There are now 3D tint in the V6 bin, but they seem to be some of the priciest of all the XP-L emitters. The 3A are also available in V6, and seem to average about $1 or ~20% cheaper per emitter (at low quanitites). I’ve been pricing some for my own X6 triple.
I would like to order 2 of these, 1 cw, 1 nw please.
Interesting update on the XP-L V6 3D Dale, i haven’t been able to use my 3D yet and the only info i had on the 3D hue besides the ANSI chart, was your description on the V4 3D being slightly rose hue, so it nice to know the V6 at could be even better in hue.
Besides Hank and RMM, where is some good places to shop for XP-L’s? i haven’t seen the V6 3A anywhere who is selling those?
I had also noticed that the V6 3D was the most expensive, but that doesn’t seem so strange considering now that it is the highest outputting and the most neutral at the same time, before it always sounded like if one wanted max lumens you had to pick a CW led, and i can’t stand the harsh blue light myself, so for me this is a very nice development 
The V6 3A I saw were on LEDDNA. I was about to order fom them, but then I saw a thread on here saying they are unreliable. They have a 99.4% rating on their ebay store, but their ebay prices are higher than their direct webstore. So I might still take the chance and let paypal protect me, or just get the 3D’s from RMM.
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Either way, for this thread I think it depends on what tints the supplier has access to.
One for me please
I saw now that they also have the V6 1A i wonder if those are even higher lumens than the V6 3D Dale have been testing? could be nice for dedoming or for mixing tints in a multi setup. I think i will buy some for mixing……
Where did you see V6 1A cajampa? The V6 is the power designation, 1A is the tint. So, theoretically, all V6’s are the same power, all V5’s are about 20-30 lumens lower, all V4’s are about 20-30 lumens lower than the V5’s, etc. etc. etc.
1A is tint bin, around 6500 or more, so they’re typically sought after for de-doming.
Which tints will be the CW and the NW in this group buy? Thanks.
Sorry, just went back to read the thread and I think it has not yet been determined, right?
Ok, thank you for explane that, but I don’t wanna be crazy with 7 modes, this flashlight is not for me 
Hope you guys have a really nice GB, thank you.
Dale, pilotdog68 found the XP-L V6 3D on LEDDNA.
I know they have the same lumens bin so theoretically they should have the same possible output, but my reasoning for thinking that a bluer led could be brighter, is that all these leds are blue leds with various amounts of phosphor, in different mixes producing the different tints cree are aiming to create on the ansi chart, so if the led in a CW colder more blue tint like the 1A is allowed to produce more of its total output in a more blue region of the spectrum it could possible produce more lumens when it don’t have to convert so much of its output to a warmer hue by using more phosphor to tune the spectrum away from its natural blue output, and as far as i know that is why warmer leds have often times worse efficiency.
But i know more knowledgeable people than me are subscribing to this thread, so if i am missing something please correct me
You do seem to be missing something, but I don’t know how? One of the main reasons to bin emitters is to avoid what you are talking about. Flux binning happens after the emitter die is manufactured and coated in phosphor. Generally speaking the warmest tints are not available in the top flux bins (aka brightness). If there is any variance between warm and cool emitters of the same flux bin it should remain within the parameters of that bin…
Yes within the parameters of that bin, but because the colder leds have less phosphors couldn’t those then more often be at the top of the variance? and the warmer have less of the highest flux within the parameters set, what if cree could produce a V7 but only of the 1A tint would they not sell those then or would the sell those few that could make it that high as a V6 because they then have lots of other in that range.
That could be true Cajampa, but it wouldn’t help/hurt us as the differences would be too subtle for us to see. We can see small shifts at low power, but the brighter it is the more leeway there is before we can tell the difference.
If you look at low powered lights, increasing output by even slim margins is seen instantly. Once you get up around 1500 or so, it takes a huge difference for us to really be able to tell. Once you’ve been looking at 3000 lumens, well, hundreds of lumens either way can go un noticed.
Please put me on the list for 1xcw. Thx
Yes you are right of course you are right, but there a lot of thing we do around here that is just because we can 
And if you would happen to pick up some V6 1A in the future ;-), i am going to enjoy reading those tests, and comparing the results to those previous ones.
I just like thinking and planning for pushing thing to its limit of my ability :bigsmile: it is only really after that i can step back and range in where my optimal usability in various projects are.
It may not be the most efficient way to do things but optimal usability doesn’t excite me in the way maximum potential or outcome of a project are, so that is what is making me complete it.
I don’t usually care much about how long it’ll run, the thing is How fast will it go? lol
I think that the important thing to note is that there are almost certainly better ways to extract extra lumens than to pick 1A over 3D tint bins… I don’t think there’s a good reason to pick and choose tint bins w/in a flux bin for any reason other than tint/temp preference or CRI. Focus on other things like resistance mods, driver, cells, etc.
I’d be in for one NW.
Put me down for one (1) NW
It’d be awesome if we can get the V6 bin with the 3D tint for the nw. Much like a few others have said, I think it’s one of the nicest nw tints.