Thanks for the videos Dale.
Was it hotter than when it had a copper PCB? If thermal transfer was poorer with the aluminium PCB, I’m assuming it didn’t get as hot to hold as the copper one.
It is horrible to see it happen 
but you captured it on film so at least we can share your pain
I still hope it is possible to redome it…….
When I lifted it out of the lightbox it was already 120º, that was just what, 20-30 seconds? So yeah it was putting heat into the host.
Post 705 I believe, I explained that I bypassed the phosphor bronze springs as I was worried the switch pcb would fry. I had already explained putting the FET +1 driver in it, with a PSMNOR9 mosfet. (I think that’s right,) And it had 22ga silicone wires on the driver as a rule of thumb.
Carrying the current in a silicone wire pretty much does away with any issue of current in the spring, be it phosphor bronze or steel or whatever…I would think. The wire is now the current carrier. I will say that the wires I used were smaller than normal as I was not doing the soldering in my usual location.
I’m sorry, it was the dadgummed belly dancer again!
“So, seeing 6.06A on the 20R I figured I should probably wire bypass the circuit board in the switch and go ahead with one on top. HOLY SHAPE SHIFTING BELLY DANCERS!”
Darn it, it is all that belly dancers fault it just too hilarious 
I totally missed “go ahead with the one on top” they just shape shifts and wreaks my mind every time…….and i missed the “wire bypasses” statement right after….i guess i get really stupid when i laugh hard 
Sorry i just deleted the posts to much confusion on my part.
Hi can you put me down for one of these please in neutral if possible.
Just a quick note on progress… I put together a test host for development (using the driver we hope to use in the actual product), and I measured its highest and lowest modes (with a Samsung 25R cell at 4.12V):
- Turbo: 1285 lumens
- Moon: 0.34 lumens
So, it’s looking good! If the hardware gets built according to spec, this thing should be extremely versatile!
When DBCstm measured performance with a similar battery (20R), he got 1297 lumens on turbo. So, I think our meters are probably calibrated at least somewhat near the same.
I need help.
I want to buy batteries for flashlight BLF Eagle Eye A6.
which is better to be on the turbo mode?
LG INR18650MG1
LG ICR18650HE2
Samsung INR18650-29E
Samsung INR18650-25R
Panasonic NCR18650PF
LG HE2 (/HE4)
SAMSUNG 25R
What are the best batteries for hot rodding?
VTC5 >>> 25R > HE2
HE4 seems untested.
Add me for 1 in NW, pease.
Thanks!
im in for a CW
Bugsy36,
This proposal shows a lot of promise. Please include me in your interest list for 4 x NW.
I expect to invest in Efest 35A’s from RMM to ensure full use of this light in its upper range. I’m very pleased with the forecast for moonlight level as well though.
Will an Xtar MC1 charger be a good match for those cells?
I expect to gift light, cell, and charger combos as a complete set for some close friends/family.
Thanks!
cant wait.....
I thought efest 35a might of been the best after vtc5 got discontinued. I guess I was wrong.
All 4 added to the list :)
RMM would be the best person to ask about the battery/charger combo although I can say that Dale has demonstrated the quality of the Efest over and over.
bugsy36, i can’t get the link to Dale’s test to work in the OP, could you link to the url maybe instead of the direct link to the post, because those never work for me.