Ok, now you made me look harder, ‘scratching my head’ as to what zooming in with flash reveals.
Couldn’t get image to post direct, just scroll to clear zoomed in image 1 of 5
That’s odd. Looks like two tone colour…huh? But you can definitely see the dimples on the sides… The picture I took was for the clear version and you can definitely see the contrast between the smooth side profile and the dimpled section… hmm…
That zoom is the clear, I have both.
Seriously, that made me scratch my head too… Weeeeird… Apologies again for not being able to post pictures yet…
The camera flash highlights or exaggerates the texture. I took one w/o flash and it appeared smoother.
My observations of the clear vs black Convoy L6. The surface of the clear model is slightly smoother than the black. This is noticeable in the grip of the battery tube mainly due to the sharpness or smoothness of the edges of the parallel grooves running along the length of the tube. The slight sharpness gives the black model a little more grip feel. The rings around the base of the head where the side switch is located also feel slightly smoother on the clear model. But, I find this smoothness as an advantage, as I am rotating the light, while feeling with my thumb, in search of the side switch. To the touch, the contrast between metal and rubber switch button is greater making it easier to detect, without looking.
Another advantage of the clear model is seeing/finding it in the dark.
-Bruce
I examined my clear L6 with a magnifier and saw the same as is in the first image of the link provided.
The inside surface of the fins are completely smooth.
That’s why I got a black one. I have a clear ano small light and I was thinking that anything bigger and that coloring would just look like cheap plastic. It’s still rather unique to have a clear L6 so there is that.
I have the clear version as well as a black version and having two with a stark visible difference between them is a plus for me.
As I have previously written I will report on any difference in performance or excessive wear because of the unique clear anodizing. I think it should be noted that the only ‘fly in the ointment’ that might me mentioned on the Convoy L6 is this newer anodizing choice.
I still will recommend this flashlight to those needing a quality flashlight at an affordable price, and it is a reason why I have two of them. 
I’m just waiting for someone to do some OL-style mods on an L6, like filing shiny grooves into the head or stripping the ano from certain sections for contrast. Maybe OL himself would do some and sell them.
I understand this new look won’t be to everyone’s liking. I never expected it to be. It’s why more colors and finishes are being added to flashlights all the time. Personally, I like the new look quite a lot. It’s true that the bead blasting process does give it a bit of a “silvery” appearance. It may be that the bead blasting helps the adherence of the anodizing and they felt it necessary. Simon is looking into it to see if we can achieve that “just machined” look in the future of clear anodizing.
The pictures of the bare aluminum L6 I arranged for Kawiboy had me drooling on my keyboard. I’m waiting for confirmation but I believe this is a type II anodizing. I don’t believe there is any way to achieve type III while maintaining the original brightness of the bare aluminum. Type III is seldom used in any color other than black as it darkens the original color significantly. I believe it may also make it more difficult to maintain color consistency from batch to batch and piece to piece though I am not an expert on the topic.
Type III without dye will give a zebralight-like result, BTW I’d like it 
Cool got any actual pics, I would like to check this out!! :+1:
If the raw naked L6 becomes abalible that is what I will be ordering for my next build, as soon as I find a driver for an XHP35 that is, or get my hands on a 90+ CRI XHP50/70 in ~4500k.
What you looking for a drop in 30mm XHP35 4S driver?
Possible drivers for xhp35 are :
LD-51 - 2x26650 in L6
led4power’s LD-M2 with 4S setup - 4x26350 in tube
Not my picture, but these are undyed pieces with different anodization thickness:
Any driver that can drive the XHP35 with 2-3A and has reasonable modes, without a big price tag.
The LD1 only puts out 1.5A, I would like closer to 2.5A. Plus it appears to be a 5 mode only driver.
The LD-M2 is too rich for my blood.
I know about the Ld-51 .
I don’t know if a zener modded driver will be fine with 4 cells and xhp35.
Anyone tried that ?
Yeah thanks! been running a L6 (and 8 other) XHP35 4S LD-2 M2 for a few months, got the L6 smooth reflectors, just waiting to be fine tuned!
Another one is the 26mm or 27.5mm MtnMax 4S set at 2.5amps, I’m running both in a couple lights. But the LD-2M2 is the ONLY one I know of that allows dual button use?
You want to push them to at least 2.5amps in my opinion, been running the Lumintop SD75 with a MtnMax E-switch LDO 3.0 amp driver choked down to 2.81+ amps at the emitter, using 24awg leads. The SD75 has a slightly smaller reflector compared to my K70 but it out throws it, best part about it is I don’t have to dic’ around with the magnetic selector ring! :+1:
Edit: you have to sink the LD-2M2 to the body and use the 30mm L6 driver as a contact board :person_facepalming: Sorry!
I have 5-6 XHP35 4S drivers sitting on my bench at home in all different stages of tuning, and 2 that need to be sent back for further evaluation. so far the LD-2 M2 gets my vote for the dual button set-up!