Click 15 or more times.
The light will slowly blink twice then pause (go off).
Wait until it blinks again then click the light off.
You have now toggled the memory mode on/off.
This stuff can be confusing, probably more to me than to others, but I think once we have our lights in hand, it will become intuitive, and more obvious. If not, maybe we can beg a nice person to post a short video. I think it will be easy once we do it though.
Sam, when you turn the light on then tap it forward about 16 times (until it quits responding to your taps) then you stop and watch. It will blink and if you click it off right there you have changed between 4 and 7 modes. If you wait for a second blink at that point, then click the light off, you will have engaged last mode memory. Likewise, you can do this all over again and the next time it will turn off next mode memory.
It’s really easy when you have the light in hand, even if you miss it the first time, you’ll see what it’s doing and from there on you’ll have it figured out. Even I, with my horrible memory, love this UI!
I ran some numbers in the original BLF X6 thread, and figured I should post it here too.
One of the common gripes for the BLF X6 v1 was that the levels weren’t spaced evenly at all. The output levels I measured were:
low: 5.5 lm
med: 240 lm
high: 560 lm
turbo: 922 lm
On a visually-linear (cube-root) scale, the X6 v1’s perceptual brightness goes 1.77, 6.21, 8.24, 9.73. These represent how bright it looks to a human eye, in arbitrary units. Big gap at the beginning, then only small gaps for the rest of the range. The gaps are 4.44 visual “steps”, then 2.03, then 1.49. The brightest mode looks about 5.5 times as bright as the lowest mode.
This is fixed in the BLF A6 and in the BLF X6v2. The approximate output levels of those are (so far):
0.35 lm (visually 0.70)
11.8 lm (visually 2.28)
65.9 lm (visually 4.04)
190 lm (visually 5.75)
427 lm (visually 7.47)
832 lm (visually 9.41)
1494 lm (visually 11.43)
The “visual step” gaps here are: 1.58, 1.76, 1.71, 1.72, 1.94, 2.02. Those last two are a bit brighter since it was calibrated without spring bypasses, and this sample had a spring bypassed. In stock form, each level is about 1.7 “perceptual units” away from its neighbors. And the brightest mode looks about 16 times as bright as the lowest mode (though in reality, it’s ~4200 times as bright).
Or in the 4-mode group…
11.8 lm (visually 2.28)
143 lm (visually 5.23)
588 lm (visually 8.38)
1494 lm (visually 11.43)
These gaps are: 2.95, 3.15, 3.05.
So, this is one little thing which got fixed since the original BLF X6.
Or you can replace it if it fails. Even a few months of heavy use on my cheaper lights have had no failures. That is one of the things I like so much about this forum, a little reading and you can find out how to do this stuff yourself.
I also believe that TK said the UI was changeable if you were to re-flash the driver. If I hated the UI, I would have to buy some stuff and learn, but it is changeable. I think I will like the UI, but I will see once it is in my hands, who knows for sure until then…
This is one of my biggest anticipations for this light…. Smooth and even levels. This is a great explanation TK, I like that while the units are arbitrary, they show the spacing between levels. Got to hand it to you on this driver/UI format…
i ordered last week batteries fro this light LG18650HE4 for 5usd a pcs from fasttech does anyone know whats better the HE2 or HE4 or whats the difference ??
It seems that the HE4 are newer than the HE2. They can be an upgrade, or simply have the same spec. We will never know because those batteries are not meant to be sold for retail. They are high drain batteries, up to 20A or 35A in short pulse. It won’t happen with a flashlight (I think it’s sold for vaping mod) but who can do more can do less.
Basicaly if you managed to get hand on HE2, that would mean you are buying old batteries and time have a huge impact on li-ion batteries.