In for one NW. THANKS for the work on the GB.
edited NW, NOT CW. 
It really is a no-brainer. Fits just about everything and does not hold back.
Here's a good one.......A few days ago someone from management was leaving and I was walking in. Lighting going to our break room is super dim, if any while rides are running. I flipped on my A6 and got the WTH is that????
Point is..anybody that see this thing with this driver always has questions and finishes with "I need one of those"
I think wight really hit a home run with this one. The driver is āall thatā and then some.
I completely agree TK. I really do hope we get the +1 7135 driver. I do think that EE can get them produced.
For logistics, here is what I anticipate.
- EE needs to speak to their driver manufacturing and impress the importance of time.
- EE needs to source copper (should be easy, and since we are already at almost 400...500 should not be a question any longer).
- EE needs to assemble production samples to send to Banggood.
How long will this take? I honestly do not know. It is officially their weekend over there so I cannot get any answers but I do hope to get some at the beginning of next week. The waiting is making me crazy :) but in all fairness is has only been two months since the OP and they had their holiday.
Iām in for one NW.
Put me in for another one please NW-(#297)
I would have to agree as well, but even though Iāve used 6 of them, I still canāt figure out the pwm levels when switching from the 7135 to the FET. My mode spacing is terrible, and always whines on medium.
I guess I need more practice.
Calculate the desired levels with math (I have a script to help, in my repo under ToyKeeper/Ferrero_Rocher/level_calc.py ), estimate the PWM levels needed, then measure with a light box. Adjust levels and re-measure until it hits the target, and then youāre golden.
Also, it helps to leave the 7135 on during the FET modes, because it reduces the effect of voltage sag on the FET, it reduces the tint shift, and it reduces the tendency for the lowest FET mode to get closer and closer to the highest 7135 mode as the battery drains.
Otherwise, make sure the middle modes are in fast PWM mode (~19 kHz) and it shouldnāt be audible.
I just want a magic formula to get it right the first time, without having to test and reflash 
Hmm Iām using STAR for everything, with fast pwm for everything but moon, and Medium is always audible for me.
Congrats on your 1000th post! :evil:
Please add me for 1x NW and 1x CW.
Thanks!
I just flash the original firmware and run with it, never hear any whine or have any issues with spacing. Iāve put this in multiple lights of various outputs, even triples, and it just works. Even a micro MiniMag using a 14250 IMR with an XP-L. VERY neat to have such a little light working so beautifully! While it worked with the twisty action just fine, I accepted the challenge and put a clicky in the tail. The light is so small twisting the tube to activate it took both hands, now itās an easy click to use.
At any rate, I simply use the firmware as TK had it on her page and love it. The combination of Wights board and TKās firmware is a huge hit with me! :bigsmile:
Next upā¦my little Texas Poker with Wights newly designed 10mm FET+1 driver. This is gonna be what this light was designed for almost 2 years ago, finally! (After about 8 revisions, I want this to be the last!)
Edit: Sorry for rambling, only mean to say that this driver is AWESOME!
Edit II: TK? Can the lowest mode in the subgroup with 4 levels be lowered to the same moon as the 7 level group? Iād use the 4 level in some of the smaller lights but the 1st level isnāt as low, and Iāve learned to really like that sub lumen output for some timesā¦.
So you use the stock STARRY FW?
pilotdog68: Hi, sorry, Iāve been trying to check if itās okay to release the firmware for this yet. The BLF A6 uses a heavily modified derivative of starry-offtime.
DBCstm: Yes, itās a simple matter to change the modes on the 4-level group. Youāll need to recompile for that thoughā¦ I got the distinct impression that the āfewer modesā crowd doesnāt want moon, while the āmore modesā crowd doesā¦ so thatās what I did. At least, for the BLF A6. On a smaller light, itās a different matter.
If you turn low into moon, you may also want to adjust the two middle modes down to get more even mode spacing. The actual numbers will depend on the lightās maximum output, so Iām not sure what to use. At a guess, probably 0/3 for moon, 0/56 for low, 15/255 for med, 255/0 for max. (FET/7135 PWM levels for each mode) Assuming the output is about 500 lumens at max (0.3lm, 30lm, 168lm, 500lm).
Or if it maxes out at 900 lumensā¦ perhaps 0/3, 0/90, 45/255, 255/0 (0.3lm, 50lm, 295lm, 900lm). It changes a lot because the 7135 has a fixed output level and the FET does not.
Then again, you could also just use the first three modes of the 7-level group plus turbo, which would give more options at the low end at the expense of having basically no āmiddleā modes. Thatās what Iād probably do, since I never use the medium/high modes anyway.
Hmm Iām thinking about trying stock Starry just to see if it whines on medium. Maybe im not using enough solder on my reflows or something.
I found out today that this firmware also works fine on Wights 22mm FET+1 driver. With 3 XP-L V5 1A emitters in a BTU Shocker and the carrier re-arranged to parallel, itās giving me 4095 lumens from 3 LG HE-2 cells freshly charged.
A 4100 lumen strobe is pretty intense! :bigsmile:
Sorry if i canāt backread but i just want to ask if the FET + 1x 7135 driver you are talking about here is exactly the same as this WIP 17mm DD+single-7135 driver / single sided / Dual-PWM
or is it totally a different driver?
Yes, thatās the one. That driver and ToyKeeperās firmware.
If youāre coming in late to the game, you may wonder whatās so special about ToyKeeperās firmware. Well, itās revolutionary for one thing. It allows a mechanical clicky to work in reverse with a long press. And it has a hidden loop, backed into from moon, to Turbo, Strobe, and Battery Check. If you donāt like 7 levels, you can press it 6-8 times (fast click til it quits responding) and youāll be in a 4 mode group 2, with the hidden loop still accessible.
Brilliant!
Does it come with an instruction manual?
I have asked about the possibility of shipping with a sheet of paper to explain the interface and general use info, but I donāt have an answer yet.
In either case, the information will still be available online.