Don’t get it with its 30 second timer on Turbo unless you are happy to continuously be double clicking.
Yes, but my hunts are (always) over in a few shots- so 30 seconds is plenty of time. I LIKE that the C8G driver does hold its highest ramp point in it’s memory too (thought it WAS turbo?). I don’t like that one of my three C8G’s “rings” though. If they sell a host for it (like the C8F), I’d probably by a Lexel driver I can select a single mode on.
What was cool about my old C8F hosts (18650s) is that they went right into 1” scope ring mounts, and one high drain battery could run the three LEDs direct driven on some 18g leads- so no driver needed. I built FIVE of those the last 2 1/2 years and run 25Rs or 20S’s in them. The C8G “concept” is still experimental… I need to built the FET tail switch for the pressure switch Lan sent me last month. But my 125 tomato plants (twin vines per plant/now 8-9 ft tall on twine) is kicking off 200+ lbs a week— so I’ve been busy with that!
So you can hunt deer at night? - cool!!! We go to jail if we do that
My 260ai caliber custom rifle can make an ethical kill at 600 yards on a still deer… on a still day… off a still (and solid) rest But now the Creedmore can also do that with better factory ammo as of late— so I get you have these hunters needing super range.
My use for your light here would be on a coyote across a 1/2 mile long field. It would be on a high power rifle since the typical AR-15 platform doesn’t work at that range (it can’t deliver the required ft/lbs. needed at the deer). It would be mounted to the bottom of the forestock (never the barrel). But as coyotes are plenty fun to pop at 300 yards (and that and pigs are all I can hunt at night), I’d probably BUY this light- but not use it for hunting.
I’d LOVE to live and hunt in your great country! But I am cheap re. paying for guides when I can hang out on public land for long enough and “kill my own” thank you ;). The “pros and cons” of living on ranches 1/2 my life
My question is why hunt deer at those ranges day or night. Around here they practically knock on your door.
Probably rut season. You been messing with my woman. Either come out or I’m coming in.
Or he could be a Jehovie…
For clarification they’re going to be used for searching as well. I’ll have a quick release mount installed on the rifle
It’s better to have the extra distance so it’s brighter at a closer range
At the moment I have a mount for the Astrolux FT03 but it’s quite bulky
In West Texas I once saw a man shoot a deer at 1200 yards with a 7mm Weatherby Mag. That guy never left the ranch his whole life
I’ve shoot a handful out over 600 yards or so. Out west, average shots start about 150 yards and 350 is considered a long shot. But with a very good scope on enough rifle (using hand loads we develop JUST for that rifle), getting out past 500 is repeatable given no wind. Some of us can also dail windage (or hold for wind with practice) and if it’s steady and pretty slow still, we can hit a deer at 500 pretty regular.
But never shot one on my front doorstep yet
A lot less dragging when shot from the front porch Shots around here are under 100 yards unless you set up on some farm fields and then maybe 150 yards. Most hunt from tree stands so it could be shorter even. Although most use more modern rounds, not too long ago 30-30s were still common.Those long range shots out west amaze me. A guy I used to know went out west, I forget the state, shot a elk across a canyon with a 264 Win Mag. He used to practice on chucks around here at some crazy distances. My hunting days are over but if I needed meat it would be out the window with a 22lr to the head.
Couldn’t agree more, I love headshots- NO meat loss! Then you just need a sharp knife
…oh and ya, uh… maybe an SP40 or my super old floppy-ass C8 headlamp— to see where you need to after the kill.
Is the surface of the previous design too smooth? How about changing to the following?
That’s much better then a smooth body. I prefer knurling
C8+ knurling is my favorite.
I was wondering why was the #1 design so smooth and without cooling fins.
But then I realized you are a designing a purely weapon mounted light for hunting. So makes no difference.
But the knurling on #2 design look nicer
Will the lighter L21A be able to come with the XHP35 HI still?
I’m new here, just posted in the general info forum looking for a light something like this. Something like this with XHP70.2 and a forward clicky switch seems just what I’ve been looking for, so long as it’s happy with the rigors of living on a rifle. I could use several of something like that. I don’t know enough about lights yet to know what sort of emitters you’re talking about above, though.
I’ve had two dead Olights, a ho-hum Nitecore P30, same with a couple from Fenix. Simple, long throw, bright light, momentary or constant on with the switch… for my needs, I would want to be able to cycle the switch momentarily within seconds, without changing the light output or mode or whatever.
A forward clicky would be horrible for the 12 mode group firmware or anything else that uses multiple groups.
How is momentary useful on a rifle? It requires a hold of the switch, not sure how that’s possible when using a rifle.
How does that work? You mean activate momentary without it cycling the modes?. I still don’t understand how you’d do that on the gun.
Simon has moved to reverse clicky versions which works better for most. You could always get a remote pressure switch for that kind of thing or simply install a forward switch
The Osram leds are for very long ranges that have a very tight focused beam, not much flood at all.
My use will be just for lining up a shot, not really searching off the gun since there’s other lights better suited like the L21A
Everyone’s got different ways of accomplishing the same goals, eh I had a good chuckle when I saw some pics online of lights mounted way the heck on top of rifle scopes, that’s nuts to me. It’s up in no-man’s land and directly in line of sight?! lol My rifles all have free-floated rails, and the lights are mounted 9 o’clock high… when gripping the rail/forestock, my thumb naturally falls directly onto the tail switch. I have three rifles with three different lights set up that way… love the interface, not so much the lights I have.
Works great! Just like you, I’m just using the light to line up a shot, and to verify that it’s clean. Light ’er up, shoot, light out. Hand-held light for everything else as needed. For a strictly task-oriented application, I don’t see the sense in having a bunch of different modes. It’s kinda great being able to move from target to target without cycling to progressively lower outputs or leaving the light on continuously.
I really don’t like remote pressure switches. They add another component that can fail, more complexity and clutter. I like to keep it clean and simple. From cruising around here, it sounds like they tend to have parasitic drain on the battery, too? Or maybe I’m misunderstanding that.
You guys are wearing off on me though. I currently have no idea how to go about modding lights, but, um, yup, I might have to start playing around with swapping switches/drivers/emitters and whatever other voodoo is in those little monster torches! Shoot, if I could find a tailcap switch for my old M22, I’d be up a light (a Fenix remote pressure switch threaded on, but it was too deep). Might just be time to frankenstein my own lil torch!
Edit: I tried to upload a couple of pics of the technique, but it looks like I need a URL, can’t load directly from my computer?
That is the way I mount my rifle/shotgun lights. While mine are for home defense, they operate the same. 9 o’clock on the forearm puts the thumb where it can half press for momentary on or full press for full on. I can quickly remove the light with the flip of of a lever for hand carry. No wires or clutter.