I don’t have a wood-burning stove or fireplace, otherwise I would have kept the wood. Actually this was a very good price where I live. Last year I was quoted $1500 without grinding the stump. Now I have to get some top soil and seed to re-do my lawn and replace the the bushes along the fence.
That being said, I’m still going to buy another L6 in natural finish. I can’t help myself with this hobby…
Same problem here Glenn. I’m going to wait a short time. Different bills (new oil furnace, new auto, and seasoned wood- I NEVER buy wood!) and some bills that I know are coming but are, as of today, still unseen.
Yeah, it takes expertise and equipment to bring a tree down under those circumstances. I just bought 3 cords of seasoned tree length wood (2 years) from a gent who specializes in just that sort of work. Nice stuff. Very knotty which is what I like. Knots burn a very long time and the splitter doesn’t care if it’s knots or not. But if you tell them you want knots they think you’re insane. I never buy wood, but I was caught with winter coming and no seasoned wood. I normally drop, cut, haul, and split my own from the land. I dislike burning oil from the mideast when I can burn local wood. At least when it’s <20°F (7°C) . Our wood stove will have us opening the windows when it’s warmer than that and I won’t use it then. That’s a good possibility for the oil burner. I especially like wood heat when it gets to –30°F (–34C) and the wood stove likes it too. The fire is just gorgeous and the constant heat is too. There’s nothing better that a hot stove to get close to, a cold person backing up to the stove, and an adult beverage on a winters day . Can’t do that with oil heat.
But back on track…
I don’t know if I like the new clear anodize better than the black, but I like that it’s different and so different from the grey S2+’s that I have. Do I need another light? No. But I’ll probably get another 2 drivers just to make sure… and if he has UV filters on hand… I’m sure everyone here knows how this works.
I like that he’s putting the brand name on it as well. He should get credit for what I have no doubt will be a classic light if it isn’t already (the L6 in general). I don’t know how easy it would be for the counterfeiters to copy, but I wouldn’t want that with this light. Simon and all involved should get the credit. I was thinking just today, what a happy coincidence :innocent: that I should need new lights, and be primed for the L6 (and Q8) at this time.
And I just discovered that colon, dash, parenthesis, then text, followed by the same series gives one struck out text on this forum software. But if one uses colon parenthesis it leads to text as written and smilies as intended.
Just in case someone MUST have an FET driver for the L6, I made a 30mm version of the Texas Avenger that would work with this light, although there is not any dual switch firmware for it at the moment so you would have to pick between E-switch and Tail switch.
Personally I think the stock driver works great for a performance standpoint but if you need either max power or a particular UI setup, well this is now an option.
That’s cool! The LD-2 M2 is Linear and a dual button driver, 25mm diameter, but works great with my copper driver adapters.I like being able to use either to cycle through the levels.
Yep, the LD-2 is a great driver as long as you heat sink it properly.
This was simply because I wanted to make a real large driver that could be sanded down to anything smaller to fill in the gaps. I picked 30mm because it was a round number and I figured someone, someplace would want an FET driver for the L6 lol.
The LD-2 M2 hasn’t given me any problems even at 12amps, the 25mm base acts as the heat sink, just transfer it to the driver cavity thru the copper ring. The LD-2 heat sinked to the head of the light is not a problem either. Then NTC is great, Linear no PWM and set the current at what you wish. Having both buttons usable, well that freaking fantastic!! :+1: Just can’t beat it!!! Edit: but if you make it I will try it!!!
Yep, the LD-2 is a nicer driver then a basic FET setup.
I just tossed together a 30mm version because it can be sanded down to 22mm if desire and I figured it would cover basically anyone’s needs for any light they could come across.
If mine ever gets here I’ll have runtime tests and the lot, like my normal reviews. It seems to be stuck in origin prep over in China though… Should have been here last week.
Simon just sent me a message; it is clear anodisation, but not type III. So I think it is a bit less hard and wear resistant than type III, but as mentioned before, you’ll probably not notice scratches that easily as the base material is aluminium.
I’m a big fan. His video reviews hit all the marks on the important info/specs while adding a healthy amount of entertainment value and humor! :student:
Question? Is the driver pocket in the factory L6 and the L6 host the same size
The reason I ask is my factory made L6’s all have 30mm drivers in 30mm driver pockets. But the L6 host Richard sells at MTN says it has a 27.5mm driver pocket.
Is that a misprint at MTN?
I can’t imagine the host would be different from the factory light. :question: