Code now public! BLF A6 FET+7135 Light. Short 18350 tubes and Unanodized Lights Available

A big THANK YOU to the team that made this possible. It have been months of hard work and us impatiently asking “when” :wink:

My NW 3D device is operating correctly, software is responding according to the state diagram and the anodizing is black and uniform. Surely the metal work is not the greatest and there was no any lubrication on the threads and rubber rings but this was an easy fix.
There was one thing that was not good and required attention and this was the center tube alignment. The back plane (the one to the switch) was not perpendicular to the tube axis. That created issues with the contact and also made the tail cap tilt. A little work with the file corrected this and now I am enjoying the light.

Thanks again

By now they should be well familiar with the problem. Asking for video is bad enough, but asking for the shipping label ?! Did you have issues with Banggood in the past?

No, however in the past I was ordering from fasttech/dx/aliexpress, never before from banggood, so maybe they don’t trust me as a new client?
However with 3 flashlights I bought also 18650, charger and power bank paying $130 together, so I’d expect them not be so suspicious when I’m complaining about 1 flashlight about issue other customers reported as well…

I’m wondering how hard would it be to change 1A to 3D, anyone knows any tutorial on that matter?

Shouldn’t. Did you give the order number?

Maybe contact Neal? I don’t know his contact address, maybe somebody give “weren” the Neal’s contact info?

Wait for now.
cservice asked me for sipping label, but Neal’s assistant asked only for order number and video, which I sent few minutes before, so for now I’ll wait.

And look how to replace 1A tint, I think cold white is not my colour and I’d rather have two 3D :slight_smile:

…………………
Things I would change: make the turbo timer longer! By the time mine kicks back it’s hardly hot at all

Try again when the ambient temperature is 30c+ and you have done both spring bypasses.
TK has got it spot on.

[quote=weren]

If you are able to open your bezel, it is a question of getting these and soldering 2 wires:

~~http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xp20-v2-mcpcb-cree-xpl-v6-3d-led-p-811.html~~

http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xp16-v2-mcpcb-cree-xpl-v6-3d-led-p-812.html

I have some on the way from Mountain Electronics to replace the ones that were hammered into place on my 3Ds. My one 3D is also a mystery tint, much warmer than the other presumed 3D. At least this way I will know exactly which tint and efficiency bins I have.

I would also urge everyone that is able to open and solder on the driver side to redo the soldering for the LED wires on the driver side. I have never seen solder like that before, it really is like dried mud as someone described it earlier. Reheating it does nothing, fluxing it does nothing. Remove it and put fresh solder. These two wire connections are probably the cause of most of the issues we see here. The black wire kind of shares a pad with the 7135 chip and this is probably also why some people have issues with the low modes.

> http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xp20-v2-mcpcb-cree-xpl-v6-3d

that’s a 20mm board

> redo the soldering for the LED wires on the driver side
Anyone make a really small solder sucker? The only ones I’ve seen are way too big to get into the small space needed, or else I’m just not doing that right

Try using desoldering braid instead.

Oops!

http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xp16-v2-mcpcb-cree-xpl-v6-3d-led-p-812.html

+1.
But this stuff is so dry, it does not suck into the braid…it came free in a clump sticking to the braid/iron. It came clean off the PCB without leaving a trace.
Maybe they tried to use solder paste, not solder?

Thanks.
With shipping it’s ~$10, almost half the price of the flashlight. I most certainly didn’t expected that. :smiley:

Is that what you’d expect to see if the board contacts were not “tinned” first, maybe not cleaned off?

I don’t know if these were done by machine or by hand.

Today I received 2 x 3D A6 and both in perfect condition. UI works exactly as described. Thank you very much

Could you please advise me? I’m wondering whether 3D I received is actually 3D.

Here’s the photo 5A vs 1A:

Just how I imagined warn and cool white. Difference is obvious.

And here’s 5A vs 3D:

I just really can’t see much difference here.

Could anyone share his photo of 5A vs 3D?
I looked at XP-L chart and difference between 5A and 3D should be pretty big, enough to notice, in my opinion…

I saw a similar problem with diode heatsinks that were soldered onto a cathode plate. The heat sinks separated from the plate at high operating temperatures. The root cause was excess solder paste over the weekend because it was improperly storage of the production tools

That’s about what my 3D looks like. Neutral with a slight hint of warm/rosey tint.

Not much to contribute other than I got both of mine just today and I’m happy as a pig in mud.
Turbo is silly bright and moonlight is usably low. Love the start in low mode.

I used a laptop pull at first, then put in a fully charged HE2 and BAM! Crazy bright. I like the 3D more than the 1A most of the time, but the 1A seems to have a hair more reach. 3D seems like sunlight, 1A tint feels “clean” or “clinical”.

BTW, I’ve changed my mind about making one of them a triple. I had plans to change one, but I saw them in person and realized they are both bright enough for what they are to me.

I’ll pull them apart someday in the future to make sure all is good, but for now they’re both working as expected. :slight_smile:
Thanks to the team for putting it all together.

My A6 came in today and it is malfunctioning, no matter how much I screw the tailcap, most of the times it won’t turn on and the few times it does, it fails changing modes, it just goes black. Bummer :frowning: