Well I hear you. Funny thing, I have a dislike for (some) polished titanium gadgets; to me it really looks like metallic plastic. I’m pretty sure I have some Transformers (Generation 1 of course) in the attic with parts that resemble polished titanium. Matte grey bead blasted titanium on the other hand: ooh la laaa…. 
Could there be some “inconsistencies” in the finish? Strange to hear this sort of outcry now. I haven’t committed to a silver finished one but I do have the matte black L6.
I think it’s difficult for anyone to verify this unless you assemble all lights. I think it’s just very subjective. This finish is such a novelty, we have no experience and not much to compare to. It’s radical, it’s new, it’s naked aluminium with a protection coating; yeah I like it.
Edit:
Another point of interest is the feel. This light feels so much different than the black L6. The latter is really grippy, whereas the clear version is very slippery. The word slippery is definitely not loved by flashlight enthusiasts, but yeah, this is definitely the slipperiest light I own. I’m not a tactical person, and it does not bother me. I think it’s nice how it gives me a different “experience”.
It is fine not to like how finish looks.
The flashlight while looking ‘silver’ is made of aluminum and not stainless steel, chromed metal, or silver. The reason you might not like the finish is reason it is not seen very often.
For myself the color is not important, I use flashlight as a tool; I expect it to get bumps and bruises and lose its ‘brand new look’. Silver or Black this is a very good tool,
Is it? I’ve no idea what this clear coating is… whether it is transparent or it looks like silver metal on top of the al? Bare aluminum does not look like that. Is it the sand blasting - if any, that gives this grainy texture? I’d be curious to understand what this clear ano really is.
Yeah it must be sand/bead blasted aluminium. The protective layer is anodisation (technically not coating actually), which probably enhances shine. Meaning that the silvery colour is the actual aluminium; that’s what I meant with “naked”.
“Anodized aluminum surfaces, for example, are harder than aluminum but have low to moderate wear resistance that can be improved with increasing thickness or by applying suitable sealing substances.”
It would be hard for me to believe that the people who designed and manufactured this light would sacrifice this component of design just for the pretty silver color.
I hope I am not just jaded.
There is regular anodisation and there is hard anodisation, designated in three types, namely type I, II and III. The latter is often used for flashlights, and is hardest (meaning most wear resistant). Skyray King (the original) and Led Lensers are type II hard anodisation. Simon told me it’s not type III, that’s all.
Regular anodisation is often used for example to give aluminium a vivid colour; this is not hard anodisation, and is also not wear resistant.
+1
Thank you for the additional information on what coating may be used. I would like to hear from Convoy on this matter.
Cheers man.
With black flashlights, it is of importance (for looks) that you have a wear resistant surface. Type II hard anodised lights simply scratch a lot easier than type III. Nevertheless, the wear resistance of hard anodisation is so much better than regular anodisation. Clear anodisation is done to preserve the look of this light. Bare aluminium (with or without bead blasting) will oxidise in time to turn dull just like copper. Clear anodisation is done to prevent this from happening. If you nevertheless scratch the anodisation, it’s not going to have a large impact on appearance since it’s aluminium which will be exposed (and only that scratched part will become dull after quite some time). This is in contrast with black flashlights which will actually look scratched if you remove the anodisation. Therefore the type of anodisation for this clear variant is of lesser concern.
Thank you for the additional information, I did notice the absence of the ‘Type ll or lll Anodized’ designation on the description of the light.
I have two versions of this light one black the other clear; I will be interested to see how these different versions react to wear.
I once embarked on a mission to anodize a piece I created. The process involves an acid solution and electricity. The acid etches the surface and creates a honeycomb like pattern of wells, or tubes, in the surface of the aluminum that is actually considerably harder than the aluminum itself. Normally, this anodization is then soaked in a vat of warm dye solution which seeps into these micro tubes. The unit is then sealed in boiling water to lock in the die and close the surface of the tubes.
This clear anodization is merely the absence of the dye. It is no different structurally than the other Type III ano lights, it just doesn’t have the black dye in it.
Thank you DB Custom and KawiBoy1428 for the additional information.
Thank you again KawiBoy1428 for the excellent links.
From my quick reading the Clear Anodizing appears to be a MIL-A-8625 Type II, and for my needs this is sufficient. The black version of the L6 might be a better choice for those who would demand the most resistant anodizing treatment.
As I have written I have both the clear and black versions and will report, if needed, about any problems of the clear anodizing as compared to the black flashlights. I doubt this will be a problem we will hear much about other than a preference of choice,
I, for one, think the clear anodizing is top notch. I say that because I too had a project, years ago, where I turned some aluminum pieces and had them clear anodized, the results were a far cry from Convoys efforts. I have since then learned of various pre treatment surface prep methods employed now.
I’m doubting that bead blasting was utilized since the effect seems extremely uniform even in the sidewalls and recesses of the cooling fins. (Spray coating would not yield that uniform look, either). There are vibratory methods (shake tank or tumbler) available with different media (plastic, ceramic, porcelain etc) of various sizes, along with chemical etching, that can be done to achieve different effects. Looking at the texture, I would think the media was pretty small (fine grained), just a guess though.
I’m a little unsure what or how the ‘waxy’ feel was created, short of an actual final wax coating ( or silicone), but I’m not about to test solvents on mine. Time will tell how it wears.
- Bruce
+1
When I did mine I researched online then used pool chemicals we had here, for the electricity I used a pair of electric scooter lead acid cells from my mom’s 3 wheeled chair (double knee replacements, she doesn’t use the chair anymore) I bought RIT dye and mixed it, used heavy gauge aluminum wire from House OOO ground wire. For the cathode in the solution I used a piece of 4” aluminum tube. It was definitely a learning experience, but my piece came out with a bright color in the end and I was pleased. Even if I didn’t end up using it and don’t even know where it is now. lol
On another attempt of a different part I killed it, the acid solution ate into and severely uglified it.
So you might can imagine that my first built light from the lathe is still polished raw aluminum. 
Good point. Terribly sorry I haven’t figured out yet how to post pics; I’m a bit lazy. But I took a picture of the cooling fin area, and noticed (by zooming in) that the sidewalls of the fins are actually smooth, and the surface between the fins are dimpled, just like on the tailcap and bezel… Mechanical treatment like bead blasting after all?
P.S. Sorry to Sidecross for some erroneous information about anodising, please excuse me
Not a problem, we are here to learn and some times that might mean adding new information to have a better informed opinion.
I visit this forum for better information to augment my understanding.