Got my lights quickly, they look and work great.
THANK YOU for making it possible.
George
Almost wish we had stuck with EE…seems the QC on this A6 sucks…what’s a dollar or two more when you have piece of mind what you’re getting will be excellent quality (like the BLF X6)
That’s a new one. I wonder what causes it… maybe the spring is bending sideways, or maybe the anodizing is in the wrong places? I’d suggest the usual methods first, sanding the tail end of the body tube, cleaning the parts, taking the tailcap apart and putting it back together, etc. I just checked and the tailcap retainer unscrews in the normal direction using tweezers or a divider or compass.
If that doesn’t work, perhaps someone else has ideas or maybe banggood can help?
I just ran a test on a bone stock BLF SE-A6 with a Samsung 30Q.
Lumens in pipe: 1485 at startup, 1326 at 30 seconds
Very pleased, I’ll do some spring bypassing later and check again.
I got my 3D and 5A lights today and I took them apart to clean them before putting batteries into them. After playing around with them I opened the head of the 5A and to my surprise this was at the top of the battery. It’s diameter was less then that of the tube (if I drop it in one end it will fall out the other end). Not sure where it came from because I don’t see any damage or bare metal inside the tube, head or tail cap.
Would that be whole new set of modes?
By the way my old electrical education is slowly coming back but I’m an electrician not an electronics guy even though we went over it quite a bit many years ago……
I’m understanding the 7135 is controlled by the atiny to allow high amps through it with low amp seen by atiny for D.D.?
But the other modes run through atiny to the led?
And what’s that 4 lead module do? Or is that pwm?
The pin could be used for anything. It’s unused but available as a general-purpose input. Originally, it was going to be used to toggle mode memory, but it’s easier (for users) to do that in software.
The 7135 allows up to 350mA (or 380mA?) to the LED, directly, without the current passing through the attiny. The attiny merely opens and closes the 7135’s circuit. Same thing for the MOSFET, except it allows as much current as the cell can push. These two provide the two power channels used to generate a wide variety of output modes. The attiny never powers the LED directly; it just controls the two power chips with PWM.
The PWM is 8-bit and cycles at 19 kHz (or 9 kHz on moon mode, to make it more stable). Low modes use only the 7135 chip, turbo uses only the FET, and medium-high modes use both. So, low modes behave nicely with a nice flat discharge curve while high modes have more sloped discharge curves. Every mode except turbo has at least partial regulation. And the medium-to-high modes never actually turn off; they just toggle quickly between two different brightnesses.
> SIGshooter
I hope there’s no Elvish written on that ring …
Oops ya got that backwards. 7135 is not D.D.
Thanks!
It’ll all click in my brain someday. Just hard for me to relate it to what I normally deal with. (Like relating the fet to a lighting contactor. Or motor starter. )
Holy crap our power grid is 60 hz….19 k seems smokin. I get why. But am gonna go look up how.
Make a loop with a paper clip and drop in the tail cap.
I’m frustrated by all of these issues. Not for myself, I don’t even have my lights yet (although I must admit my eagerness is now being met with some trepidation and apprehension). I’m frustrated for all of the great, smart people who put so much selfless time and effort in to bring us an incredible light, at a great price. They did that, and expected the best. I think most of us will be very happy, but it looks like there is something of a QC lottery going on here. All of the people involved still deserve our appreciation. If some of the lights have problems, it is out of their control, not their fault. Maybe Bangood will help where necessary. I sincerely hope there aren’t too many disappointments.
Hummmm I did notice that I couldn’t see myself in the mirror after I slipped it on my finger.
can i change the mode? the 7 modes are a little too much for me.
Check the first post I think there are instructions. Click 15 times wait for blink and click again?
Check:
I wonder what they’d charge for a host, and whether a transplant would work.
Probably at least half the price of the complete light.
arent there specs for the light tube as manker said they build the EE A6 its is quiet clear what format messures it has and samples aprover with a thread M21 so not they are nto m21 its a failure from the production there is nothing to duscuss about this thread are a NORM and this norm has been failed to fulfill. if the BLF team has aproved the samled and not we get the production in another size which is not exchangeable with existiing lights from the members it is not exchangeable with their gear so its not fully useable and not possible to say sorry thats how it is end of story thats also known i china. i am working all the time wwith china and do QC in factories and they know pretty well about QC and know very much about norms and standards.
this is not an issue of tolerance this is total failed and unacceptable
Have you tried another battery? Every time that's happened to me it's always been that the battery was too long and putting excess pressure on pill/driver when screwed down.
I’m sure wanker is supposed to be funny. I know I thought of it when I first saw their name. I’m sure a lot of us thought of it and thought it was worth a chuckle, much like bang good and Uranus fire, etc.
So, seriously, are there hosts that this driver and emitter will transfer to reasonably well, to leave behind the hardware issues?
Do I recall correctly that the last set of samples did successfully lego both with the X6 and with the S2+?
The unique driver, plus the emitter and the wires connecting them would seem to me a good deal, still, for $25, even losing the host they came in.
Also note, having finally gotten the stuck head apart, those black lines visible in the very early screenshots I and TK posted are shadows — they’re the slight gap between the plastic spacer and the square emitter. I’d thought they were the emitter sitting in a square black outline not quite straight but there’s no such ‘target’ on the board. When the bezel/head is tightened down, the reflector makes the white plastic spacer rotate — and it makes those long triangle dark gaps turning that last little few degrees.
I’m used to emitters are held down by machine screws or press-fit or threaded retainers, hadn’t had enough lights that rely on the reflector to hold the emitter in place to have recognized that result.