I’d MUCH prefer the shorter body size. I could care less about different levels on a light like this. With it super long like the above setup - I wouldn’t have any interest.
Keeping it a small as possible and while still offering 10-15min runtime, don’t need any more than - that’s the winning combo for me.
Perhaps there’s a way to make it have extension tubes similar to the tk75? So people can have two or three to their liking?
Wayne,
Have you considered making a body like the Polarion or the Apex? That way you could use side by side batteries or even LiPo packs like the ones used in RC vehicles, and be more portable.
Thank you for all the feedback.
I’m thinking right now, (and it hurts 
). I’m considering ways to have multiple modes. Not ruling out anything right now. I’m also considering how to do multiple modes with the short body. Perhaps in the tail cap? Maybe the momentary button could instead be a dial to spin and select brightness mode? Just thinking………………
Wayne
With this much power and size one mode (high) should be the main goal, and cooling etc. EDC’s need multi levels. This is a Holy Sh*t light! That said I like the side switch. Single mode, beefed up cooling, single momentary side switch for io to board…
Having a dial that varies the output from 0 - 100% would be great. Could be behind the head or in the tailcap. Also, 3 groups of 3 or even 4 parallel 18650s in series wouldn’t be that much wider but would provide a lot more run time.
Oh it would absolutely need modes. I personally think it looks more balanced with the longer tube of the two buttons.
Could you get 6 IMR 18650 wired up to power 3 MG-T2 and keep it a smaller light. I really think the Bruiser lights need to be kept small to be more unassuming… And maybe the 2 switches in the tail of the light.
Could you compromise with one switch? Maybe use the tailcap for ON/OFF and a resistor in the switch to determine low/high. Then you can still turn on in low or high and it keeps it at a reasonable length.
Infinite variable ring around the collar, 4 x18650, short body and silver like the first pic is best!
A battery carrier could fix the length issue. The diameter of the handle would be larger, but you could make it have 2 flat sides, similar to the light posted above.
First off, I do appreciate all the comments. There is a variance in our ideas of what a flashlight like this should be, and if I had the budget to do so I’d probably build something along the lines of each suggestion. But like everyone else (well, most everyone) I have a limited budget and can only produce one design, at a time. This post is just to confirm I am reading your posts, even though I may or may not specifically answer your post.
Personally, I like the short and simple (and bright) concept, which is how I’ve designed many of my flashlights in the past. However, I do see the value of multi-level brigtness as it does give more flexibility and usefulness to a flashlight.
Hmmmmmm………
I personally think the 2 mode design is a good compromise between features, complexity, and cost.
2 of the more powerful lights I’ve owned were a Fenix TK70 and a Thrunite TN30. Both had several modes, but I almost always used either the highest or lowest output.
Here’s a shot from the front:
I’m sorta thinkin’ that I could go with two models: 1) one as the short version with twisty on/off/momentary, 2)Two switch version with high/low.
Wayne
Looks like there is room in there for a couple more! Lol, just teasing. Looks great so far.
I've been thinking about this light a lot... well not a lot, but some, while playing with my bruiser last night. So a design suggestion... make holes in the head, and the tailcap somewhere, so a shoulder strap can be used. The way this light looks, it could be kind of a pain to carry, if you have to carry it for a while.
Also a thought... this is anathema to the "more power, more light at any costs" philosophy, but it would be kind of nice to be able to run the light without worrying that it can overheat.
Is there any way to build in overheat protection into this monster?
My current approach to lights overheating, is if it's uncomfortable to hold... I turn it off.
I have made a Kong-12 with holes in it for shoulder strap, used a computer bag strap, worked great. I don’t know if this light is that big to need it, but, certainly this is easy to do.
I don’t think this light will need a thermal protection circuit. I’ll do a run time test and see how warm it gets. The head alone with the heat sink is around 2 pounds, overall weight is around 3 pounds, really a lot of mass and surface area for cooling. Kong-12 and Kong-21, do not overheat, but of course, they are a lot bigger. Bruiser-9000 has a head that is 3.5” diameter and 4” long, really a lot bigger than the Big Bruiser.
Sorry for no beam shots yet, I still have the flashlight all in pieces all over my desk. 
I’ll try and get some soon. Anyway, tonight it’s raining like crazy here where I live (rain in Oregon? Go figure.)
Wayne
The shorter design weighs 3 pounds without batteries. Has to have mass to sink the heat.
Wayne
I’m measuring about 45,600 lumens at 1 meter. Will do a few beam shots tonight if it isn’t raining.
I have figured out a way to have several levels of brightness, by spinning the body. I need to buy a few high power resistors for this, low power can be around 1000 lumens, high power 9000+ lumens. Might be able to do three levels, maybe.
Have not made a decision as to the longer body or not. It would be a good option, some might not mind the length, and would make for a more versatile flashlight. However, to me it becomes less like a Bruiser.
Wayne
The shorter is the better. Also, xml2 should be not as hot as xml, shouldn’t they?