BTW, can we get a measurement of what the battery tube length is meant to be as it has been mentioned that some may be too short? It will help some narrow down the problem, whether it’s the switch or the tube.
I don’t have a meter, but using the phone sensor app the two mode for both group is giving me the same lux reading.
I also can’t seen to remove the ring that hold the driver in place. I was able to loosen it about half a turn before it getting stuck. I already broke my tweezers trying to unscrew the ring out. Any idea on a better tool to get the driver out?
If anything it’ll hopefully put Banggood off working with Manker…but who are we kidding here, the cheapest bid will always be chosen first for a mass produced cheap item
The phone sensor is a great idea! More people should do that.
If the driver retaining ring stops after half a turn, don’t force it. Instead, move it back to the loose part of its range, then lift it gently with tweezers while turning it. It may be stuck between two different sets of threads, and needs to be lifted to reach the next set.
I’m getting 4.97A on a new 30Q cell (4.17v, hour rested). 12awg short leads, inexpensive dmm.
3D tint looks a little rosey to me. Pretty nice actually.
Same silly off-center battery tube /shrug. The rest seems pretty decent. Something like $15 for the A6 host and $20 worth of internals? Pretty good deal.
I love the step back/reversing feature btw. I’m already kinda looking down on my other flashlights for not having it.
For me after the 15 clicks turns the light off the next blink is the signal to immediately turn the light off, and with no hesitation, to change modes. If it blinks again then you’re in the memory mode stage of the software.
Finally received mine. I'm very impressed with the light. A few minor issues (not complaining): bezel is overly tightened to the point that I cannot loosen it (may try strap wrenches later on if I actually need to remove it); some chips on the clip; and cold solder joints on the driver and switch springs (which I touched up during spring bypasses, anyway).
I was concerned about possible QC issues after checking this thread occasionally, but so far, it seems to perform as intended. I do worry about possible cold solder joints elsewhere, but I'll have to deal with it if/when any issues occur.
The driver is amazing and really elevates the light above others. The optional 5A tint is just the proverbial cherry on top for me. Thanks to all involved.
I repaired my 5A A6, got it up hot and run'n! Decided to go with a XM-L2 T5 5D (from FastTech actually) mounted on a Noctigon. Replaced wires with 22 AWG silicone (was Teflon), the LED+ wire runs direct to the spring now (drilled a thru-hole in the driver), used 22 AWG wires for the driver and tail spring.
On a 30Q (or a LG HG2) got 6.42A (wow), in my PVC lightbox measured 1360 @start, 1207 @30 secs. Output drops like a rock and is barely touchable after 30 secs on turbo. It cools down real quick though. The heat is expected - not much material or surface area to help in cooling for a light this size.
Should note the reflector is designed for a XM-L2 -- it fits perfect with a standard XM LED alignment piece you can get almost anywhere, like at FastTech.
I'm liking the 5D tint (or whatever it is) - it's clearly warmer than the 3D, very close to a 5B1. I don't really trust FastTech for LED's, but this one appears to be from maybe an old batch that produces 6+ amps. For $3.90 at qty 5, pretty good deal, but you do have to remove it from the poor quality 16 mm MCPCB.
Note as well: I had a tight bezel but used latex-coated gloves from Lowes to easily open it up, no strap wrench's needed. The nitrite-coated gloves would work probably just as good or better -- $4-$5/pair. These coated gloves have worked really well to open many stubborn lights.
I don't get the impression that anyone is blaming bugsy or any of our other members who put this project together. In fact, in reading through the posts where people have been "complaining" pretty much everyone has been very appreciative of the huge amount of time and effort put into this project by all concerned.
It certainly seems that the samples supplied were fine but that when translated into actual commercial production, Manker dropped the ball. From a western perspective, it is pretty hard to understand how we can have something as basic as multiple DOA issues - seems to suggest that for some lights, not even the most rudimentary QA was performed before shipping. Troubling!
We have been told the problems will be dealt with; now we will get to see if Manker step up and are good to their word. If they start dicking users about instead, then word will get around quickly.
By all means, if you have a bad light, you have a right to be disappointed regardless of the "budget price" but let's give them the chance to put it right.
The click window is slightly longer than that. I’ve modified the diagram to show the click window in green, and how it relates in time to the blinks. To change the setting, turn it off during the green-highlighted time.
But yes, it’s best to aim for the spot in-between the two blinks. If you’re a little late, it should still work… but you do still have to be reasonably quick about it. The window is one second long, and the internet tells me the average human reaction time is about 268 ms, so I think one second is long enough for almost everyone… especially when they know it’s coming.
Click any time during the green rectangles at the bottom:
I had a tight bezel but used latex-coated gloves from Lowes to easily open it up, no strap wrench’s needed. The nitrite-coated gloves would work probably just as good or better — $4-$5/pair. These coated gloves have worked really well to open many stubborn lights.
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So, these gloves are really grippy? Just these gloves and your hand strength are enough? The problem for me is that’s it’s very difficult to get a good grip on the small end of the head. I’m letting my fingers mend before round 5.
TK, thanks for the explanation. The green window makes sense because I typically catch the mode switch right at or after the second flash and the modes switch as intended.
So, yes I got my 1A, 3D, and 5A finally. Mechanically they are consistent; centered bore (tail switch side). Under normal lighting the color is jet black consistently across all three (unless I shine 400 lumen’s worth of hot spot on them :bigsmile: ). Tailcaps could be a little less loose but still they are good. Color tint is great on all three. These are nice emitters.
I have only played with them a little. The 3D and 5A switch modes as expected. Love the 7 mode. The 1A on the other hand does not light up in moon or turbo but, surprisingly, when in 4 mode, the turbo works. Go figure. I’ll contact Neal’s assistant. And yes, I am still able to switch modes on the 1A but I have to count since turbo is out in 7 mode.
I’ll play some more with them over the weekend and clean and lube. I have not busted any heads open yet, but then again I am not a violent person.
Thanks for the A6. You have done an outstanding job with it.
The 3 lights I received are perfect. I’ve been using them the last few days, and fell in love with these tube lights. I’m in for three more. I was wondering if the discount code is the same? Thanks again A6 team!
