I’m a photographer, I shoot weddings among other things. I carry a ton of stuff all day long, usually 12-16 hours. At the end of the day I’m exhausted, it’s midnight, and I have to break down my equipment and put everything where it goes in it’s Pelican cases, usually standing over the bumper of the car in the parking lot. Having a light of this caliber, in the smallest size, ready to hand, can be a lifesaver.
That’s why a short 18350 tube and cell are likely candidates for sometimes use. I can use moon to check the plans for the reception, I can use Turbo to find my NiMH’s out of the flash when they roll all over the place. I can use a bicycle strobe walking out to the car, carrying a boatload of stuff and about to fall out while all around me drunk people flee the scene of the crime. All in a quite small little canister of light that can fit in a watch pocket.
I normally buy batteries from banggood, their price isn’t the best, but so far all are genuine and tested. Even anything happen (get defective/damaged if you so lucky), their CS is in BLF able to assist you. so far so good.
I charged the cell, tested again, tried another cell, the difference stayed in there. I took the light apart and double checked wires, ground, spring solder points, put it back together, nothing changed. But, when you look at it, 345 lumens can be gained by adding a single short wire inside the tail cap spring in many cases. So is it such a big difference after all? This emitter has a very deep warm campfire color. I don’t like it. Very similar to the pinned xenon bulb in a MiniMag.
The little pocket on the right hand side of jeans, the one at the top of the main pocket, it was designed for a watch on a chain. You know, the round watch, railroad watch, whatever? Long before the wristwatch? It was a figure of speech, no I don’t wear jeans when shooting a wedding. Not even black ones.
The size difference is one of space, not weight. And farting only helps loosen the belt. Not acceptable in mixed company anyway. But I guess that’s also old-fashioned…
The lower output of the 5A isn’t unexpected. It’s most likely the same 80CRI U6 bin that everyone sells. Compared to the V6 of the 3D and 1A that’s 5 bins lower.
Help please. Since I got a 5A tint and my lumens are less, they need a boost. I’m NOT a modder but perhaps I can do a tail switch spring bypass to get some more lumens. I have no wire on hand but I heard u can use solder wick, yes? Where do I solder the ends? One end to the top of the spring, right? The other end goes where, to the bottom rung of the spring? Don’t touch the PCB with it? With some advice, I’ll give it a whirl If this works most likely I’ll start offering custom mods!
thanks for the help….
edit: after some more thought on this, am I trying to have the battery NOT touch the top of the spring??? If it touches the spring, is it useless? Confused already.
Hmmm, my 5As do not look so yellow, but look rosy… is XPL tint significantly different from XML and XPG?
As for the 1000 vs 1300 lumens, more than I expected too, but just know its pretty difficult to actually perceive this type of difference in real usage unless you have 1000 and 1300 lumen lights on next to each other or are working at the end of the lights range.