The 3D and 5A emitters are at opposite ends of the neutral white range. They’re about 4900K versus 4100K. Not really at the ends, I suppose, but far enough apart to show a significant difference.
The 1A option is at the end of cool white, at about 6700K. This should give maximum lumens, efficiency, and throw, plus it de-domes well if you’re into that.
Personally, I try to stick between 4500K and 5500K, in the “daylight” tint range. But if you’re accustomed to traditional 2700K light bulbs, the warmer 5A tint will probably look more neutral and pleasant. Tint is very much a personal preference; the colors each person sees differ quite a bit.
Yes Bugsy - Still can’t mow the yard (well, got the half of it that is the highest yesterday), but then it rained some more last night and today…
Could take weeks at this rate:-(
Pretty much fixed for ‘impending’ lights right now, but here is what I really could use on the Cottonmouths if you have one just lying around that you’re not using at the moment:
Adding more names will just add to the confusion. I say just keep it to the real names: 1A, 3D and 5A, if people dont know what these are, they will ask yes. But 1) they should learn and 2) if you make up a new naming system then people will have to learn both 1A, 3D and 5A, plus your new naming system, and then in addition some people who know the tints will have to ask what the new names mean 300 times, and “learning” a new made up naming system doesn’t mean they won’t still ask what they look like, so by doing that you just added additional levels of questions and additional levels of work…ugh…
Yeah, you see I wanted a C-WW-NW, you know a little to the cold side of WW of the NWs that someone determined should be C-NW but not too CW. Kind of to the left of the 3A5D, but I wasn’t certain what it looks like, can someone help me?
Yeah, what you’re looking for is not actually the C-WW-NW, but really the N-WW which is represented by three vertical bars at the bottom of the 4.47 tint range!