Gotta confess, getting a kick out of your username.
I keep hearing Dr Smith calling The Robot a “garrulous gargoyle”, as well as a “bubble-headed booby”.
I feel the same way about the LH351 its way to green for my liking but yet i do like the green hue i get from Luminus LEDs strange. I think Luminus hit the mark with price, performance and tint.
Cree does a decent job with high CRI LEDs probably the most even tint overall? I don’t have the equipment to test tints so this could all be in my head lol.
Odd. I’ve had greener 219Cs than 351s.
I still like the 4C Ls/L2s I got in my tubelights. “Warm sunlight”, sez me.
But nothing beats the nice creamy MT-G2s I got.
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Wow have not heard that name in a while MTG2 lol, we now have a good choice of drivers to run the MTG2. Actually i have one here in a broken light i might put it in my S11 see how it goes but the GT FC40 it comes with is good.
Wonder if Cree would release a new MTG.
Controversial opinion: Hot takes are garbage.
As a practice, it’s designed to invite conflict to maximize engagement… and at a societal scale, that’s like eating food you’re allergic to, in order to get a reaction. Those reactions are an important part of the body’s functioning, but people are a lot healthier when not invoking those reactions on purpose.
As for the LEDs, it’s awesome when people are happiest with the frozen meatloaf. I really dig some “cheap” stuff too, and regard it as better than the “good” stuff. But personally, I have a strong dislike for green tints at 4000K. At that CCT, it needs a negative duv in order to look “neutral” to me. I’m fine with green in cool white lights though.
… and though individual taste varies wildly, the population average seems to follow a similar curve for what types of light look “right”: positive duv at 6000K, zero duv at 5000K, negative duv at 4000K. The perceptual white line doesn’t follow the blackbody radiator line. So there are some efforts in progress (last I heard) to revise the ANSI white standard, to follow the perceptual line instead of BBL.
LED manufacturers don’t seem too happy about it though, since green tints are a lot easier to get big numbers from. Green light emitters get more lumens per Watt. So they tend to manufacture green tints in order to optimize for lumens instead of making neutral tints to optimize for beam quality. It’s cheaper and gets bigger numbers.
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Nichia 219B comes in so many different variations. The tint might be affected by the driver, reflector, lens or optic used.
Image credit: @azhu [original post].
Anecdotally, the Nichia 219B sw45k D200 that I bought from @Bob_McBob and swapped into a Wurkkos WK01 looks too rosy for my liking.
On the other hand, a Nichia 219B sw45k D220 looks pretty neutral in a ReyLight Pineapple Mini [comparison].
I personally prefer a beam that is close to neutral.
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I think there’s better leds, but I love the MT-G2 4000k in my D1v2, the tint and color rendering is exceptionally nice for a 80cri Cree.
I agree. The 219b’s to me are irritating at best. In the beam shots above they are all pink. If you have to add red to see red then is it really red. Makes no sense. I like a good clean neutral. Hard to get I understand but, I’d rather keep searching than settle for more pink or less pink. I’ve had good luck with 219c’s. Probably the tint lottery thing.
Hey, whatever you like, like it. Low CRi and cool white work for some people who, just need light. High CRi with different DUV, RA…whatever is fine too. They both still light stuff up. I don’t look at my food with flashlights before I eat it and I don’t need to see the exact color of the leaves that surround game at 200 yards. I just like to see things.
“People don’t want ¼ in drills. They want ¼ in holes.”
I do like the 219B, but I get it, not everyone else does. I never found any of mine to be “too pink”, though.
I do have actual pink LEDs, though, and one mounted in a pink '501, yet.
Perfect timing for the B’harbi movie, too, I guess.
Picture exists, but the listing’s defunct:
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I never understood why 219b was so popular. I might even prefer the ugly green to the pink hue. The pink just seemed out of place to me. I agree that the mtg2 was a much better choice at the time.
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This is all a simulation anyway, none of this matters.
For what it’s worth, I happen to agree.
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I would think that’s ironic, that Pinky doesn’t like pink beams… but, well, I’m green and I don’t like green-tinted LEDs.
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Funny. I didn’t get this name from being tickled pink either… honest 
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My favorite colors are certain shades of blue and green, but maybe ironically I don’t like blue or green tinted LEDs.
(I prefer warmer tints for LEDs.)
Also, I agree with you on hot takes.
I watch a sports program called Pardon the Interruption, and the hosts of that show usually think poorly of all the hot takes that people take on sports matters, and there are tons of hot takes taken on sports.
I generally agree with the hosts of the that show–they know what they’re talking about. 
I hate greenish tint like you and with all LED’s I see and used I know the 219 are not the best…but… the 219B SW35 for now and for me are the best color tint I have and I see for now. A middle tint not cold, not warm like 2700. For me they are perfect.
yes, I know they are inefficient, so hot with pumped Amps and probably not useful for “searching” flashlight but they are absolutely not garbage
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It’s just not possible to say I hate 219b. I fi don’t like the Sw45k, but there are also very neutral 219b’s and even 219b’s with a bit of green in them.
I still really like most SW30’s. But maybe I am a bit nostalgic.
Same goes for the other emitters. There are a lot of ugly sst20’s out there, but I have had some great ones also.
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Every LED mentioned here comes in tints from “pink” to “green”. You can’t judge a whole LED series based on a single sample, or even several samples from the same tint bin.
I have plenty of LH351Ds w/ negative duv. Most of these required a dome shave to get into negative, but once shaved they are some of my best tints. But some of them started negative duv w/o adjustment.
I have several SST-20s with negative duv. They also like a dome shave to reduce the duv. What I don’t like about the SST-20 is the strong tint change over current drive. They tend to have a much higher duv at low current.
The 219b is one of the more consistent LEDs. Many have a negative duv and the tint doesn’t change much until overdriven. I don’t like tints too pink (duv < -0.0050) and there are plenty out there that have a positive duv.
Nichia 519A is my new favorite. I like it because it is flexible. It comes in lots of CCTs and can be tuned by shaving or removing the dome. It can take a lot of current and the tint shift is minimal. But guess what? Every batch is different. The LEDs from clemence are tighter binning and have been great. Other sources have had a lot more variability. My only stock light with a 519A has a duv of +0.0030. Much higher than my “tuned” LH351Ds. Does that make the 519A garbage?
FB
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Can you pick the 219b out? How about the LH351D?
The differences you see in this photo are only noticeable because they are side by side. I can’t tell them apart when turning them on one at a time. Tint range from 3800k to 4100k and duv from -0.0010 to -0.0040. (opple 3 data)
FB
I agree completely. My comment was mostly tongue-in-cheek. But personally, with 519A now, I don’t feel the need to ever try a LH351D again.