Code now public! BLF A6 FET+7135 Light. Short 18350 tubes and Unanodized Lights Available

[djozz]

@ToyKeeper

@cajampa

But i wonder if maybe the Cree style of square dies that have mostly one tint in the center but a variable tint in the spill of the beam, makes bad AR look even worse…

Diffusion film helps a lot with the color variation throughout different parts of the beam. It won’t undo the effects of an AR tint shift, but it can at least make the beam more consistent. I don’t really have any good sources for lenses. I’d really like to find a place to buy non-coated frosted lenses though, since the frosted surface diffuses light more smoothly than diffusion film.

you could go mess with HF (no, don't)

[ackattacker]

Put me in for 1 NW!

[cajampa]

@ToyKeeper

Diffusion film helps a lot with the color variation throughout different parts of the beam. It won’t undo the effects of an AR tint shift, but it can at least make the beam more consistent.

I don’t really have any good sources for lenses. I’d really like to find a place to buy non-coated frosted lenses though, since the frosted surface diffuses light more smoothly than diffusion film.

Good to know, i will be testing that soon

Have you tested the other variations of the dc fix films? i found a very good & cheap source here in Sweden so i wonder if it is only the “sand” version thats a good choice.
Any of these

EDIT
I just remembered i have everything needed to make frosted glass at home a compressor & sand blaster i could try to find some appropriate 2mm glass from the local glazier & try to cut my own lenses, could be fun & dusty
EDIT2
One of the reason i have been needing to find a good diffuser, is i am slowly converting lights at home to led’s & they need to be much more diffused or directed away for indirect light to not give a harsh spot of light.
So i need to convert some old light fixtures with much heavier diffusion to get back that nice smooth light

[ToyKeeper]

I’ve only tried the “sand” variety. It seems to have the smallest grain and most random pattern. However, it’s still a bit coarse, and will produce small brightness artifacts which become noticeable if you rotate the light without changing where the spot is aimed. However, it’s really cheap since one roll is a lifetime supply for this kind of use. It’s too bad we can’t buy a half roll for half the price, or a quarter roll.

The smoothest beams I’ve seen are from the ‘F’ (frosted) models of Zebralights, and from the floody frosted Carclo optics. 10508 and 10509 are particularly nice, while 10511 has some symmetric artifacts around the hotspot.

[Raygunz]

Seems useless to resist… put me in for a CW

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

I just put an UCLp in my BTU Shocker Triple XHP70 today, I plan to use bead blasting to soften the glass lens and use it to see if it will get rid of the dark central spot from the multi-die emitters. Cajampa, any idea how to blast it and get a good result… maybe at each area of the emitter and not the whole face of the lens? Like opposite of the problem, a donut of diffusion with the center clear? Or is that asking too much?

Rubber matting material like they use to blast memorial stones?

[ToyKeeper]

@DBCstm

I just put an UCLp in my BTU Shocker Triple XHP70 today, I plan to use bead blasting to soften the glass lens and use it to see if it will get rid of the dark central spot from the multi-die emitters.

Er, isn’t UCLp a plastic lens? I don’t know how well one can blast plastic without destroying it… and at best I suspect it would totally eliminate any lumen gains acquired from switching to UCLp.

[pilotdog68]

I think he’s going to bead blast the original glass lens, not the UCLp

[cajampa]

@DBCstm

I just put an UCLp in my BTU Shocker Triple XHP70 today, I plan to use bead blasting to soften the glass lens and use it to see if it will get rid of the dark central spot from the multi-die emitters. Cajampa, any idea how to blast it and get a good result… maybe at each area of the emitter and not the whole face of the lens? Like opposite of the problem, a donut of diffusion with the center clear? Or is that asking too much?

Rubber matting material like they use to blast memorial stones?

I would think LinusHofmann would be the most successful guy to ask about optimal pattern, if i remember things right it was he who modeled a lot of various reflectors & beam patterns & tried different configs out in Silo3d early on in the XPH thread.

If you only have one lens in the right size i wouldn’t try something advanced before you get a hang on what effect you can get with your setup, so i would start light. If you think you can do a pattern like you describe test it you should be able to do the rest if that doesn’t work out.

This is why i will try to get a sheet of glass and cut some pieces so i can test what i want & what kind of effect i can get.
Why don’t you try that, cut a piece of glass it doesn’t have to be fitted yet, and try some different patterns so you don’t screw up your stock glass lens before you know what will get the best result

About what material would be optimal for the glass lens frosting blasting i can’t say yet, i need to do more research first but i would hope the glazier can set me on the right track.
I will try get some cheap 2mm test glass tomorrow, to i see if i even can cut such small features like i want to successfully with the tools i have available.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

ToyKeeper, I just paid good money for the UCLp…not about to set out to destroy it just yet!

And yes, you can bead blast dang near anything…distance and output power are critical as is finesse. Not that I personally know these things, but I’ve watched people that do.

[cajampa]

@djozz

@ToyKeeper

Diffusion film helps a lot with the color variation throughout different parts of the beam. It won’t undo the effects of an AR tint shift, but it can at least make the beam more consistent. I don’t really have any good sources for lenses. I’d really like to find a place to buy non-coated frosted lenses though, since the frosted surface diffuses light more smoothly than diffusion film.

you could go mess with HF  (no, don’t)

You are right, that is actually a way to frost glass, but it is just so crazy toxic that i also really hope you don’t

If you don’t have any sand blasting equipment, the most popular way i have found to etch glass is Armor Etch, it is less toxic than HF but still contain various fluoride compounds (personally i stay away from anything fluoride :Sp i even filter it out of my water with reverse osmosis & with activated alumina) but to etch & frost glass it looks to be needed.
If you search on how to etch glass you should find lots of guides on how to use it

You can even use it for removing AR from plastic lenses.
BUT it still can mess you up if you are not super careful, here an optician reports that he got a chemical burn that lasted for TWO years from it :Sp.
But a lot of people seems to swear by it.

[Modulor]

Put me in for 1 NW!

[rs4ever]

In for one of each. 1 x NW, 1 x CW.

[cajampa]

Any updates from Banggood or Eagle Eye bugsy36? it is the 27 Feb today so i think most should be back from the holidays in China now, if i have gotten my dates right that is.

[bugsy36]

Briefly pm'd the other day...before they were officially. He is in the process of speaking to EE BUT everybody is busy playing catchup so it will probably be next week before I really have anything.

[cajampa]

Ok probably earliest next week, gotcha

[s1m888]

Count me in for 1 CW

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

I gotta say, I’m building and using this driver in everything that has a clicky in the tail. This is perfection, pure and simple.

[mizjif]

Count me in for 1xNW Thanks!

[Vene67]

Regards from newby
Great forum !
Br. Petri