I'd suggest to ask if a tripod mount could be added to the stock L6, opposite of the switch. I got several lights with a tripod mount - a few standard accessories would fit. The Crelant 7G10 has a simple one just threaded direct in the aluminum body, while the SupFire M6 and L1 have a separate piece. There's a few different styles, including the whacky "nut light" from Warsun. The SS ones are the best I would think. It should accommodate a shoulder strap or sling attachment then, be multifunctional, and no extra parts and no functionality lost.
Thanks Dale, that’s all I need to hear, I’ve read about those issues but I know you’ve lived them, was going to give it a try even bought a can of that LEDseal from LEDsupply put now, forget that idea, do you think if I sand the ID of the current XHP70 centering ring just a bit that I could use it back with the MTG2, I’d think so, or do I need something deeper or taller, it does seem rather slim to me. And why a 20mm MCPCB, why not go to a Maxtoch board in the 30mm size and if need be solder the 20mm to the bottom, wouldn’t that help with heat?
I’ve used a lot of these M6 mounts on those tripod holes with some medium LocTite and they work good. Also the 3/8” to 1.4” or M6 inserts work real easy also, just drill a 3/8” hole and tap it, or not if in the fins
MT-G2 is much larger than an XHP-70
I do use the larger MaxTOCH mcpcb, I open up the emitter shelf on the lathe so as not to change the height. 
Edit: I’ve found the MT-G2 to have a nice beam profile in these big reflectors if you can have the dome up inside the base, so instead of centering rings I cut the aperture in the reflector square to fit around the substrate, with a bit of clearance to prevent a short, and this works very well. Reflector all the way down onto the mcpcb with Kapton tape covering the bottom of the reflector.
Edit II: Like this
If there is a need for a centering ring I have the ability to 3D print up custom sizes. I already have quite the selection of designs for the lights I have built so far.
It is really nice since I can precisely set the focus height for different setups.
If anyone needs a custom size and has a caliper to take accurate measurements let me know, I can custom make them if needed. I keep thinking about making up a centering ring kit with ~40 of them in various sizes.
I love that idea! :+1:
There’s been more than one time I wanted to mount the L6 on a tripod because of the sheer power and throw it wields.
The L6 was not intended to be a “thrower” but thanks to the XHP70 and a nicely designed reflector it throws much better than I originally thought it would.
Once the Q8 is ready these two could be the pinnacle of tripod mounted brilliance in their own realm. 
I posted this in the OP but I don’t expect anyone to monitor the OP so I’m posting it here too…
Seeing how big the original L2 and L6 threads have gotten I decided it was time to create a dedicated modding thread for both lights. :student:
Since they are “brothers-in-brilliance” and share some parts, a combined thread seemed fitting.
If you have experience to share please check it out and post away my friends.
If you’re looking for L2/L6 build/modding info, this should become a valuable resource.
The modding thread is Here
Yes, that is so perfect Dale, I think the MT-G2’s are something 9x8 and you know if I were to make a wild guess, looking at that picture, I feel like I’m looking down the barrel of a Jax X6, hum,
Can you do those cuts with Dremel size cutoff tools?
Edit: Maybe this powered mini file I have could do that, slowly.?
Last time I tried to cut down a reflector I discovered just how tough that stuff is and completely destroyed the reflector from heating it up, next time I’ll be using water or cutting oil to keep things cool down, that was a dumb one.
And Texas Ace if you do happen to put those centering ring kits together I’d definitely buy one or two, for sure,
I’ve been looking and pricing those desktop 3D printers and they seem inexpensive enough but I think like a regular paper printer that they practically give you for free with a new computer, I think these 3D’s make their money off those filament rolls so it seems, still have a lot of research to do before getting into the 3D projects, but would certainly love those kits…!
DB , how do you cover the bottom of the reflector to prevent short circuit ? Please add photo if possible. Thanks.
I use a hand file, a small one, to cut the opening larger. With the reflector face down so if I slip it’s on the outside (learned that one the hard way)
I got a 2” wide roll of Kapton tape, simply cover the bottom of the reflector then use a scalpel (X-Acto works) to cut out the opening.
Hole isn’t visible here but …
If I really feel like the reflector is going to be in hard contact with the contacts, I press down on the solder joint with a flat screwdriver and heat it, make it as flat and smooth as I can, even file it if necessary. Then I cut a circular piece of the Kapton tape and lay it over the mcpcb/emitter shelf/ contacts such that the two are both covered, in this way the Kapton tape on the bottom of the reflector isn’t as prone to tear if the reflector turns while tightening the bezel.
To make the piece to go on top of the mcpcb I cut a square piece off the 2” roll, fold it in half sticky side out, fold it in half again and try not to let it stick together, then cut a quarter circle off the inside corner to make a hole approximately the size of the opening in the reflector. When opened back up from the folds, I have a 2” square with a hole in the middle. If need be, trim around it so it fits down into the head of the light but still covers the contacts.
That is WAY cool MacGyver-style advice! 
:+1:
Also great stuff for the new L2/L6 modding thread. :innocent:
Thank you.
J-Dub74, can you go into more details on the modifications you and Simon have done to the generic FX30 driver to turn it into the L6 driver?
I see the generic driver was 4.5 amp on high and the Convoy version is either 5 or 5.25 amp.
I see the generic driver had an R100 and R082 resistors and the Convoy version has a pair of R082.
The strobe is no longer a 2 second press, it’s now a double click.
Both still have 4 power levels, but the spacing has changed.
You’ve gotten rid of the turbo timer/thermal drop down.
Are there other details you can mention?
The changes you mentioned cover the basics pretty well. The standard FX-30 didn’t deliver the punch we wanted for the L6 or the mode spacing I felt was critical. We decided to drop the turbo timer as this light handles the heat quite well and if you are buying a Convoy L6 you should know enough about flashlights to know not to leave it unattended and to use the heat felt by your own hand to tell you when you should drop it down a level. Turbo timers are nothing but an annoyance to many members of the flashaholic community here.
The Convoy L6 driver is a result of the opinions of Simon and I with help figuring out how to make all it happen from my two of my best BLFriends.
If you don’t like it, please blame me.
If you do like it, this nicely improved driver is available ridiculously cheap in the Convoy store with the excellent side switch already there.
I tend to be a bit wordy…particularly where I have strong feelings 
but the changes can be simplified/summarized as different resistors and different firmware.
The mode spacing is real nice.
I’m crossing my fingers we’ll get new firmware that gives lots of different options, kinda like guppydrv, etc…, but I get the feeling this driver is not used in many lights and therfore not popular enough for someone to do all that programming.
At the moment I wish I could turn off the strobe. I still get it by accident sometimes.
I made a video of my 7.4A bumped L6 how it heats up in turbo:
I guess the manufactorer changed the firmware.
Or is the source available so that we might even modify and program the firmware by ourselves?
Yeah, the driver manufacturer Simon uses made the firmware changes. We just dictated what those changes would be and what levels the modes should be set to. I don’t know if I can get the source code or not but I like the idea. I’ll find out. While I’m happy with the mode spacing, we set it up to be fairly simple for the average user. As BLF members were all quite spoiled by spectacular firmware from people like ToyKeeper and Tom E. :sunglasses:
+1
That’s the only con i see for this light :heart_eyes:
Another idea is using the side switch for on/off and switching modes then the rear switch would only be for locking it out. I think it would make it more friendly for one hand use. Right now I tend to use 2 hands with it which feels a bit awkward.
I believe the MTN FET driver is like this, but I don’t want direct drive, I prefer longer runtimes.
Agreed on using the side switch for on/off and switching modes , but I think it would need a new driver & firmware to do that.