C8 addicts thread

Your kidding right? You're not being serious I hope??

Of course you won't get 30-45 mins of continuous 100 kcd+ throw, but I've gotten 135 kcd on a C8 with a de-domed XP-G2. This was before the latest S2 bin, before FET drivers, before I realized that the XR-E C8 reflectors are the best for throw, and before the new 2500 mAh 18650 hot low resistance cells came out.

I suggest reading the previous posts in this thread before making that claim, since several people have gotten significantly more than 100 kcd.

just realise its a hk based website , ok i will look into it , btw is there any good mod accessory from this link ?

I’m going to guess that the centering rings used in those lights were the limiting factor in the readings, especially in the dedomed emitters. Except for the mtg2, that thing is a beast.

Yeah…those images from the link above…big ol’ wad of massive light…wow!

I kinda liked the XM-L hotspot even though it was more spread out…the XP-G2 definitely had a much tighter hotspot!

I re-tested my Convoy C8 with a de-domed XP-G2 R5 1A at 4.0A, XPG SMO reflector, AR lens, and got a solid 130 kcd on a fresh Efest 35A cell.

Dale's thread (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/23736) referred to above was using the stock Convoy C8 reflector which is OP - worse type for throw. Also, I don't believe he did any focus tweaking - it was not his intention to get the best throw, it wasn't the point of the tests he was doing. SMO is the only choice for serious throw, and in the C8 class, the XRE SMO reflector has proven to be the best for throw - comfy pointed this out and I confirmed it in my own testing.

I still haven’t gotten the focus tweaked quite right, I haven’t put on an anti-reflective lens, my emitter still has a little bit of dome on one corner, and it’s running at a maximum of 2.8A, but my modded BLF C10 (UltraFire) gets 86 kcd. When I tweak the focus manually with my fingers (especially with the lens off) it gets like 15% more throw, but the lens is cheap and I can never keep the focus quite right while I tighten the bezel.

Regardless, it’s a really nice item to have during night-time adventures. It lets me see about as far as the TK75 I used to have, but without the extra bulk and weight.

Sorry, I didn’t think it was possible ! So many post with very different numbers. I’m impressed you can get such throw from such a small light, the stock Olight SR90 or the TN31 only does 110kcd ?! Seem impossible or the numbers are wrong somewhere…

BTW is the hotspot still use-able with a dedome XP-G2 ?

De-doming doubles the kcd, maybe little better than double -- that's the single most important factor. De-doming a TN31 also doubles it's throw, combined with increasing amps you get 400-500 kcd from a TN31 with a de-domed XM-L2 U2. Now the comparison is a more on a level playing field...

Maybe add a layer of kapton or one of RMM’s thin isolation discs to maintain proper spacing?

Once dedomed is it possible to adjust the focus to get rid of the donut or is that pretty much inevitable?

Depends on the size/shape of reflector and the distance from the object. The big reflectors are always going to have some donut hole at about 12-18 inches, but if you're seeing a donut hole at 24-36 inches you usually need to get the emitter further up into the reflector. On most dedomed C8s I try and get the donut hole to disappear at 18" or less. On these dedomed lights getting super flat wire connections is really important and some reflectors need to be shaved a bit on the backside for clearance.

On the XinTD C8 reflector I can get it flush and focused right if I get the wire solder connections really flat, cut the top half of the insulation off the wires, then stick a 3M gasket in between. On the Small Sun ZY-T08 I generally have to also shave the bottom/edges of the reflector to gain enough clearance to get it right. I also end up reflowing two MCPCBs together on that one to get enough thickness to provide good pressure and height on the MCPCB when installed.

Each reflector is a bit different so you've got to play with it a bit to figure out what it likes. The one I was never able to get looking pretty was a dedomed XP-G2 in a SMO P60 reflector...I spent at least an hour trying to tune it in and it got to being acceptable but never quite right.

  1. Both lights, especially SR90 is “mildly” driving its LED. (Most folks here are no mercy with their LED lol)
  2. They are not using XM-L2. Think the newer TN31 is using XM-L2 now and its lux number has increased to 150kcd stock.
  3. As what Tom said - dedome is the key.

Forget the TN31… the TN32 gets about 240 kcd stock without even removing the dome. Make one simple(ish) mod and it’ll get roughly twice that. This is one of the only stock lights which overdrives its emitter as much as modders at BLF do. :slight_smile:

What is the best position for a dedomed XM-L2 in a hd2010? I don’t have a lightmeter (I’m too cheap) :), but I’d like a well focused light. Any tips?

Just shove it as close to the reflector as you can, I think :slight_smile:

Generally same thing - must be low as possible. The HD2010 has a couple of issues - large flat reflector bottom (bad for wires), and if you tighten the pill down, the reflector wont' fit tight up on the star. It's a PIA to get right, but worth it, since the HD2010 is such a great thrower. You can loosen the pill a bit, get your wire connections as flat as possible as RMM described, can file down the LED alignment piece if it's a thick one, and last option is very risky; sand/file/dremel down the back of the reflector just enough to get a little more clearance for the wires.

Other ideas:

- use an o-ring just above the pill threads to keep the pill up higher when tightened (may interfere with having a good ground)

- fiddle with lens (thicker one?), maybe add an o-ring by the bezel/lens to increase thickness, etc.

- use a thin disc (copper?) under the star to raise the height of the LED

There are more things I'm sure - might need for time/tools etc.

Yeah, I ended up grinding on the reflector a bit with mine. Whenever the lights need a bit more space I end up reflowing two MCPCBs together (with the bottom MCPCB sanded down to bare copper). This is probably wasteful vs. using a copper disc, but they are already the correct size and are flat on the bottom, so it is convenient which is what I care about vs. saving $1. I just put solder paste in between the the two, heat, then clamp flat.

I just found this OP XR reflector on fasttech I’d never seen before, is it a new addition? I got the SMO version looking for a little more throw but the rings are horrible and since then I’ve gave away the light I swapped my old standard OP reflector out with so I can’t change back. Does it offer any intensity increase over the standard OP XP/XM reflector?

OP's are worse for throw, so don't think anyone would be interested in measuring/comparing throw from an OP.