Nylon should be good up to at least 300°F. When I ran an extruder 4 decades ago I remember running it at 400+°F to have it soft enough to extrude. (think of a cookie press, but continuous, or like toothpaste coming out of a tube)
Just add an extension tube and run it with a stock driver (maybe even resistor-modded for lower current) and four cells?
Tom said that narsil was setup for dual switch lights in the firmware but never having used it myself I can’t say for sure.
This is my plan IF I can find a buck driver for it that outputs a reasonable current. The stated max for the stock driver is 8.4V, not sure if it will make it to twice that, I have a feeling the caps will freak if nothing else.
Now 2S with a 3V led is a bit more reasonable, I give it 50/50 odds on that working. Although if it did, why not put that int he specs. So no idea what to expect in reality.
Ok, adding some LDO versions, The 30mm version should be a drop in replacement for the L6 driver.
TA-LDO series - Here are some versions of the existing drivers with an added LDO option
These LDO versions of the drivers are mostly for e-switch lights that will be used in 2s or more configuration. Zeners cause a lot of excess battery drain when the light is “off” with e-switch drivers.
You can bypass the LDO by putting a normal SOD-323 diode across the furthest right LDO pins, with the line pointed towards the MCU.
The added R6 and R7 resistors are either 0 ohm jumpers or R7 can have a small resistor installed to correct for a C2 cap with the wrong ESR.
C2 also needs to be increased to 10uF, you can use the same one as you do on C1.
C1 must also have a cap rated for the full voltage you will be using!
Besides that they are exactly the same as the rest of the Texas Avengers drivers, just with less edge clearance for a given size due to the LDO.
Oshpark link for 30mm version: OSH Park ~
30mm version
Nice! So I’m to understand that you would run 8+1 7135 chips with the mosfet unpopulated or use an mosfet +1 chip and leave the top side unpopulated of chips, one or the other, right?
Well sort of right on both counts.
The correct answer is that you populate ALL the 7135’s (well as many as you desire for your current goal on high) and the firmware takes care of the rest. It is a triple channel driver and uses all 3 channels as needed to get optimal performance.
The single 7135 for moon and low modes.
The bank of 7135’s on the bottom for med to high modes
And of course the FET for turbo and ultra high modes.
You have the amazing Narsil firmware for e-switch lights with tons of options.
The clicky firmware is Bistro re-done and tweaked for triple channels. It should have 31 mode groups when completed and it is hoped that it will allow for 95%+ of people to have the perfect setup without needing to get into the raw code.
Anyone with a mode group idea, please post it here: Bistro for Texas Avenger drivers officially released! Still taking suggestions for future mode groups
You can also leave the bottom side 7135’s off if you desire, there are mode groups that ignore those and treat the driver just like a normal FET+1 setup.
Basically just like the thread in my sig says, the Texas Avenger drivers are setup to be the only driver you need for flashlight building. They are also 100% open source to allow for any changes you may desire to be easily implemented.
The main Texas Avenger driver thread is here: Texas Avenger "TA" Driver series - Triple channel + Bistro or Narsil + Clicky or E-switch - The Ultimate open source driver!
Ahhhhh, I see, so it’s more efficient in all 3 zones. Gotcha.
+1
The amount of information available on this forum keeps me very busy; my appreciation to all who contribute to my growing education here. 
Correct, in all but turbo for most lights you will have full regulation and even no PWM for most modes. Thus giving you the highest possible efficiency and performance from a linear based driver.
If there is demand I can order some of the boards from oshpark along with the components to build them and sell a few assembled and flashed.
They would be a little pricier then some drivers due to the size and extra components though.
Rough guess without looking up the exact parts cost is $15-20 each.
I’m more worried about shipping rates from US to Italy, to be honest…
Yeah, sadly it is not cheap to ship from the US for whatever reason. Looks like the cheapest shipping cost to italy is, is around $13 unless shipping by normal mail with no tracking, guaranty ect.
I’m thinking about buying some unpopulated boards and bare components and upgrade my working station with a hot air solder I found some for about 50 euros and will be handy in future too…
Yeah, hot air reflowing is actually quite simple, easily then through hole soldering for sure.
I use a cheap station I got off ebay for $40-45 that is a combo soldering iron and hot air gun. Works great! Well worth the cost.
Gaggione Optics has a bunch that are that probably size… and lots bigger. 
I received the clear L6 and i have to say i’m a bit disappointed.
It does not look anything close to bare aluminum, titanium or stainless steel, brushed or polished… The more i look at it the more it feels like ‘painted’ with a cheap silver spray paint. It is mate and grainy, it almost looks fake, like a ‘silver plastic’ of some sort. I’m trying hard to get used to it but it’s not working so far. 
What a bummer because I have one on order. I originally wasn’t sure if I liked it because of the grainy texture, but It seems people are really liking it so I took a chance. Hopefully I’m not sorry
That is very disappointing to say the least. I guess I will wait to see what others have to say. Hopefully they fix this and then I will make my purchase.
I got my clear yesterday. I will be honest, because I believe in honesty. It looks the way it looks on pictures, and my first reaction was the same as that of patmurris; it looks spray painted. But I sincerely love it, simply for the knowledge that it isn’t spray painted. It is the real colour of aluminium. The combination of the bead blasting (I think), which results in the dimples, and the clear anodisation, which gives the surface its shine, results in a look as if it’s spray painted.
But this is the true appearance of aluminium, and therefore I love it.