I can reflash mine and change the PWM from a 1 to a 0 and see how that affects moon if you like. Should get it down to around 4 lumens.
I do have some of djozzâs springs, I can also try one of those at the tail and a copper contact on the driver for ultimate low resistance. I think it will be necessary to use a copper contact or brass post to keep the driver end as short as possible because djozzâs springs are fairly large.
Should I try that with the moon mode before I send Krono and yourself the drivers?
And I do believe the 1+ is working well. Might end up with that, itâs a much more efficient set-up for the lower modes
The current mode spacing is good for me but if you can make the 1+ driver work for the masses to get a better low that is ok...but...Wight has to say ok as well as anybody that contributes the code...hint hint TK. ;)
I haven't spoken to Kronos but he can chime in if he likes.
Dale, can you try filing a bit off the stock springs to see if they are steel inside or a copper alloy, mainly for my curiosity? And if they are copper alloy, you do not have to bother changing out the springs.
That confuse me, why must 500 and use Maxtoch? If <500 and Maxtoch not willing to produce it, then we should go with Noctigon. I do believe Noctigon will gladly receive the order and give some discount for order 200 or more.
Anyway, please add 1 for me (NP, will decide it later). Thanks you
This is a very nice development i thought early on that the new FET+7135 driver would be a perfect fit for this, but i didnât want to complicate the process and then it was still untested.
I think the running times would prove to be advantageous and what other light is this bright, edc small, with proper moon, and long runtimes on low, i hope when those that havenât jumped in yet will see that, they will be exited enough to pull the numbers to get the lower price & copper
I am almost hesitant to ask, because i know it is a lot of work but some runtime tests i guess is needed anyway to tune/test the LVP.
@Dale which djozzâs springs are you talking about? the ones he had made in phosfor bronze and is diameter 10mm, height 15mm?
I think I built a prototype of the FET +1 driver and itâs working ok. I also have boards coming that are probably en-route to me even now. Iâve already received the stencils. So Iâll be double checking those asap.
I will take a look djozz and see but Iâm pretty sure theyâre gold plated steel springs. Thatâs what they appear to be.
And yes cajampa, I have a few of those phosfor bronze springs.
Use the 1xFET + 1x7135 driver instead of the pretty diagonal one. This gives us really nice, stable, efficient modes from about 0.2 lm up to ~130 lm⌠in addition to the extra-bright high modes from the FET.
Use fast PWM=0 for the lowest mode. This gets lower but is extremely voltage-sensitive. At 4.2V itâll be around 3 lumens, while at 3.6V itâll look like itâs barely even on. In-between it drops steadily with voltage. I have a partial workaround already written (PFM adjustment), but it only reduces the problem instead of eliminating it. It simply flashes faster and faster as the voltage drops, so it adjusts smoothly from 19 kHz to 2.4 MHz.
The PFM-based self-adjusting moon mode looks neat while itâs doing its thing, but itâs not as nice as simply using a 7135 chip.
I haven't followed that driver closely so although I understand the basic premise I am in the dark about it's functionality and the firmware required. If it can work and is just as easy of a build I am all for it.
I donât mind making firmware for this if people want me to. Before that though, there are decisions to make about the UI (and possibly the hardware).
For example, how many modes? What order? Will we have a way for people to set options through soldered stars? How low should the lowest mode be, and is it okay if the lowest mode is nearly invisible on a low battery? Do we want short/long press only, or short/med/long? Do we want any blinkies (battcheck, beacon, strobe, SOS)? If so, how should they be accessed? Mode memory, or not? How long should the turbo timeout be? Should turbo affect only the top mode or the top two or three?
My personal preference is 6 modes, low-to-high including moon, no solder stars, short/med/long presses, at least a battcheck mode (maybe other blinkies too), hidden modes accessed via âbackward from first modeâ, no mode memory.
Something like this, for example:
That side chain (turbo, battcheck) can be extended with more blinky modes if desired. This is just to illustrate the general idea.
Hey Ed, it was pulling 5.91A through the stock springs. I made the driver, should be the same as weâre expecting them to make for this buy, so even without phosphor bronze springs or bypasses itâs a performer with a good cell, not at all shabby with a $1 lap pull.
In general, the voltage would be roughly like this:
> 4.2V: 5 blinks (4.35V cell?)
4.0V to 4.2V: 4 blinks (75% to 100% full)
3.8V to 4.0V: 3 blinks (50% to 75% full)
3.5V to 3.8V: 2 blinks (25% to 50% full)
3.0V to 3.5V: 1 blink (1% to 25% full)
< 3.0V: 0 blinks, and will step down
< 2.8V: will shut off
One blink basically means âchange the battery, pleaseâ and zero blinks means âchange the battery NOW!â. Otherwise, each blink represents approximately 25% of a full charge.
With djozzâs springs top and bottom, the A17DD-S08 driver and the XP-L on copper, with a fresh but rested 35A it pulls 6.27A and makes 1555.95 lumens at start.
Still no bypasses, simple straightforward easy for them to accomplish stuff here.
Edit: Oh, and by the way, the battery tube is NOT reversible!
The Efest 35A did 5.91A with stock springs. Lap pull cells are Sanyo UR18650FJ at 4.21A and Samsung 26C at 4.24A, weâre still talking close to 1300 lumens with the lap pulls though.
i thought early on that the new 