I was basing the air gap comment on what someone had said earlier. Filling a gap like that would make sense but I haven’t taken mine apart and you obviously have. The more I think about this the more I think this amount of travel before momentary activation may be by design. With a momentary switch on a powerful light such as the L6 I don’t want to light it up by accident. That 2mm you’re describing could be more like a safety to prevent accidental activation. I could be wrong but it sounds logical to me.
I have three L6’s (don’t ask… :person_facepalming: ) and the switches on all three work the same. Pretty much like you described goshdogit, except to me mine do not feel “mushy”. They do have a slight, but firm; movement to momentary but they are crisp & “clean” feeling. I think it is just how they are made. Maybe you got a bad one.
Good luck……
Mine feels fine with no mushiness as well. The only play I feel is in the switch itself which doesn’t bother me at all.
Anyone else had issue removing the driver ?
I can not remove the retaining ring .
The ring came right out when I used s small pair of needle nose pliers stuck in both holes. If I just tired to loosen it with a single hole it would not come off.
I have to buy bigger needle nose pliers … These i have right now barely fit 20mm driver retaining rings.
I’m not suggesting anyone buy these, but I have something similar and they work nicely.
” click here”:http://www.harborfreight.com/11-piece-snap-ring-pliers-set-92374.html
Hey All, thanks for the input on my complaint of a mushy tail switch. I don’t think there is anything wrong with my switch, it just seems to have more travel before making momentary contact compared to other forward clickies I’ve used. Perhaps “mushy” isn’t the right word.
Good point. Maybe they design the switch with some dead-space, rather than relying on an air gap between it and the boot’s post.
Perfectly logical—one L6 for each hand, and one as a backup! 
It sounds like Teacher’s and Glenn’s switches behave like mine, and I’m just being picky. 
I like this idea. The stock spacer/washer is 19.80mm diameter, 3.85mm thick, with an 11.00mm diameter hole in it.
As a test, I assembled the tailcap without the stock spacer. The switch is much more responsive to momentary activation—almost too sensitive.
I will introduce the stock spacer to the belt sander later today and report back.
EDIT: I found a 1.72mm thick washer in the junk drawer, enlarged the hole a bit, and the switch feels great now. My L6 is now ready for long-range Morse code communication!
Thanks again everyone! :+1:
I modded the driver now. Ripped off all parts from the original board and removed most of the copper at the backside with a dremel. Then I zener modded a Blf X6 driver and removed all copper from the backside. Now I took a 105C, ripped of all parts beside the 8x 7135 and glued it to the backside of the original board. On top of the 7135 I glued the Blf X6 driver. I connected the 7135 PWM pin of the Blf X6 to the regarding pin at the 105C and all other required connections.
I am using my own firmware on this driver, but it is currently a clicky firmware, not a momentary. Connected the momentary switch to minus and pin 1 of the Attiny, with each click the mcu resets and goes to next mode. Works well.
The 105C is working as slave, and all 9x 7135 together deliver a max. current of 3.4 Ampere, good for about 2200 lumen (N2 bin). If I need more or want to show off, I activate the FET and get more then 9 Amps out of the Keeppower 5200 protected and about 11.7 Amps out of highdrain 18650 cells.
This afternoon I have been working on Convoy L6’s. My existing one now has a small Omten Reverse clicky, I like that a lot better than the forward switch. The new Host that came in today is now assembled and rocking. I put Richards MtnMax Buck driver in it at 5.5A, used a 26mm MaxToch copper mcpcb (25mm?) with a de-domed XP-G2 S2 0D emitter. Using a single cell tube from the L2, I have 2 of the 26350 half cells in it also with a small Omten reverse clicky.
I opened the emitter shelf for the 25mm MaxToch copper mcpcb on my lathe and with the XP-G2 S2 0D de-domed on it, Richard’s buck driver and 2 of the 26350 half cells it makes 414Kcd for 1286.86M throw, doing 1071.92 lumens.
This is with an experimental smooth reflector. More details on that to follow…
Impressing! Waiting for details …
Wow, lots of work but glad it worked out for you.
Just FYI, check out PD’s Tripledown driver Or (shameless self plug) my TA driver series. They both do what you are trying to do in a single driver instead of stacking multiple drivers.
In fact I can measure the L6 driver and make up a driver in that size for people to have a drop in option if they want.
The 7135’s work fine long term in the L6? No overheating issues?
Don’t know yet, if something burns I will report.
I know there are complete drivers but I was impatient and had plenty of 105c lying around, left over from modded lights. And I had a lot of fun assembling this driver collection.
Dale you rock brother!
I knew the L6 would make a killer thrower but I lack the skills to prove it. That’s where Dale comes in. :+1:
KawiBoy would be right there too but he can’t seem to stop work from interfering with his flashlight madness. People need to get their priorities straight. 
I’m working on him though.
:+1: Down here in Indiana, dodging Tornado’s!! :person_facepalming:
Hi all,
I just posted some information on doing some simple mods to the L6 if anyone is interested.
Nice work dude! :+1: That video will help clarify things for those wanting to do the resistor mod to bump up the power. I like the numbers.
Oh and in true BLF fashion I must say “Beam shots or it didn’t happen!”
Indeed, good walkthrough. Makes me wounder what the SMO + XHP35 would do. I wounder what the max voltage is on the stock driver?
Ok, now I gotta say it’s a wet humid night. We’ve had some 8” of rain in the past week. That said, here’s 3 beamshots of Convoy lights shot at the white barn 610 yds away. All are the exact same camera setting from the Canon G1X on a tripod, lights are clamped in the new double Super Clamp so even they point exactly in the same place…
L6 XHP-70 res mod at 6.3A for some ~4600 lumens
L2 XHP-35 LD-2 modified running 4 26350 cells making 3.13A for ~2989 lumens
L6 XP-L V2 3A HI with FET+1 Bistro on a single 26650 with the short tube from the L2 making 1411 lumens (experimental mirror finish reflector)
The 414Kcd XP-G2 variant poofed on me before nightfall, and the driver is now malfunctioning as well. Richard’s gonna have a look at it and see what’s going on.
The closest fence, in the foreground is about 100 yds away, the next fence, a white painted pipe fence seen directly above the barbed wire fence, is about 320 yds away. The white barn itself is 610 yds according to Google Earth and in the last shot you can see that there’s a tree line behind the barn… it’s about 735 yds from my position.