Code now public! BLF A6 FET+7135 Light. Short 18350 tubes and Unanodized Lights Available

weird question - flashlight seems to work, when turned on I’m shaking it in my hand and so on - without a problems.
I gave one to my uncle and he’s telling me that when he had it mounted on a bike and riding somewhere flashlight was going off and on almost every time he hit a small bump on the road…
Do you have any idea what I can check here?

Or rather - told him to check… :S Eh, I should not gave it to him so fast, but use for few weeks to discover all flaws.
Another - goes to the maker and quality control.

The pill/driver section on my 3D is bluish.

The tail switch is also bluish.

Anybody else with a striped light?

I love the light, but the QC is a bummer.

Thanks to the team for making it happen!

I’m prepared to pay a slightly higher price for more lights if there will be a second run with higher quality.

^

Agree, wish EE did this run, they were as immaculate as they were underpowered.

If the springs were weak, or if they have become deformed by heat, they can get loose. To fix this, stretch it out or replace the springs and do spring bypasses. This should allow it to hold the battery firmly in place without the excess heat making it get out of shape.

Might also be the switch boot, maybe? One of my A6's switch's boot cover was real tight against the switch - swapped the rubber switch cover for the GITD that was looser - works/feels much better now. I dunno if the tightness of the boot cover would cause the switch to engage/dis-engage or not with getting bumped around.

You could also try of have him try different, maybe longer (e.g., protected) batteries, and maybe flat top vs. button top batteries - that’d be a lot easier if you had the light in your possession though.

Also, check the retaining ring in the head holding the driver and the retaining ring in the tail holding the switch and make sure they are tight. You can use a pair of pointed tweezers to do that.

Somewhere, Toykeeper also mentioned to try to make a paper clip into a circle and put that into the tailcap. The threads on these are anodized (why? I don’t know why for a tail clicky, but maybe they expected an electronic switch?), so the back end of the battery tube MUST make contact with the retaining ring in the tailcap to get the continuity.

There’s also a thread somewhere for troubleshooting this light…

EDIT: Here’s the thread: BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

Jim

My tailcap is a deep navy blue, my battery tube is dark purple, and the head is black. Pretty tough to see unless you really look for it. I kinda like the navy blue, would be nice if the whole flashlight was that color.

Again let me say this is Jack of all lights :) I will just want to point out something for the quality controller at BG or Manker. It is easy to spot the quality of the anodization by using cw flashlight. I accidentally found it out when I'm taking pictures of my light to send to heyanqing. Using indoor light seems color is alright, but when I shine it with my cool white light it showed the mis match, or maybe my eyes is not that good anymore :bigsmile:

  1. Stainless steel (who want a clip that rusts) of the proper type and heat treatment for something that needs to flex slightly and return to original shape, without being brittle. Please stress that the material / heat treat must be selected by someone over there who knows what they are doing! This is the 1st, really most important requirement, since if the clip rusts or snaps then any other clip improvements are not worth much in the end.

The fact that this 1st round of A6 clips have stress cracks and are brittle shows that the guy had no idea what material / heat treat to use. You should not be able to just snap off the wings like people have been doing, too brittle.

2. Yes, larger opening at the top.

3. Yes, much short wings. But not no wings, as some have suggested. You do need some wings to be able to get the clip on easily. They can and should be very small / short wings though. Very rounded ends, think half circle.

^

On the the issue of the ramp catching on pockets, there are a couple ways to fix it. It might help to create pictures to illustrate a change to fix it.

Received mine today and it acts very weird:

1st mode: ramping from low to highest
2nd mode: ramping from highest to low, but light turns off when it reaches dim level.
3rd mode: Medium-high
4th mode: High

There is no turbo in the 4 modes, but it can be achieved when it ramps up in the 1st mode. 1st and 2nd mode doesn’t have memory and will always ramp .

The LED is partially dedomed due to over tightening of the bezel.

Anyone experiencing the same driver behavior?

I received mine 2 days ago. I love it! Its now my backup light. 1 thing i hate is the clip though. currently using panasobic 18650pf. I dont have 30q or hg2. Ill try to do a springbyapss mod. This will be my 1st time to mod if ever.

I know there are some issues with the pocket clip, so I wanted to recommend the titanium pocket clip I got from BG:

Could you Please give us the link to it?

Is it this one? (but doesn't exactly look like yours):

Edit:

I think it is this one:

Can you show us what the other side of the of where it attaches looks like please?

I got the light a few days ago. I love it. Great moonlight mode and blinks to know battery life.

That kind of freakish behavior...no. Can you go back to 7 modes and see how it acts there, please. Plus disable the memory if you can. Trying to form a baseline.

Vinte77 - Did the holes line up or did you have to make new holes?

This is now the second longest thread on all of BLF, trailing only the “What you got today” thread which has 7,715 posts.

Congrats Bugsy36!

So I swapped in a Samsung 1 uF X7R. Not a huge improvement though.
Long press drops from around 1.5 s when cold to around 1 s when heated.
So either the OTC is heated well beyond its 125 C operating range, or (more likely) something else is also drifting with temperature.

The original capacitor measured 1.080 uF.
This drops to 0.880 uF (–18.5%) when put into some microwaved water (~80 C).

An X7R would only drop about 8% at 80 C, so this may be an xxS, xxT or xxU capacitor.

Yes, it’s the second link and I did not have to drill new holes. The holes line up perfectly, and I used m2.5 screws and nuts to put on the clip. I’ll take a picture of the underside later tonight when I have the chance.