Himself…? Realy? With all those free unemployed ppl in China? Woah… he must assemble torches like 36/7 then … its unimaginable realy…himself!
My respect to Simon just raised great time
The default driver wont work as it is with a 3v emitter, already tried that Yet i will figure a way out pretty shortly…it has a very good and balanced modes, 99% of people including me would never need anything else…especialy wht the SMO reflector we will need it
Btw, the SMO L6 driven by a Fet DD and a U4 0D( BLFers would love its tint after dedoming) emitter gives 340k mcds( at 4.5amps): the SMO reflector needs more tunning to be perfect, even as it is good enough
what you have planned for the clear ano l6? i highly doubt you can beat the mods you have done with your original l6.
dont you have a thrower l6 also? so you have a high lumen and a decent thrower. what’s next?
i do really love the look of that clear ano l6 though……maybe id get one since i dont even have a l6 yet!
I’m thinking about the clear L6. Something I haven’t done before, which is where the fun is. A large TIR? A triple XHP-35? Something, don’t know yet. Liking the sound of the triple XHP-35, direct drive on 4 cells? Interesting.
If you find a TIR that large I would love to see it, the one that MTN sells is as close as I have seen but it is designed for much shallower setups then this.
I love ramping firmware, but I also like having tactical momentary that the rear “forward” clicky provides in the stock firmware. This way you can do quick little blasts of light without changing modes.
Doea TK’s ramping firmware allow this? Im pretty sure narsil wont, if you momentarily cut power with the rear button, you’ll need to turn it back on with the side button.
I’ve thought about that Carclo, really I have. Shallower is fine, lets me add a bunch of copper under the emitter. I have a 50mm Khatod triple that should do well, can’t easily find a 62mm but I’ll think of something.
Nylon should be good up to at least 300°F. When I ran an extruder 4 decades ago I remember running it at 400+°F to have it soft enough to extrude. (think of a cookie press, but continuous, or like toothpaste coming out of a tube)
Tom said that narsil was setup for dual switch lights in the firmware but never having used it myself I can’t say for sure.
This is my plan IF I can find a buck driver for it that outputs a reasonable current. The stated max for the stock driver is 8.4V, not sure if it will make it to twice that, I have a feeling the caps will freak if nothing else.
Now 2S with a 3V led is a bit more reasonable, I give it 50/50 odds on that working. Although if it did, why not put that int he specs. So no idea what to expect in reality.
Ok, adding some LDO versions, The 30mm version should be a drop in replacement for the L6 driver.
TA-LDO series - Here are some versions of the existing drivers with an added LDO option
These LDO versions of the drivers are mostly for e-switch lights that will be used in 2s or more configuration. Zeners cause a lot of excess battery drain when the light is “off” with e-switch drivers.
You can bypass the LDO by putting a normal SOD-323 diode across the furthest right LDO pins, with the line pointed towards the MCU.
The added R6 and R7 resistors are either 0 ohm jumpers or R7 can have a small resistor installed to correct for a C2 cap with the wrong ESR.
C2 also needs to be increased to 10uF, you can use the same one as you do on C1.
C1 must also have a cap rated for the full voltage you will be using!
Besides that they are exactly the same as the rest of the Texas Avengers drivers, just with less edge clearance for a given size due to the LDO.