This is what it looks like now.
That looks right for an m10. Mine though are really sharp till you ramp the driver up. It’s hard to explain but shining on a white wall, it brightens, then the hotspot blurs as you hit max, but at that point its intense enough to be disorientating.
Well, I will replace both driver and emitter (Either U3 1C or T6 3C, cant find any xm-l2´s) soon, hope it will be better than this:
& it gives some off the ‘bigger boys’ a run for their money…. 
That is ironic. My Uniquefire UF-2180 (the exact same light by all accounts) pulled about 3 amps at the tailcap when I did the readings about a year ago. I did a mini review in the 26650 forum quite a while back, it was at the bottom of the 3rd page. Linky to it: Mini Review: UniqueFire UF-2180
Solarstorm where did you buy your M10 from?
holy mackeral, that m10 is a beast! ah man, i wish i got that instead of the blf edition a8 now. i was trying to choose between the two, and since i read soooo many people bought the a8, i went that route instead.
from looking at these pictures, that m10 looks waaaay brighter and bigger hotspot than the a8.
or is it only the gords edition m10 that is bright, and stock is pretty weak?
so everyone that has gords mod sent their light to England?
Mod on his thousand post giveaway…
There’s only two gords edition m10’s in existence at the moment.
It’s pretty easy to do, let me find my build thread.
I wouldn’t feel bad about the blf a8. It’s a damm good light. There will be m10’s available any time you want one, the blf a8 won’t be available for long at all.
Gords, you could do the same mod to the A8 that you did to Dale’s M10 also right? It looks light it would hot a little quicker though with a little less mass in the head area.
I bought it from ebay, seller cyberport
I think there’s room for the driver from what I remember, so yeah if you got a standard a8 you could, it would warm up, there are few hosts that wouldn’t if left on for long enough.
I’d like to get that driver in an hd2010 to be honest, or a zy-t08, something with a big reflector.
I got an A8 on the way - it's a more of a flooder compared to an M10, looks like. That M10 mod you did Gords looks very well described - should be easy to do.
Tom, its a 20 minute mod, honestly its ridiculous how easy it is, you’ll love it.
AGREED
It seems like some of the Keygos lights purchased from ebay are not the genuine article and are a little under driven where as the ones purchased from Keygos.com are very bright. Possibly even over driven. For me that is not really an issue since my lights are usually not on for over a couple of minutes at a time.
Dont think its fake, at least the seller has a good reputation (BLF members bought from him before), and the light it self looks genuine, maybe the driver its fake, but not the host (I believe)
My DMM leads are made by me, used copper wire, arround 3mm diameter, so i think the readings are correct. The light is powered by 1 Panasonic NCR18650 2900mAh protected, bought from DX.
Do your M10 original driver and pill look like this??
That looks like the two I’ve pulled apart, mine came from cwtco and redlog (i think) but they all seem to pull about 2.5a. Given the size of the pill/heft of the light, I feel this is woefully conservative, particularly when you have a 26650 behind it.
You see the brass retaining ring, the I’d of that is almost 17mm, get a 4.2v 17mm driver, a little sanding of the driver/scraping of the id of the ring and your ready to screw the ring back in, push the driver in place and solder to the ring. Dead easy, nanjg 3.04a, intloutdoor 4a no problems.
I am on Fasttech´s website ordering a 10 pack of 7135 chips and a couple of xml’s, 1 u3 1c and 1 t6 3c. Gords, which thermal paste should I buy? I am thinking about Fujik, not sure about glue or compound….