Hey there, Using coffee whisker to make coffee taste even better than it normally is as it is mixes and blends well. Had only 1 in thge kitchen and it got it's switch malfunctioning. Specifically mechanism responsible for connecting and disconnecting leads that transfer energy. Photos would tell more:
Any suggestion except throwing this one out and buying new one? All other parts are operational and buying new would mean exporting from US to my country. Thanks.
Well, you can’t really expect to get far without soldering iron! As per switches, you can find them in your local electronic stores I am sure or if you have 10+years old PC this switches were used as power on and reset buttons…
1- Determine the current path through the switch.
2- Bridge the terminals which connect when “on” to create a permanent path
3- Now the plug is your switch- it comes on the moment you plug it in and goes off when you unplug it.
Not the handiest fix but a workable one till you get a replacement switch. The clock and control circuit went out in my coffee-maker so I ran the cord through the thermal fuses directly into the heating coils and used it that way for about 3 more years. It’s still ready for use when the new one finally gives up the ghost.
From your pics it looks like the switch assembly connects via 2 push-on connectors and nowhere else- is that correct?
If so all you need is a strip of metal like the tabs on the switch assembly. Put it into one connector, slip the other connector onto it, wrap with tape so it doesn’t short or shock, then reassemble after testing. Brass is best for the strip, copper next, then clean steel. Match width and thickness of the existing tabs as close as you can- fold thin metal to make thicker- as long as the fit is tight it should be fine.
You might find a toggle or push-button switch with tabs already on it at a auto parts store, a better no-soldering-needed alternative if there’s space inside for it. These are commonly used for accessory lights etc on cars. Check with auto repair shops, car/truck junkyards, electrical supply distributors, TV/Radio repair shops, look at junk electronics- somewhere a usable switch will show up for a few bucks at most. The usual issue is having space for it and mounting it somehow. Think safety first and then almost any switch will do for small appliances like this.
I am not sure what do you refer to by push-on connectors. Are these side clips? If so, it’s only top half that has these and they are used to connect it to bottom part. But both parts make up entire unit which has 6 pins soldered to PCB.
I think this rectangular switch is called adruino switch. Here’s a photo:
the actual switch on that board is common.is it momentary or locking?
looks like Killswitch found your switch.a lego component like led bulb stuff.
and yes its time to get a soldering iron and learn to use it.most of us here dont leave anything stock long.and soldering is a necessity.
Yes with the soldering like in my first reply being best. I mistook the contacts for push-on terminal connectors which I now see they aren’t, so forget that and just solder a wire across the two contacts. Or replace the switch on the board. It’s not going to get any simpler unless you buy the whole switch and board assembly to make a ‘no tools needed’ type repair.
I think the switch can be repaired as is. Pry out the white tabs, it’s ok if they break because you can just glue the halves back together later. Pry those white plastic tabs out and separate the white top from the black bottom. Now carefully observe the insides of the switch. You will see some metal bits that get pressed together when you push the button. This completes the circuit and allows current to flow. But I bet the bits you see in there are charred and black. This happens over time. Carefully clean the bits inside the switch by scraping off the black burnt coating. Isopropyl alcohol may help to clean them, but scraping them clean is you best bet. Then reassemble and glue it back together if you have broken the white tabs during disassembly. Let us know how it went.
Also, you said you think this is an arduino switch. It is not. Arduino is a programmable microcontroller. This is a simple switch that connects a circuit when pressed. The multiple solder points are confusing you. This switch just connects point A to point B. This is why other members have told you the whole thing could be replaced wit a simple piece of wire for always-on operation.
8.5mm x 8.5mm is a bit bigger than mine (7mm x 7mm) so while it fits the mold, I think there will be change in spacing between 6 pins and I won’t be able to solder it accurately.
This one is 7mm x 7mm but it’s self-locking. I don’t want such because I need momentary swtich. I am not going to lock coffee whisker on for a while. It’s just to whisk coffee for 30-60 seconds.
That will make it ON permanent allowing me lesser control of coffee whisker. Replacing switch is the way I will proceed. Getting whole switch with board is not an option…
There are 2 very small pieces which is a problem to hold with tweezers. Spring and that metal piece that reminds me of those stapplings that sit in a stappler to hold sheets of paper together. The problem is that I don’t know where stappling goes and there’s also small loose contact which I don’t know where it goes. Too much trouble for fixing switch.
See links I posted to eBay above. Both listings claim Adruino in them.
Before you spend money on something that may not survive the tutorial, can you get your hands on an old PC case? The Reset switch will be Momentary-Only, if probably too large. I think that was mentioned earlier but it seems to have been dropped by the way…
Or, if you anticipate needing a lot of practice, an old PC keyboard will have enough tiny momentary switches to give you weeks of practice. Just pry up the keycaps. Newer (and laptop) keyboards won’t likely do, since they’re “evolved”, but the earliest “101-key” or “AT Style” or even some “PS/2 Style” keyboards should keep you entertained for a while.
Until you’ve succeeded in your repairs (and in the future any time the power goes out), you could go really “old school” Japanese :