Sorry to hear. Which tint did you get?
FWIW, I have an attiny25 driver on the way… which should enable thermal monitoring instead of a turbo timer, and also adds enough room for features like choosing the mode order. The code will be open as usual.
The easiest way is to get a Noctigon with a 3D emitter, then swap the entire MCPCB. The only soldering needed is to disconnect the driver leads, then reconnect them on the new board. If it helps, here is the thread I made about my first emitter swap.
As for the cost… A FET+1 driver and XP-L on Noctigon are about $20 together, leaving only $5 to cover the cost of a host and wires and labor and shipping. That’s why the A6 is such a good deal… it’s less than the cost of its parts.
You may have a battery tube that is too short. Jump a piece of metal from the tail of the battery to the tube. Email Neal with your findings. He will take of it.
Hey gonna try something for this amazing light. I’m hoping it will help some people. It will be a place where the op can be updated for this light. Open to ideas from you guys and I’m sure I’m missing a lot but will be adding to it in time ie spring bypasses, runtime charts, etc. But I may need your help as I am pretty new. Thanks! 
The boards themselves look good.
All components sit pretty straight, indicating that it was not assembled by hand.
But I am pretty sure the wires were added by hand. And it is possible that there were more than one set of hands, with some better at it than others.
The pads underneath the ‘solder’ clumps were tinned, possibly from the assembly/reflow of the board.
On mine the solder connection to the PCB may have been OK, but the solder did not ‘wet’ the wires and the wires do not seem to have been pre-tinned.
From an earlier post:
Before touching it.
After heating the solder.
On a side note:
The wires used are a little stiff, but seem to be of good gauge with robust insulation, maybe PTFE.
I did replace them with silicone wires, however.
I ordered and received two ’3D’s.
One may be a 5A, however.
From an earlier post, A6s on the outside, XML2-U2-3C in the middle:
I ordered a 1A because It was only one in stock. For 6500kv, I am very happy. Suspect it may be 3D. Will have to get it outside tonight to compare with others. Everything works as it should.
Does the turbo timer move the light down to ‘high’ on both the 4 and 7 mode group, or does it move it to ‘high’ on the 4 mode, and ‘high2’ on the 7 mode?
I’ve tested turbo in both 7 and 4 modes, from the normal progression and from right below moon/low in the hidden line-up, and every way it drops only one, being the first below turbo. That’s high2 or high, so you get more light afterwards in the 7 mode progression. Source says “step down to second-highest mode”, that’s exactly what’s happening.
Just received my light and outta the box i noticed flickering on moonlight up till medium 2 mode. Any suggestions to rectify this?, cleaned all contacts and tightened everything back. Was using ncr18650B to test, will report when i test it again with 25R
Ordered my light 3d on 8/28 got an email that it would be back in stock on 9/8 just got another email from bang good saying that it (Should) be in stock on 9/11 hope they got all the problems worked out.
If it only affects moon, low, and med 1… that sounds like the 7135 chip isn’t working correctly.
You could try re-soldering the chip, or contact Banggood for service. There seem to be several people with a bad or badly-soldered 7135 chip. 
What a bummer, moonlight seems fine now, 2nd mode too...problem now is in 3rd mode and 4th mode. 3rd mode brightness no difference from 2nd mode, 4th mode flickers.
I'll run it on high and see whether the heat build up will help things out.
But aside from that its a really great light, didn't like the clip though, the extrusions are sharp and it hurt my palm when i grip the light, changed it out with a different pocket clip. For those interested, the olight S20 clip fits perfectly in the groove as well.
Hmm… that’s actually very interesting. I have a S10 Ti from back in 2012, and while its clip doesn’t look like much, it’s an extremely tight and sturdy clip. I’d expect the same high quality from the S20 clip.
Yesterday I received my 3D. Great light - tint, usability, power, everything is awesome. This is already my favorite flash. Thanks to whole team.
Minor, minor issues - anodization is in three different colors, clip is not the best i’ve seen and tube is little off-center. But this is not important for me at all.
:~
I’m still waiting mine, it’s a 1A…I’m nervous… :weary:
Has anyone noticed that once it heats up a bit you can’t cycle backwards through the modes / enter hidden blinky modes?
Or just mine?
My 5A arrived today. Generally very happy with it after reading so many horror stories and fearing the worst.
Fit and finish seems OK. I will put it through its paces over the next few days before trying to open the head or worry about braiding springs.
I just tested mine with two turbo sessions. Light hot but not scalding. Also lost the ability to step back for a minute or two until it had cooled down. With no step back, no blinkies or special modes available.
there is a temperatures related timing problem afair…
but i dont remember if it in- or decrease the time
Tested on a 1A and a 30Q so it heats up nice and fast. Medium presses get significantly shorter the hotter it gets. Only a tiny bit longer than a quick tap was a medium at the light’s hottest, anything longer than that would be considered a long press, which only functions with memory off. So while it’s tricky, everything is still available while the controller is hot.