Did you test it without the tail cap? I thought mine was DOA, then thought the switch was dead. but the tail cap anodizing was the issue. I had to tighten the cap super super tight to get contact. I sanded the end slightly and now it makes contact fine. Some people have suggested using conductive grease to help .
Thank you! After the first shock I remembered the previous posts and checked the tail cap/switch, the switch is fine (multimeter) and I couldn’t see a possible contact problem (anodizing), but after I tightened it several times there is light and the tint is very nice.
I really love the 3D tint, it’s noticeable better (less green/a bit warmer) than the NW tint of my Fenix PD32UE.
Looking at the head of my Fenix, the “Hot temperature warning” symbol attracted my attention, which is not there on the new BLF A6 - I don’t need this, but if a light seems entitled to wear a temperature warning on the head, than it’s our BLF A6.
A special thanks to ToyKeeper, the UI is very intuitive and the moon mode is great!
And of course, the only faulty one! I ordered one of each tint and this faulty one is the 3D. I sent a couple pictures to BG and am waiting for their response.
I don’t really know what is wrong with the led, but the damage is clearly visible and the brightness is a lot lower than should be.
The other two are really well made and bright and the UI is also spot on IMO. I especially like the simple looks, both the light and the nice box it came in… 8)
Here’s a picture of the problem…
Got it right now and haven’t played much with it but what I can say directly:
Impressive work guys!!!
We all here tend to judge lights because of the potential they have, but this one is well built in stock form which was NEVER available before. Unbelievable and that for such a cheap price.
The best driver which was ever placed in such lights with my favorable UI in a clicky light! awesome.
I tried it with different cells (HE4, HE2, 25R,…). A couple of moments ago I tried it again with cells charged and checked with DMM @4,18V and 4,16V and the problem stills occurs. Now that I finally managed to open the head (rubber gloves), I went ahead and desoldered the wires from the MCPCB and pulled out the driver.
Here are some pictures
Do you think I should try to reflash the driver?
I think my negative comment could easily be misunderstood. I think this light is awesome, I just had bad luck with mine.
From your original description and the photos, I would suspect the 7135.
Not a great job someone did there.
Can you try to clean up the solder around it, reflow it, or replace it?
I think that’s highly plausible it’s the 7135 causing the problems. I’ll do some continuity checks with DMM first to see if I can find something wrong.
I think DEL was correct. There was no continuity between the output leg of the 7135 and the LED-/FET, although the fat solder blob on that leg seems to make contact to the FET, it didn’t. I fixed that. Now I’m going to reinstall the driver and hope it works as it should. Let you know in some minutes.
do you know if I can find somewhere (preferably china or europe shop) some kind of head mount to use with this flashlight?
I see some belts with rubber mounting on aliexpress for example, but sold for $20-30 with flashlight, and I don’t exactly need another light.