fwiw, there are Three potential modes of Initial Hardware failure on the TS10…
Metal shards on the TiCu version, getting onto the pill and causing the light to behave erratically, including sometimes turning on Turbo without pressing the button. This is how to fix it.
Non Responsive Tailswitch, caused by the inner body tube not being fully seated, so it cannot make contact with the driver, because the tailcap was not fully closed during assembly. This is how to fix it.
Those hardware issues are present when the light is first received. They do not reoccur once the proper fixes are performed.
Here are the Three most frequent Sofware complaints:
The Titanium TS10 RGB Aux lights flash an unexpected color, right after the light gets turned off. This is how to make that stop:
Another frequent complaint from a new Anduril user with a TS10, is that when they turn the main LEDs off, the Aux lights do not turn off. This is how to make the Aux lights turn off completely:
Operator says he cant change the Aux Brightness w 7C, this is why: Light needs to be in Advanced mode to change options:
instructions thanks to TheMagicalSock on Reddit:
"Don’t forget advanced UI! I’ve had TS10s ship in simple and TS10s ship in advanced. If it’s in simple mode, you won’t be able to access all the menus and features.
How do you know if you’re in simple mode? 3C from off will bring up voltage check, and in simple mode, the voltage will blink out one time and then turn off. In advanced mode, the voltage readout will loop indefinitely. (Until clicked off)
To get to advanced mode from simple, do ten clicks and hold on the tenth (10H) from off. A short blink will confirm you’re in advanced mode."
Recently purchased yet another TS10. Faulty switch which they quickly replaced. The replacement arrived and when I went to install battery The bezel turns which I thought was glued?
there are multiple reports that the bezels on Titanium TS10 were loose and not glued
there are also multiple reports that bezels on other variants of TS10 are heavily glued and very difficult to open
You should tighten the bezel on your light… Before turning the bezel, make sure the Optic is pressed down and secure in its mounting holes.
Do not to let the Optic rotate when turning the bezel.
There are multiple reports of Ti bezels that unscrewed inadvertently during an intended removal of the head for a battery change. When the bezel unscrews far enough, the legs of the optic can lift off their mounting holes in the mcpcb, and then drag across the LEDs, destroying them.
Thanks for putting this together, Jon! This is super helpful to have all the info in one place.
People should keep in mind you only hear about the ones that don’t work. The defect rate may not be any different from other lights but by sheer volume of units sold we’re bound to see more reports of failures (and I’m guessing they have sold a lot of them).
In my experience, with five of them (I think…), they’ve all worked fine. They’re great lights and I wouldn’t be dissuaded from buying more, especially since Wurkkos seems to be doing a good job of replacing defective ones.
