Just noticed a dealer on Amazon selling the same light under the name CAMTOA $34.29 plus free shipping…
Good for them ;) They just need to fix their pics. LOL
Ha ha…. Yeah I saw the BLF logo after zooming in!
…. but they sell also SK68 and SRK clones… 
http://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?\_\_mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&url=search-alias%3Dsports&field-keywords=CAMTOA+led&rh=n%3A16435051%2Ck%3ACAMTOA+led
If I may “hijack”, as I am a newbie as well: what are “bypassed springs”? the copper s2+ spacer is for heat dissipation? Triple notcigon means there are 3-LED’s? and what does “narrow Carlco” mean (appears to be a brand)…and if so, how do you determine what size?
Thanks in advance and sorry for the seemingly silly questions. Looked around but found more info about people selling, as opposed to what they actually do.
No worries, and not silly. Much easier to go to this thread to see what it is and how it is done (too many posts here to find it)
The purpose is to lower resistance caused by the spring by soldering a wires from the top to bottom of the spring. Also since less current actually runs through the spring the spring tends to last longer.
Received mine today, must been from the 2nd or a later batch as had to wait but was worth it. Quality looks really good, anodizing very even, clip is good. Only quibble is that the tail cap spring seems a bit flimsy as has been noted by others but works perfectly. Waiting for 18350’s to try in shorty tube.
thanx BLF
After ordering mine in September, and having he first one get “lost in the post”, my unit (5A tint.) has left NY, and is en-route to me via USPS. Fingers crossed it makes it here and I can’t wait to try this unit!
Any comments, advice, guidance?
Oh, and kudos to the Banggood folks for replacing the unit after agreeing it was lost in the post. I had t wait a week th first time I contacted them to “see if it showed up”, but eventually they traced it, and did the right thing. Good job Bangood for h support. Bummer it was lost in the international post the first time, but hey, not their fault.
Load it up with a charged battery....., ...and ENJOY 
LOL. Love the response! Never seen a happier forum! You guys are a great community!
Spring bypass, is to use wire to connect the part of the spring that touches the cell to the board for lower resistance.
The copper spacer is to fill in the extra space the triple MCPCB and the Carlco optic leave in the head instead of the single LED board and reflector. 3 LED’s instead of one, not quite 3 times the light, also almost 3 times the heat, and 3 times the current draw from the cell. Plus extra fire hazard.
The mod is a 3-emitter Noctogon brand 20 mm copper mcpcb that fits Carclo 20mm triple led optics in this case the narrow beam version. The spacer is needed because the triple optic is shorter than the stock reflector so a copper or aluminum spacer is used under the Noctogon to raise the board and optic up to the lens. The correct spacer has a hole in the center to match the hole in the Noctogon.
Don’t point it at your face.
Hi guys, I got one anodized and one non-anodized light home just recently and the non-anodized light works great, no problems whatsoever. But the anodized light worked for about 5 minutes before pressing on the switch just wouldn’t do anything, and after a tail switch lockout to turn the light off, it won’t turn on again.
Having looked around on here, it seems as if I should open up and switch out my switch, but I’m not sure. Does anyone have any thoughts on what I should do?
Sounds like a switch issue. Check the hold-down ring first.
The brass ring that runs on the sides of the tube? Are you suggesting to tighten it or loosen it?
Tighten the brass rings in both ends. Needle nose pliers, a small pair of scissors, or a 1” section from a large paper clip bent into a U held in regular pliers or vise grips. To check the switch itself remove the tail cap and short B- to the bare end of the battery tube and it should light. If after you’ve tightened both retainers it still doesn’t work check to see if the gap between the battery tube and pill section is the same on both lights(should be just a hairline space). If the ano version has a larger gap this might be an indication the retainer can’t screw in far enough. The ano version depends on the bare metal surfaces making contact to carry current through the light. On one light I found the threading for the driver retainer didn’t go far enough to press the driver and caused a similar issue. Fixable if you can solder spacers on the driver or make a 17mm ring to place between the retainer and the driver.
I purchased the flashlight for my son for Christmas after doing (too much) research online for a good light, that lead me to this forum and another. I received the light on Monday but am still waiting for the batteries to test it. Can someone tell me what would be the best documentation to give him with the light, since it comes with no manual or description? Thanks! I never knew that was a lot of flashlight enthusiast around, it has been interesting research.
Thanks but the link directed me to a ‘Not Found’ page. I am trying to backtrack the link but have not found anything yet.
update:I was able to copy the link in a different manner and get it to open. Thanks!