Code now public! BLF A6 FET+7135 Light. Short 18350 tubes and Unanodized Lights Available

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1825601

I grabbed this a while back and even with several lights attached to it the silicon keeps it in place on your head.

So I received my light today, but the moonlight mode is not working. It emits no light at all, and the driver seems to output only 0.02V to the led when it is on. Other modes seem to work ok.

Does anyone know what could be the cause of moonlight mode not working, and how to fix it (if possible)?

Pictures of the driver here

The first fits good and you can turn it up and down.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1630/10005557/1435322-adjustable-nylon-band-for-headlamp
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1630/10012146/2062807-adjustable-elastic-band-for-headlamp

So far this is my only gripe.

Haven’t checked all six of the lights I received yet for proper operation, but so far, so good.

O-ring and stuck head problem SOLVED.

Overnight.

Over the last couple of days, trying to get the head off my warm light, to fix the squashed O-ring where it was spread out between lens and reflector, I’d
—- used a tiny bit of NanoLube and set the light so gravity would pull it into the threads
—- used a bit of electronics cleaner, ditto
—- used a different brand of tuner cleaner/lubricant, ditto
combined with repeated tries with a padded vise and padded vise-grips to get the head separate from the bezel, to get inside and fix the O-ring

Played with the light a bit, let it get good and warm. Still completely stuck.

Set it aside overnight.

This morning — the O-ring has shrunk back into where it should be.
AND
The bezel unscrewed from the head easily enough with just bare skin hand grip

I used a microfiber cloth and wiped all the solvent traces out — the solvent or lubricant had moved, probably evaporating and redepositing, all the way to the glass lens and O-ring.
The O-ring has a little tiny chewed spot where it was out of position I guess, but it fits back in well enough.

I notice that the glass lens sits right on the metal lip at the front of the bezel, the O-ring goes behind it and the reflector has a groove for the O-ring

So — I’m not RECOMMENDING this — it remains to be seen what effect the solvent has on the emitter, I know emitters are coated to keep volatiles from affecting the color.
I know choosing the right chemicals — in O-rings, thermal goop, thread lubricant, driver boards, solder, flux, etc. — can affect emitter color over time:
http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED%20Components%20and%20Modules/XLamp/XLamp%20Application%20Notes/XLamp_Chemical_Comp.pdf

But — no worries about the stuck head and O-ring.

Others with stuck threads — I don’t know if this was a good idea. But it worked for me. YMMveryVary …

EDIT — and each time the bezel-head thread is loosened, the O-ring in this light — escapes its groove.

I think someone used an O-ring just maybe a millimeter too small in overall diameter, so it
— needs to be stretched to fit into the groove in the reflector,
BUT
— the groove in the reflector is just barely a right angle, no curve, so the stretched O-ring really, really wants to pop out toward the lens.

Very slow, careful, upside-down-looking-up reassembly, slowly tapping and turning to get the O-ring exactly centered over the front of the reflector, then tightening slowly.
That forces the O-ring EVENLY out into the groove.

Slightest little twitch and it jumps out along part of the circle and gets squashed between reflector and lens.

Lesson learned — reach for the CORRECT O-ring bin and MAKE NO SUBSTITUTIONS when putting parts together.

haha.

As others have pointed out,

The head may be difficult to take apart.

I used a layer of duct tape, covered with gaffers tape for grip:

Here’s the head disassembled into three pieces:

The reflector resembles the Convoy S2+ reflector shown to the left:

Of course the light works without the reflector, making a candle!

Please avoid exposing your eyes to the LED on the bright modes!

Notice the difference in that photo — the S2+ (and also the older X6, and I think most lights I’ve had) put the O-ring between the lens and the bezel
compared to the A6 that puts the O-ring between the lens and the reflector

(The A6 bezel lip inside is flat instead of making a shallow groove, and the A6 reflector has a groove at the front that captures the O-ring).

I wonder what the thinking is behind that difference, if any.

Oh I see now on that other pic there is a hole from the factory near one of the atiny’s leads.

@Blinky1

If you have the same problem like I’ve experienced than you should have no continuity between these two points.

Thanks, I’ll try to double check that next time I open up the light. I already did heat it up a bit with my soldering iron, and then put the light back together to test it, but it did not work. Could be that I was too cautious and didn’t heat it enough. I’m a bit afraid that I’ll overheat something and make it worse.

I received my 4 lights today. All 4 thread smoothly, have matching anodizing, and require the tailcap to be very tight to make a connection. (already sanded the end of the battery tube on one, 10 seconds work and it only requires normal tightness now)

Only one flaw that I’ve found so far, a crack in one bend on one clip.

I haven’t checked thread fit vs an X6, or tested output.

Got my 3 today (one of each tint) and all 3 are flawless with absolutely no operational issues. Kudos and many thanks to all who persevered and sweated the little stuff over the last Year to make this happen!

If everything else works fine, it’s probably the 7135 chip being out of tolerance, or a fried resistor. You could try reflashing with a higher value for moon mode, maybe… or perhaps briefly re-melt each solder joint in case there’s a physical problem. Or, of course, you could see if Banggood might be able to help with a replacement.

There should be a hole at pin 3. It’s a via which drops through the board to let you easily ground pin 3 if you like. This is not used in the stock firmware, but is available as a bonus for people who want to use other firmwares and allow an option to be configured via soldered “star”.

1A and 3D came in, MCPCB in the 1A light though was flapping in the breeze...no paste? Nonetheless when the reflector is pressing down on it the head tube is heating up pretty fast, which is a good sign.

http://imgur.com/a/QsLal/embed

Otanacious thanks for posting the pics.

Interested in group buy.

PM sent.

Amazing flashlight!

As of this morning, my lights are 70 miles from my house. I am hoping that means I will get them tomorrow. The anticipation is building, then I have to wait for the sun to go down! Good stuff! I sure hope I can drop in a cell and start shining right away. Time now to start topping off my good cells…

awesome! Great Forum! TK asked for pics. He provided some nice ones. People saw a possible error. It was corrected and the light works! Amazing!

My 3D tint “Wanker A6” arrived yesterday. It wont power up until I unscrew the tail cap half way. Both the driver and switch rings are tight. I put some Ox-Gard on the threads and that didn’t do squat.

I’ve had a headache since yesterday and can’t concentrate enough to troubleshoot this. |(

Any ideas? Bueller?