Nice! So I’m to understand that you would run 8+1 7135 chips with the mosfet unpopulated or use an mosfet +1 chip and leave the top side unpopulated of chips, one or the other, right?
Well sort of right on both counts.
The correct answer is that you populate ALL the 7135’s (well as many as you desire for your current goal on high) and the firmware takes care of the rest. It is a triple channel driver and uses all 3 channels as needed to get optimal performance.
The single 7135 for moon and low modes.
The bank of 7135’s on the bottom for med to high modes
And of course the FET for turbo and ultra high modes.
You have the amazing Narsil firmware for e-switch lights with tons of options.
The clicky firmware is Bistro re-done and tweaked for triple channels. It should have 31 mode groups when completed and it is hoped that it will allow for 95%+ of people to have the perfect setup without needing to get into the raw code.
Anyone with a mode group idea, please post it here: Bistro for Texas Avenger drivers officially released! Still taking suggestions for future mode groups
You can also leave the bottom side 7135’s off if you desire, there are mode groups that ignore those and treat the driver just like a normal FET+1 setup.
Basically just like the thread in my sig says, the Texas Avenger drivers are setup to be the only driver you need for flashlight building. They are also 100% open source to allow for any changes you may desire to be easily implemented.
The main Texas Avenger driver thread is here: Texas Avenger "TA" Driver series - Triple channel + Bistro or Narsil + Clicky or E-switch - The Ultimate open source driver!
Ahhhhh, I see, so it’s more efficient in all 3 zones. Gotcha.
+1
The amount of information available on this forum keeps me very busy; my appreciation to all who contribute to my growing education here. 
Correct, in all but turbo for most lights you will have full regulation and even no PWM for most modes. Thus giving you the highest possible efficiency and performance from a linear based driver.
If there is demand I can order some of the boards from oshpark along with the components to build them and sell a few assembled and flashed.
They would be a little pricier then some drivers due to the size and extra components though.
Rough guess without looking up the exact parts cost is $15-20 each.
I’m more worried about shipping rates from US to Italy, to be honest…
Yeah, sadly it is not cheap to ship from the US for whatever reason. Looks like the cheapest shipping cost to italy is, is around $13 unless shipping by normal mail with no tracking, guaranty ect.
I’m thinking about buying some unpopulated boards and bare components and upgrade my working station with a hot air solder I found some for about 50 euros and will be handy in future too…
Yeah, hot air reflowing is actually quite simple, easily then through hole soldering for sure.
I use a cheap station I got off ebay for $40-45 that is a combo soldering iron and hot air gun. Works great! Well worth the cost.
Gaggione Optics has a bunch that are that probably size… and lots bigger. 
I received the clear L6 and i have to say i’m a bit disappointed.
It does not look anything close to bare aluminum, titanium or stainless steel, brushed or polished… The more i look at it the more it feels like ‘painted’ with a cheap silver spray paint. It is mate and grainy, it almost looks fake, like a ‘silver plastic’ of some sort. I’m trying hard to get used to it but it’s not working so far. 
What a bummer because I have one on order. I originally wasn’t sure if I liked it because of the grainy texture, but It seems people are really liking it so I took a chance. Hopefully I’m not sorry
That is very disappointing to say the least. I guess I will wait to see what others have to say. Hopefully they fix this and then I will make my purchase.
I got my clear yesterday. I will be honest, because I believe in honesty. It looks the way it looks on pictures, and my first reaction was the same as that of patmurris; it looks spray painted. But I sincerely love it, simply for the knowledge that it isn’t spray painted. It is the real colour of aluminium. The combination of the bead blasting (I think), which results in the dimples, and the clear anodisation, which gives the surface its shine, results in a look as if it’s spray painted.
But this is the true appearance of aluminium, and therefore I love it.
Mine looks like the photograph, and I doubt it is ‘painted on’.
Take off the tail-cap and the head and take a look.
I don’t think they’re saying that it looks like spray paint, but that the appearance is one of spray paint.
Sorry if my ‘spray paint’ comment was confusing.
I’m confident it is NOT spray paint… but it looks like it.
The grain is somewhat coarse compared to brushed or polished metal. I put together a bunch of ‘silver’ objects - knife, ss or chromed lights and other things… and in the middle the L6 looks like a plastic toy.
I’m interested in other opinions as i feel embarrassed to dislike it so much.
My first reaction was also a bit of disappointment over the texture, although the L6 looks better in the pictures then the C8 for some reason.
I personally would prefer mine andoed over the raw machined aluminium. I actually like to see the machining marks personally and I think the naked L6 that was posted was so sexy.