Code now public! BLF A6 FET+7135 Light. Short 18350 tubes and Unanodized Lights Available

Wondering if I can trust the 30Q’s from Banggood are genuine. Probably don’t want to wait 30-40 days anyhow.

30Q’s:
$11.68 pair shipped/ Bangood (w/o tracking#)
$18.65 pair shipped / RMM

25R’s:
$13.19 pair shipped / illum

Any idea how long this light will be in production?

Last time I ordered batteries from BG it took more than a month to arrive (they were genuine). Unless you really need the savings and have no hurry at all there is no reason to order batteries overseas.

Thanks for the answer :slight_smile:
OK, so that explains the mystery blue mcpcb.

I don’t agree that the switch is nothing to worry about, and i wouldn’t call the omten high end. I would call them good enough :wink: In a high powered light that is going to run hot, i value an omten just as high as a DTP copper mcpcb. Several small white noname switches that came stock in other lights have burned out eventuality & no omten have burnt so far for me. Although i have not used this exact one & i hope it is a good one but i would never chance it in my own light.

I wonder if the noname switch was in the Manker sample & nobody noticed it, or it was noticed & signed of as OK.

Someone should absolutely make a triple GB, even if it would cost more, if you want a triple it would cost the same or most likely more anyway.

As i have already been hoping & asking for a triple or quad X6-SE GB & a triple A6 GB i am sure it would absolutely sell lots, especially the triple/quad X6 that is just an amazing usable light, that can sustain high output safe for much longer than the A6.
And the extra risk could be mitigated by using the attiny25 with the temp sensor firmware, for a next gen BLF light :wink:
Now with Hank on board with Manker maybe even a quad 32mm Noctigon could be made for the X6 & the CUTE-4:)

The need for spring bypasses could be fixed by using copper berylium springs or possible carobronze, & the real omten switch are already good enough for the triple/quads.
The possible need for a switch pcb bypass could probably be sorted by a extra heavy duty switch custom pcb run with extra thick traces & solder though bigger vias, or if that isn’t enough a 4 layer pcb with extra copper to spread out the heat build up.

…………one can dream……… 0:)

I got 4 of mine here in Norway today:
The only thing I’m missing is the tint info on the packages, since I have ordered 1 x 1A, 2 x 3D and 1 x 5A, but have no idea which is which.

They should be in a sticker on the plastic bag for each box.


I would love to see a triple X6 (XP-L, aiming for ~3.3K lumen) happen and I do think the form factor is better because of the larger head. Although my wife will probably kill me for buying yet another light :P

Just switch them on, you will see which is which.

Got my A6 today, it’s a 5A tint. I’m quite disappointed with this light.

First of, the threads at the tail don’t feel like nice quality threads, as someone mentioned before, and what’s even worse: they don’t match the ones in the X6. So no X6/A6 lego.

Then there is an anodization mismatch: anodization on the tailcap is visibly different than the rest of the light.

Another bummer: Popped a cell in, clicked the switch—— nothing. Thought it was DOA, but it was in the moon mode, that doesn’t light up… second mode is exactly as bright as the third. Third hidden mode (#–3) doesn’t light up. 4th hodden mode (#–4) doesn’t behave like it should, it only flashes, without continuous light. 5th hidden mode (battery indicator) doesn’t light up at all.

Last but not least: I can’t get this head open! I could try to reflash the driver, if I could get this head open. What you guys at Manker are thinking? Sorry, but this unit isn’t much better than DOA.

Had to do that, and found out which was which. On the good side, no DOAs.


Yes, the head is liked glued!! I tried everything but I didn' t managed to open the head by hand! ... And I tried like a Hulk! ;-)

Just wrap some duct tape around and use a a pipe wrench. Or use some rubber gloves for better grip. It is really not that hard to do :wink:

Chouster, family forum… please watch the language!

I guess this refers to the word g****mn. It is a cultural thing, in Europe that kind of cursing is less offensive than in the States. And I have gotten the impression that in America swearing is quite normal as long as you do not write it down??

I think it varies in America as well.

The cultural difference maybe one of religion. I love our God, and I stand with Him. David cut off Goliath’s head for shouting obscenities at God’s army. It’s a Biblical thing.

Nonetheless, our Admin asked us to keep it family oriented and written cursing is highly prohibited. My 8 year old reads at a 10th grade level. Why should my child be seeing someones carelessness? Here, speaking out loud like that in public can get you arrested and fined for public indecency. Also here, on this forum, it can get a person kicked out.

Was just alerting Chouster that his language needs to be monitored for the well being of the masses. I find it offensive and do not intend to put up with it.

Wow, i had no idea public cursing is a crime in Texas :open_mouth:

For the record, even apart from that it is a forum rule, I do agree that cursing should not happen in the forum.

I just tried to explain why it did, it is not easy in a worldwide forum to feel the cultural/biblical sensitivities of every region , perhaps we say things all the time that are very offensive in yet another part of the world.

Come on down! Curse a cop, get schooled… Fip a finger, get arrested (or shot, we now have open carry. That’s right, Texans are carrying guns on their belt at the grocery store, pumping gas, anywhere and everywhere (sorta)! Be forewarned, things could get explosive down here!) Bottom line is one of respect.

And now, back to the regularly scheduled program, already in progress…

The anodisation of by first light is a bit different at the part of the head which hold the reflector.
The clip of my first A6 (5A Tint) is not overall close to the battery tube. So there is a little place between and it is not round at this place.
And I have the problem with the thread between X6 and A6 too.
And I have no noctigon mcpcb. On mine stands “BLF” and “Alex Wells”

Thats not at all what I wanted but the light works fine.

I could open the head with rubber gloves.