Code now public! BLF A6 FET+7135 Light. Short 18350 tubes and Unanodized Lights Available

I just flash the original firmware and run with it, never hear any whine or have any issues with spacing. I’ve put this in multiple lights of various outputs, even triples, and it just works. Even a micro MiniMag using a 14250 IMR with an XP-L. VERY neat to have such a little light working so beautifully! While it worked with the twisty action just fine, I accepted the challenge and put a clicky in the tail. The light is so small twisting the tube to activate it took both hands, now it’s an easy click to use.

At any rate, I simply use the firmware as TK had it on her page and love it. The combination of Wights board and TK’s firmware is a huge hit with me! :bigsmile:

Next up…my little Texas Poker with Wights newly designed 10mm FET+1 driver. This is gonna be what this light was designed for almost 2 years ago, finally! (After about 8 revisions, I want this to be the last!)

Edit: Sorry for rambling, only mean to say that this driver is AWESOME!

Edit II: TK? Can the lowest mode in the subgroup with 4 levels be lowered to the same moon as the 7 level group? I’d use the 4 level in some of the smaller lights but the 1st level isn’t as low, and I’ve learned to really like that sub lumen output for some times….

So you use the stock STARRY FW?

pilotdog68: Hi, sorry, I’ve been trying to check if it’s okay to release the firmware for this yet. The BLF A6 uses a heavily modified derivative of starry-offtime.

DBCstm: Yes, it’s a simple matter to change the modes on the 4-level group. You’ll need to recompile for that though… I got the distinct impression that the “fewer modes” crowd doesn’t want moon, while the “more modes” crowd does… so that’s what I did. At least, for the BLF A6. On a smaller light, it’s a different matter.

If you turn low into moon, you may also want to adjust the two middle modes down to get more even mode spacing. The actual numbers will depend on the light’s maximum output, so I’m not sure what to use. At a guess, probably 0/3 for moon, 0/56 for low, 15/255 for med, 255/0 for max. (FET/7135 PWM levels for each mode) Assuming the output is about 500 lumens at max (0.3lm, 30lm, 168lm, 500lm).

Or if it maxes out at 900 lumens… perhaps 0/3, 0/90, 45/255, 255/0 (0.3lm, 50lm, 295lm, 900lm). It changes a lot because the 7135 has a fixed output level and the FET does not.

Then again, you could also just use the first three modes of the 7-level group plus turbo, which would give more options at the low end at the expense of having basically no “middle” modes. That’s what I’d probably do, since I never use the medium/high modes anyway.

Hmm I’m thinking about trying stock Starry just to see if it whines on medium. Maybe im not using enough solder on my reflows or something.

I found out today that this firmware also works fine on Wights 22mm FET+1 driver. With 3 XP-L V5 1A emitters in a BTU Shocker and the carrier re-arranged to parallel, it’s giving me 4095 lumens from 3 LG HE-2 cells freshly charged.

A 4100 lumen strobe is pretty intense! :bigsmile:

Sorry if i can’t backread but i just want to ask if the FET + 1x 7135 driver you are talking about here is exactly the same as this WIP 17mm DD+single-7135 driver / single sided / Dual-PWM
or is it totally a different driver?

Yes, that’s the one. That driver and ToyKeeper’s firmware.

If you’re coming in late to the game, you may wonder what’s so special about ToyKeeper’s firmware. Well, it’s revolutionary for one thing. It allows a mechanical clicky to work in reverse with a long press. And it has a hidden loop, backed into from moon, to Turbo, Strobe, and Battery Check. If you don’t like 7 levels, you can press it 6-8 times (fast click til it quits responding) and you’ll be in a 4 mode group 2, with the hidden loop still accessible.

Brilliant!

Does it come with an instruction manual?

I have asked about the possibility of shipping with a sheet of paper to explain the interface and general use info, but I don’t have an answer yet.

In either case, the information will still be available online.

Pretty much all PWM-based lights will whine, especially on medium modes. However, the fast PWM setting is a high enough pitch that most humans can’t hear it. If you can hear a faint 19 kHz tone, you must have truly exceptional hearing.

One other possibility is perhaps you’ve flashed it with the wrong fuse settings? That will change the MCU speed and thus the PWM speed. It should be “-Ulfuse:w:0x75:m -Uhfuse:w:0xFF:m” for a low fuse of 0x75 and high fuse of 0xFF.

Hmm I’ll have to check the fuses. I compared it to a whistle app, and the driver whine sounds like about 15khz

Just wondering if the majority would prefer the battery check before strobe in the hidden reverse loop?

I use a ZL600MK2L2 as my daily carry and I would enjoy not having to go through the stobe to check the battery every day when I get home.

Can you specify what I would have to do and what I would see to check the battery from off?

Example: 4 quick clicks from off = full bright then medium bright while you click, then one second pause off and flash battery level at high.

As a child my doctor thought I was partly deaf. Looked at my mom like “Poor woman, doesn’t realize her child can’t hear”.

Test results, exceptional hearing. Beyond the average range. The doctor had been pretty sure but I wasn’t deaf, I was just ignoring him. :smiley: Likely wasn’t saying anything that interested me. My mom knew it but it was more amusing to let the results inform him.

As long as its faint, 19 kHz isn’t too annoying. For me at least, high frequencies lose much of their volume if an ear isn’t actually facing toward the source.

Okay. There were no objections, so here is the source (so far) for the BLF EE A6 firmware:

http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/files/head:/ToyKeeper/starry-offtime/

This is not final; it’s just what we’re working with so far. At the very least, all the hardcoded values will be recalibrated to fit the production samples when they arrive, and there may be other changes as well.

At that link, the .txt file describes the interface in detail. There is also a .png with a UI diagram, but it’s a bit out of date.

As for getting to the battery check mode, the sequence is: Fully click to turn the light on, medium tap (turbo), med tap (strobe), med tap (battcheck). The reason they are in this order is because it gives the fastest access to turbo, which gets used a lot. After that, the fastest access is strobe, which tends to be needed quickly when it’s used. Battery check / beacon is usually less urgent.

is anyone of you firmware-gods interested in selling ready to use drivers ?

I doubt it, that is quite a different undertaking, once someone starts doing that he/she can count on quite a mass-production. Led4power can not keep up with the demand for his LD1 driver either. Ledsmoke has a too busy life to continue his BLFDDdriver service.

Perhaps Richard will pick up this driver with this firmware once it is finished?

Personally I would happily settle for pre-flashed Attiny's, that should be a lot less work. But if needed, Richard does that service too.

Then I'm not part of those two crowds, my UI for this driver (in any light) would be moon->350mA->fullFETblast, no memory ☺.

But the 4mode setting of your A6 firmware is good second favorite of mine ☺

It sounds likely that there may be a group buy for a firmware tool kit, and the code is available, so if anyone wants to change the modes or UI it should be reasonably straightforward to do.

I’m not interested in selling drivers. Aside from never having actually built one, I think selling stuff would take the fun out of this hobby. But I’m happy to keep making code for people to use.

In any case, the mode groups in the current version are:

    0.3lm ............................. 1600lm
G1: moon, low, med1, med2, high1, high2, turbo
G2:       low,      med,       high,     turbo

Both groups are spaced on a visually-linear scale, but they don’t have the same lowest mode.

it will be the driver for BLF Eagle Eye A6 ??? G2- Super!

No production samples have been made or tested yet, so we don’t have any confirmation on final specs. All info so far is about prototypes and what we hope to build.