT that also indicates that I already have too many flashlights.
All of my 519s remain domed but I have a 5700 that I bought with the intent of dedoming…waiting for the right muse. Sure is a nice emitter.
You said too many flashlights…………
4000K here, and it’s beautiful, not a hint of green that I can tell. In fact, it’s a nice peachy color.
Looking now… white towel, paper-towel, envelopes, top of a box of QTips… yep, nothing but peachy goodness.
Already bought 3 brass ts10, I cannot help anymore on depleting brass inventory hehe
Amazon code doesn’t work USA ?
I have an FWAA with SST-20 4000k. Comparing side-by-side, the CCT is very close. I’d say the FWAA has slightly more warmth. I do not notice any greenish coloration between the two. On high, the FWAA has a very diffused beam, while the TS10 has a more prominent hotspot that looks to be more neutral, maybe 4500k+? The TIR looks slightly larger, with a larger center over each LED, so that may explain it. Certainly looks like the TS10 edges out the FWAA in throw. But not by a huge margin.
FWAA bezel, fits the TS10:
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FWAA is very floody, I like the TS10 beam better:
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I like both TS10 LEDs, they have very neutral Tint duv
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imho, a Titanium TS10 would be a Great Idea!
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^ Nice comparisons, jon. Very cool to see the FWAA bezel fits on the TS10! For FWAA, do you have SST-20 4000k in copper and Nichia 219c 4000k in titanium?
:sunglasses:
need update new code, which color you like ?
4000k orange aux
I did my part already! Now you just have to convince 87 others……
I’d also be interested in that code too, please. Red aux and 4000k, if possible. But if only a code for orange aux is available I’d take that too if that’s easier.
And this is for the Red body color on the US Amazon, I’m assuming?
Looks like a cool light. This would be my second Wurkkos so I’m excited.
here is a tutorial:
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/u8t6x2/how_to_flash_firmware_on_the_sp10_pro_photos_at/
be patient with yourself, it took me many many hours to learn how to reflash… I hope it is easier for you than it was for me…
here is the gchart firmware repository
https://ghart.com/blf/firmware/hex_files/sofirn_anduril2/
For the TS10, I use the one called anduril.2022-07-19.wurkkos-ts10.hex
I cant guarantee you wont brick your light… imo the biggest risk would be to get the wrong pogo to touch the wrong pad… I have killed 2 lights, but Im special… lol
to avoid problems I recommend you clamp the pogo key to the light, not just hold it freehand. My reflashes take 5 minutes, I cant hold still that long… other people claim its done in 10 seconds, but, we all use different computers…
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good luck!