Ouch, that answered a lot of questions.
No DTP on the stock aluminum then, that means we have to get copper in this for safety or it would have to have a boring very short turbo timer 
Was this with low resistance mods? if not do you think it would have ended the same if the springs where stock?
EDIT i guess 6.06A suggest it is with modded springs.
What did you think of the dedomed 2Cās hue?
Ok ok...no more. Can't stand the pain 
Hmm, i wonder if it is possible to redome a emitter? something like putting glob of silicone on it.
It would be very nice be able to just try dedoming some LED and if one donāt like the tint outcome you can just redome them 
Or maybe even redome them with a tint tune by mixing some watercolor paint in the siliconeā¦ā¦ā¦ :bigsmile:
yes, some greenish stuff because you became attached to the green dedomed tint ;-)
The springs are djozzās phosphor bronze springsā¦weāre trying to get them to use something like this in the production light. So, seeing 6.06A on the 20R I figured I should probably wire bypass the circuit board in the switch and go ahead with one on top. HOLY SHAPE SHIFTING BELLY DANCERS!
Ready for this? Bronze phosphor springs with wire bypasses, the 20R I have does 6.22A. So I stuck the newer LG HE-2 in itā¦6.89A! 1587 lumens out the front from this little tube light!
Edit: Maybe I can try re-doming with Norland 61?
First i have to say a massive LOL at HOLY SHAPE SHIFTING BELLY DANCERS! that gave me some really twisted visuals 
hehe it still does
Nice even more output this is the first i have read about a measured A improvement by bypassing the switch.
Are you sure that both the 20R & HE-2 where at max charge? because i always thought that the 20R was capable of more than the HE-2, you said the HE-2 where newer do you mean that your 20R is kind of worn so thats why it donāt measure up.
Can you put Norland 61 in a glob? i thought that was runny stuff.
EDIT 6.89A is crazy high, it looks like the high Vf of the new CREE maybe really only are on the xm-l2ās
This XM-L2 on a 16mm SinkPAD was in my kit with a bad hue. So it became a guinea pigā¦
Norland Optical Adhesive #61
Cured in seconds with the LEDENGIN 365UV emitter.
Nice looks almost like stock i canāt wait to hear how it will look.
Do you know what it was stock before the dedome, it looks kind of 1A or 2Aāish in phosphor color, at least something CW
One question about the Norland, when it has cured is it possible remove or uncure it? w ith some thinner, acetone or gas.
I wonder because i would really like to experiment with this kind of tint tuning but if you use something removable like a softer silicone you could maybe try different paint mixes.
EDIT I just compared with some stock domes, the Norland dome looks a little flatter, i wonder if that would make it only reverse the domes effect partially, so it doesnāt go 2-3 steps to the left but maybe half thatā¦ā¦
The Norland didnāt stick to the die/substrate. Itās like a piece of glass, but came off when I tried to mount it. Reckon it doesnāt like intense heat, which is something Iāve wondered about with folks putting trits in their fancy lights.
My 20Rās are older, probably a couple 2 or 3 years, and theyāve seen some hard use with direct drive MT-G2 and that kind of thing. So, while they charge up to 4.20 or 4.21V they donāt seem to quite have the Umph! that they used to have. Iāve moved away from em because of the lower capacity anyway.
Yeah, well, that just came out that way! lol I saw it heading for 7A and was afraid it was gonna blow. Still kinda scared to fire it upā¦
Thats to bad it was a very good test anyway.
Now we know that fully cured Norland doesnāt work for redoming.
How runny is it? maybe it is possible to cure it after it is mounted or not cure it at all or only a little (if that is even possible)
This 6,89A reading is this with the same LED you used for the original measurement ?
Maybe this particular LG HE-2 is a billy bada## or something, it pulls higher numbers than a Sony C5 and even does 13.52A in my XP-G2 Quad X6.
Edit: The 6.89A reading is with the XP-L that was in the light when I received it, but re-flowed to a 16mm Noctigon.
Edit II: I have in my notes that this LG HE-2 fresh off the charger did 6.08A at 1556 lumens in this light when I put the FET 1+ driver in it 3 days ago.
Ok so this is the stock XP-L, do we know what flux bin it is? sometimes it looks like the lower flux bins can pull higher A numbers in testing.
Can it i even blow it self like that? i have read here that it should be impossible to blow a well heatsinked DD on DTP copper? i thought that kind of thing would be a somewhat self limiting by the lower Volt possible when DD?
Most cases i read about people blowing lots of emitter is with buck or boost drivers.
I think youāre probably right, still kind of scared me though. Didnāt really feel like frying 2 nice emitters in that many minutes. (Done it before though, fried about 9 of the XM-L2 trying to hot rod a TK61 but yeah, that was a Buck driver)
> think that we will get there and get copper
Silly question perhaps but ā have you got a translator, with maybe a Periodic Table to point to, to make sure ācopperā translates correctly?
We all know what it means, but I have this fear that somewhere in some boondock some guyās going to get an order and think ābrassā ā¦
DBCstm, thanks for the stunning amount of work and effort youāve been putting into this!
OMG! I forgot to pick up my checkā¦
Itās that dang belly dancer! She got it, AGAIN!
I always say if you want to push the envelope failure is always an option :bigsmile:
It is not fun while it happen but i always learn from it, i almost canāt stop before i run it (almost whatever) to breaking point 
then when i know how i canāt do it then i can step back to sane levels J) and by that i mean a tiny bit from braking point :bigsmile:
6,89A + everything else that is special with this light, this is the kind of potential i spoke of earlier in this thread :bigsmile: if this doesnāt pull way over 500 i donāt know what will Ok maybe most will not do all required mods to get there but most should be able to do a relatively simple wire bypass.
@hank
It is Maxtoch that is making the mcpcb, the same one that did the BLF X6ās copper DTP mcpcb, you donāt have to worry i am pretty sure they know the difference
I have never read about that brass mcpcb have shown up anywhere, it is the darn copper pills and springs the Chinese keep confusing up with brass (and by confusing i mean trying to save a buck ;))
@Dale nice testing, thereās a ton of information there i almost hope somone who knows how does a chart of it, because it is almost a little hard to grasp all at ones.
One point i hope people get is that the light would never get that hot in the hand when using it.
Itās sitting upside down on a glass plate, surrounded by foam, with no air on it.