I’ll concur on the Fenix ALB-10 mount. I have two, use one on the bar for MTBing.
It’s basically the same mount as Fenix’s bike specific lights. Super sturdy, no vibration
even when the fillings in my teeth are falling off from the washboard trails at
downhill speed.
Use the standard “blf” code at BG to bring the price down to $13.05.
my tracking shows my light is close by. I expect 1 day more, or 2. By the way, mine shipped on the 15th.
Mine ordered 15th, shipped 18th but by “shipped” I mean that BG wrote that it was shipped… not yet reached post office it seems though. Waiting…
.
I can vouch for the Fenix mount too. - I have the BC30 Fenix bike light which comes with it’s own mount, and two of the ALB-10 to go along with it. - The difference is that the BC30 mount is adjustable horizontally, while the ALB-10 are not.
They are like the man here says - Rock Solid!
If I were to buy again, I would buy the ALB-10’s again, but would let Fenex keep their BC30… Not enough throw.
I sorta figured it would be this way, therefore the extra mounts to supplement the Fenix bike light with flashlights.
YMMV with a BC30, but regardless - You Will LOVE this mount!
Thanks,
-Chuck
since Fenix has MAP you have to pm me for a better price for the ALB-10…
Please upload pictures of the light in the Bike mount and comment how it fit. I also will need a bike mount for the Light…
Check this out. 
post #3472
sorry I don’t have any pics nor image hosting… weird I know…
But the Fenix mount should easily accommodate any 1x18650 light. I wanted to try a 1x28650 light but
the tube diameter is a couple mm too large for the mount.
No matter, my typical night ride is about 13 miles, 1600’ of elevation over 1hour 30 mins.
Despite using my FrankenDale lights (triple XP-L X6 at 4000 lumens), I can finish my ride
without swapping batteries. I use lower modes for the long slow climbs and max mode for
the fast but short lasting downhill runs. Same w/ my helmet light. I carry spare batteries
just in case but don’t really use them.
Obviously I can take pics if nec… but here are pics from Fenix:
It’s rather odd that Fenix claims that it has 30* of horizontal adjustment but I don’t see how that’s
possible, it’s def fixed straight ahead. Perhaps the reason horizontal adjustment, if it was possible, would be useful
is because your handlebar doesn’t have a straight section. But I’d think that there should be 1” of straight
section adjacent to the stem with any bar…
Only the mount that comes with the Fenix light is horizontally adjustable.
I was disappointed too, but the rest of it is so damn great, I can live with it.
No Pics…Sorry
-Chuck
personally I’m not disappointed w/ the lack of horizontal adj, I much prefer it w/out.
It will likely break or lead to vibration then break. I much prefer it rock solid and vibration free.
It’s one thing that a light flies off the cliff, but if that happens on the downhill run, I’d
be flying off the cliff as well…
I use DC Fix and get 180* light dispersion. I have no use for horizontal adjustment.
5A, ordered 2 days ago, just marked as shipped (marked, as in regitered, but still not visible on tracking sites)
Down South, nice catch but about 8 months behind. When I did the math on the Sanyo FJ cell I misread my writing, the numbers from the meter were 3200, I did math on 3700… so the Sanyo FJ should read 1104 lumens instead of 1276.
All this is redundant now with new samples out. Sorry about that. Glad you caught it though. (it was done in January)
Maybe this is a good time to point out something I’ve noticed. I have about 8 Samsung 20R cells. Some of them have been abused more than others. They’re all getting somewhat old. And now they all do different things in different lights. YOUR cells will act similarly, having been hotter, discharged further, handled differently, over a period of time. So variations do occur in the same brand and model of cells, as we use them and even sometimes as they come from the factory. When we do tests, or when I do tests, this is the results of MY cells at this particular moment in THIS light. Nothing is written in stone.
I think it’d be neat, if not altogether feasible, for a group of us to build the same light, buy the same cell, and do the tests on our own, our own way. Then get together and compare what the lights do under each other’s scrutiny. Might be an eye opener as to techniques and methods…
Edit: Maybe I should point out that I dug through my notes and found the hand written chart dated 1-19-15 that matches this one someone dug up. 
My 2 Fenix bike mounts both have the horizontal adjustment. Just twist the top part and it’ll click to the next position. They should also fit the A6 perfectly; I used an S2+ in one for a while.
a hint i hope i don’t get in trouble for…
if you buy the ALB-10 (non-aff ) at banggood use the products name without the minus as code
Thanks, I was looking for something like that :-)
Hi guys,
My first post here, so please be gentle
I’m about to buy this amazing light, but I have a couple of questions
(probably already answered, but 132 pages are bit too much to read).
3D tint is neutral white, right?
Since I have never owned a li-ion light, I need both batteries and charger.
Is Samsung INR18650-30Q which I saw couple of recommendations for, really
the overall best choice for this light? I want balance between high stable output
and runtime. What about 35A Efest from lumen chart floating around the thread?
I will also be buying short 18350 tube, and after reading some reviews, I have settled for
KeepPower cells, $8.6 for pair after rebate. Am I making a mistake?
For charger, Xtar MC1 seems like a nice choice. Really cheap at $4.8 at Gearbest shipped,
but seems to be using same tech as more powerful/expensive Xtar chargers.
Thanks!
Welcome to BLF Vulpes.
3D is one of the best appreciated neutral white tints over here.
You can use any battery in this light, it is just (because it is direct drive ->battery directly connected to led) that the high current batteries give, well, a higher current, and lower current batteries give a lower current. Higher current is good for more light, lower current batteries a bit less but still plenty of light (in fact the difference will hardly be noticable) but longer runtime, also because they tend to have a higher capacity.
As always a good brand name battery is recommended: Panasonic, Samsung, Sony, LG
For 18350 batteries, those that you linked should be good, the 'purple' Efest 18350 are among the best for high current.
For a charger: XTar chargers are always good chargers, they range from cheap and simple to expensive and versatile.
Does anyone know what happened to the Eagle Eye lost GB whiner thread?
Where they threatened to never work with banggood again.
Admin. probably killed it.