Mozartkugel.
I have a Convoy L2 with an XP-L2 emitter, and I’d like to modify it for maximum sustainable output. I don’t have any previous modding experiouns so I’m looking for some suggestions about how to go about it.
It looks like the XP-L2 can be driven to about 5A before the the efficiency starts to drop significantly. Would the L2 be able to dissipate enough heat to maintain that current indefinitely?
Assuming I can run around 5A indefinitely, can anyone recommend a suitable regulated driver?
I’m considering a Texas Avenger driver, but the 22mm version only has nine 7135s, which I assume would provide between 3.15A and 3.42A depending on the components. Could I just stack some more 7135s on?
Stacking works, yes. Remember that 5A wont’ run “indefinitely” as you’ll be pretty much limited to a 5500mAh cell which would be theoretically capable of one hour and a bit at that power level.
Thanks Dale. I realise runtime will be a bit limitaed a 5A, but I’m after high output that doesn’t require any thermal management (manual or automatic).
I assume that with a TA driver I’ll be limited to one cell, is that right?
Hey to all,
Just recieved a stock L6, but one of the rings is shredded. Any chance on getting measurements for the tube section o-rings? Thickness? Outer diameter? Inner Diameter? Thinking of getting some good quality viton. Heck, might as well change out the bezel/lens o-rings with viton while I’m at it. Wish they included spare o-rings.
Thanks!
I was thinking about this light, and I think the reason the beam intensity was not as high as I expected was because the dedomes were not complete. I had tried hot-dedoming for the first time and I guess I didn’t do a great job.
To maximise the performance of this light I decided to go with dedomed SST40 emitters and a lower IR cell (aspire 4300mAh 26650).
I had some trouble dedoming the SST40s. Gas dedoming separated the dome from the phosphor cleanly, but the bond wires would not survive. I ended up slicing them very closely with a razor. I left silicone around the bond wires so the result looked a bit like in this thread.
It pulls around 19A (measured using a 10mOhm shunt in place of the tail cap). It does around 215Kcd and I estimate 5000 lumens.
I’m very happy with it now and I think this will be its final form.
Hi …Any advice to make L2 XPL HI hotter than stock without spend too much ? Looking for new driver for 1s/2s with XPL but can’t find one (I’m not in US).
So found this H2-C http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026504.H2-C-22mm-1_5A-1-or-2-cell-5-Mode-Boost-Driver-Circuit-Board-for-Cree-XHP35-XHP50-12Vd interesting for XHP 35 but with some concerns .
-How to make this with 22 mm. fit 20 mm. space of L2 or just sanding a bit ?
-How many lumens/kcd can I expect for 1.5A(60 sec)/1A with XHP 35 HI on DTP copper ?
Or any better option than this one ? …Thanks
Hello! Sorry for a noob question, if i order XHP70.2 from kaidomain and swap it to my otherwise stock L6 would there be any gain in lumens? I’m using blue liitokala 26650s.
I “modded” my L2 with a piece of my daughter’s rubbery teething rings. I used it to extend the nub on the switch boot to reach a standard reverse clicky from another convoy (M1/S2/etc).
Dale’s KISS method…
Got a wild hair today, made a spacer for an MT-G2 to fit under the Ledil Carmen in my L6, works pretty nice, respectably small hot spot from Cree’s largest emitter. 
Not really. It’s real advantages are a smoother hot spot and its tougher so it can withstand higher amps which put out higher lumens.
Technically it’s a tiny bit more efficient, but I doubt you will notice that with your bare eye.
Would a SMO reflector with dedomed xhp70 give a nice beam profile? And is it worth it to get xhp70.2 and also dedome it or will the difference be to minimal?
Worth it to go with a 70.2 and a smooth reflector AND get an FET driver made just for this light by Richard at MTN Electronics.
I put one together for a friend yesterday and it makes 9500 lumens. 
The 70 does not have such a nice beam profile with the SMO. It’s okay, though. Both dome on and dome off are a bit dark in the center. I lost too much lumen with the sliced dome so went back to a dome on.
The 70.2 has a much nicer hot spot with less of a dark center. I like it so much that I have not wanted to slice the dome off.
I didn’t take a picture of the sliced dome xhp70 at lower exposure, but I do have this shot that compares them. You can see that you gets smaller hot spot, but you still see the donut hole pattern.
.
Simon should sell a version of the L6 with 70.2, SMO reflector and FET driver. Maybe pair it with NarsilM and a good thermal stepdown. I’m sure he would sell a bunch.
BTW, Richard doesn’t carry Narsil, but he does carry something similar. RampingIOS. If you want Narsil you have to get a driver from Lexel.
Where did you get this? If it’s not too expensive I’d like to try one out on my L6.
Got it from Digi-Key, had it for a while so of course my memory draws a fat blank on what I paid. “(Ledil Carmen at Digi-Key, $7.63)”:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ledil/CP15774_CARMEN-S-C/711-1403-ND/6674592
The height is not as much as the stock reflector, I cut a spacer at 16.xx mm to adapt it. This was allowing about a 6mm gap between the MCPCB and base of the optic for optimized hot spot with my choice of MT-G2 emitter.
Thanks, is that the tightest hot spot you’ve gotten with a MT-G2?
Pretty much, yes. I put an MT-G2 in my Nitecore TM03 with it’s very deep hybrid reflector and that one makes a decent beam as well, other than that, it’s fairly unusual to get a tight beam from such a large emitter.
Edit: Within the confines of the house the beam from the L6/Carmen is about 2/3 the size as the beam from the TM03. The spill is less from the Carmen optic, so the hot spot is more defined. This is the stock driver in the L6 and it’s pulling about 4.2A from the 2 26350 cells, output is 2042 lumens and the light really doesn’t heat up.
Woh that sure sounds great i got two 26650 protected keeppower 5200 mah in my l6 now do i need to get some unprotected?(like the blue litokola or something like that)