Convoy L2/L6 modding thread

I have an L2 with 4 26350’s powering the XHP-35 and it works fine. Like it quite a bit actually. :slight_smile:

Thanks again guys.

Normally I’d prefer something around 4500-5000K, but those numbers are pretty compelling! It looks like the SST-40 will give the balance of throw, spill and output that I was hoping to get from the L2.

I’ve ordered a couple from Kaidomain, now I just have to wait…

Heat :smiley:

Awww man…. poor guy…… :open_mouth: … but I like the result! :smiley:

If anyone was looking for a good battery charger for a pair of 26650 cells, the Xtar SV2 Rocket is on sale at illumn for $19. It can charge two cells at 2 amps each. Perfect for the L6.

Hey, if anyone here is interested, Texas_Ace is going to build a limited run of calibrated Lumen Tubes/Spheres (with no math involved!) for those that want to measure their modded L6 or L2 or any other lights actual output. More details are here.

Just spreading the word around. Lol

Has anybody put an LED on a 16mm pcb in their L6? Is there anything I should know? Did you still new screw holes?

The screws prevent the mcpcb from rotating when you screw on the bezel. With no screws you might try holding the glass still while you tighten the bezel watching to make sure the led doesn’t turn.

You loose cooling ability or heat transfer speed with the smaller mcpcb. So if your driver is not too high an output I guess it should work okay.

I want to use a pcb from Clemence, he doesn’t offer quad pcbs in 20mm. The LEDs wont be at their max, so the size of the pcb will not influence the performance in a meaningful way.

I don’t have an L6 but I imagine clearance between the MCPCB solder points and reflector may be an issue with the smaller MCPCB?

Trying to wrap my mind around a 20mm Quad in an L6, begs the question…. why?

I am a high-cri nice-tint no-yellow/green-corona preferably-4000K snob ;). The Nicha E21A 4000K R9080 seems perfect! I also prefer a very floody beam in this light. The wide spacing of the emitters on Clemence’s pcb will help with that.

I think you should buy this instead and put some LH351Ds/219Cs/219Bs:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-20MM-led-Cooper-PCB-Board-Led-Heatsink-Thermal-Separation-Led-Lamp-Base-For-4D-Cree/32812824554.html

Use a high CRI XHP-70, I got one from Cutter a while back that had a really nice tint and the 70 is pretty floody in the orange peel reflector of the L6.

Oh yeah, Zak Wilson actually did a mod with his Acebeam L30 using this emitter:
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/xhp70a-01-0000-0d0uj445g/cree

He shaved it, and then sanded down the surface with 800 grit sandpaper, then with 2000 grit sandpaper to finish it off.

Post about it:
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/7ubxuo/emitter_swap_shaved_90_cri_4500k_3step_easywhite/

Makes for a Nichia XHP70 sized 144AM, or like 149AM.

Also, if you want a high CRI XHP50, here it is:
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/xhp50a-00-0000-0d0uf440g/cree

Wow, what do you use the L2 4x26650 for?

Probably using an XHP35HI, no? That would be the only easy way to use a buck converter with it.

I meant what does he use the light for since it’s so long and I’m guessing a bit difficult to hold. It reminds me of the ridiculously long versions of the maglites some people keep in their car for self-defense.

A mini BLF GT?
Haha.

I can’t remember what country he’s in, but I think it’s one of those European countries that doesn’t allow you to carry a firearm. So it certainly might be for self defense.

It also might have been built before 26350 cells were commonly available.