Don’t get your hopes up, that firmware won’t work on the L6 driver
Well, technically… the L6 is sold as an XHP-70 which is a 6V emitter so the driver that comes in it is designed to power the bigger emitter. BUT, an L6 host, with an Nanjg 105D piggybacked onto the proper sized contact board and a single cell with a spacer at the back end so it’d work with a single 26650 and push a de-domed XP-G2 S2 0D…… 
(disclaimer: the laser like de-domed XP-G2 is a relatively high Vf emitter, really needs a Buck driver and 2 cells to run at it’s max levels. It’ll be nice at 4.8-5A with a modified 105D, just not performing to it’s maximum potential.)
J-Dub74
Since i order those and C8/L2 on a regular base i saw a change in the oxidation for like 2-3 months earlier this year, its was kinda different( more shiny) and more or less closer to S70( but not equal, better), then it was changed back to normal
Would you be so kind to ask Simon to bring that “test” oxidation method back pls ? 
It was the best oxidation in the budget world
J-Dub: I see somewhere that Simon will be selling the single 26650 tubes in block style separately. Can it be 2-3mm longer than the original L2 short tube for easy fit of two 26350 cells with L6 head? I tried my L2 short tube that way but it was really tight fit and I was afraid of doing too much force to the driver. I think the springs compressed fully. And I think the short tube also can have detachable tactical ring as the long one.
Thank you If you forward this to Simon!
Seconded.
Question for those who have both black and clear versions: if you could have only one, which would you get?
Disregarding the fact that clear body is unusual and rare, which of the two do you like best?
I don’t think anyone has a clear anodized convoy yet, apart from the one C8 that was revealed.
I have the black version and ordered the clear version from Simon which is yet to arrive. For me having two distinct visual versions makes it much easier to identify the amount of time of use for each one.
I am finding myself using the L6 more often than any other high output flashlight, and is my reason for ordering a second L6.
Question for flashlight experts! Which emitting color should I choose for L6? I will use it for gig fishing so it should penetrate fresh water quite good (dark water color). I think maybe best would be N2 7C 3000K, or what would you say? Sadly 3000K is out of stock for now and don’t know when it is restocked :cry:
I’m clearly not an expert.
For that use you’d want the highest output correct? Or I would think so anyway. If that’s true the bluer beams have more output. As “stuff” is added to the emitter to make for a yellower beam the output drops.
More lumens does not always equal “brighter” to the human eye.
For example the other night we were exploring a creek with the whole posse. Had a whole bunch of lights with us, at one point a small plane flew overhead only a few hundred feet up, I am sure they were wondering what was going on lol! just to settle the issue, yes an L6 can light up a plane (from the back so it didn’t blind the pilot and only for a second of course).
Well while out there I did a “blind” test with the L6 and S70 where I pointed them at the same thing and simultaneously turned one off and the other on to see what people thought of the beams.
Well the very first swap of the beam and it was a unanimous cry that the L6 was the far better beam. A few more times and people all pointed out the better color and that they could see the trees better. A few noted the dark spot in the S70 beam but in the real world you have to be looking for it.
The shocker for me was a bit later when I tried the same thing looking off a bridge at the creek, they both “lit up” the same basic distance but at the edge of the viable light the S70 could only make out the edge of the shoreline.
The L6 with the 3A emitter on the other hand could make out the bushes, rocks and water. I was amazed at the difference since I know that by the numbers my S70 puts out slightly more lumens and they are virtually identical KCD numbers.
So the difference was 100% the change in tint.
Since then I am now on the warpath to find good high CRI emitters for all my lights as that would be even better. It would be epic if Simon could get some High CRI XHP70’s in ~4000-4500k. It would go with this light so beautifully.
Convoy L6 CW is $50 for a few days at GB:
http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_359831.html?wid=21
PS: it’s just $1.84 better then FT with BLF code.
I have tested with some cheap T6 led flashlights with about 6000-6500K temp. They just do this kind of blue spot on the water and doesn’t show about anything under water. But with halogen light (a lot dimmer than LED) you can see bottom clearly. So I think maybe color temp is the key here?
Yes, like I was getting at in my above post, CRI and tint are what you are looking for. I would do some research on diving light tints as that will be the most applicable for you.
Without having direct knowlage about diving / water tints, I am going to say you are on the right track, the 7C is a good tint that should cut through the water a lot better.
J-Dub, I know simon gets his emitters direct from Cree, is it possible to get the part numbers for the XHP70’s he is offering? I would like to see what the spec CRI rating is on them.
I -finally ordered a L6, and all this CRI talk in this thread and the haikeLite raised me interest… I read a few pages back there was a CW 5000k 90+CRI XHP-70, anyone know where to order?
Initially I was going for the higher bin P2 1C but now I really want to try high CRI. My only CRI light is a triple 219C at only 70, and way too warm for my taste.
Interesting. Thanks.
That does make sense. The human eye sees best in, or makes better use of, the yellow/green wavelengths.
I need to get a NW L6 and test it for myself.
People always say they don’t want a warm tint but honestly I have yet to see someone that if handed a warm tint light didn’t like it in the real world and not white wall hunting.
Plus you would be surprised how fast the warmer tints grow on you. Now sure you can go too warm but 4000-4500k is the sweet spot IMO. 4100k is what most cars headlights are now days, there has to be a reason for that.
Also keep in mind that we basically always overdrive LED’s in our flashlights. When you do this the tint is going to shift to a bit cooler/whiter. So starting out with a ~4000-4500k LED works out real nice once at full power.
If it interesting to watch the tint shift when running the LED’s on a bench power supply.
I have the N2-3C version which is 5000K and I like it very much.
I have that version as well. I love it!