Simon sells the board with that emitter? (It is Simon, correct?) My paypal can’t afford another L6 at this time.
Or should I just try to find the LED and mount it myself? From what I’ve seen it doesn’t look difficult to solder (flow?) an LED in place.
It looks like all he sells by themselves is the 1C XHP70.
Although he is selling the XHP35 now:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/CREE-XHP35-6000-6500K/330416_32720604883.html
Does this mean an XHP35 light is in the works? If only it was a better tint and it said the bin. Jdub, You might want to tell Simon to stick with the “A” and “D” tints in the cool and neutral color range. The B and C tints can have Green tones.
You want to try to keep the tints along (or below if you must pick) that small dotted line in the chart below, it is kinda hard to see.
He also is selling a new driver on the cheap as well: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/7135x3-7135x4-7135x6-7135x8-with-new-firmware/330416_32734523412.html
If you get the new emitter already on a copper DTP star it’s pretty easy to swap out the old one for a new one.
Cutter has the High CRI XHP-70, I bought one that they tested at 96CRI. It’s pretty nice, not even all that much on the warm side.
Cutter-XHP70-20-40E3-90
20mm DTP Alum Star, Colour Bin: 3A 5000K, Flux Code: K4, Stock bin Spectral Tested 96CRI
This is on an Aluminum star with DTP, I moved mine over to a copper star. Your call…
+1
That is a very informative graphic that I have used to help me choose what I wanted.
Wow they have a 6500K 93CRI is that even possible!?
CCT and CRI are totally unrelated. A cloudy day can have a color temp of 8000 and still be CRI 100. Several studio lights are over 6500 K with high CRI. I have several CFL bulbs and fluorescent light at home that are 6000-6500 K and CRI >90.
Thanks for explaining! I always related high CRI with low temperature, and cooler tints would naturally “wash out” the colors. Would be interesting to compare it with another light of this tint and see how much better it can render the colors.
I found the thread “Lets Talk Tints” to be helpful for me.
Hey Mitko. Yeah, the change you’re describing was at my request but I got so wrapped up in other things that I forgot about it. It’s getting to the point where I can’t keep up with my own threads. :person_facepalming: The “test oxidation” you’re referring to should be basically the same anodizing that came on the first run of single cell L2 when they were all using XM-L2 emitters. Comparing it to the flatter finish on the first run of the 2 cell L2 I like the original finish better.
The anodizing I think you’re referring to is definitely more flat or “matte” than Thorfire’s L70 anodizing yet not as flat as say the M1 or M2. The completely flat anodizing will show moisture residue from your hand after holding it and shows scuffs easier. In other words I think you and I are on exactly the same page here. There are a lot of people that love the very flat anodizing too though. Ultimately I don’t know if everyone agrees with us. Based on your comment it looks like he did bring it back as requested but then it either got forgotten or another decision was made. I’d have to look into it…
I don’t know. They may be in production already. I’d need more feedback here. I think Scott and Dale have used the short tube with two 26350 cells and didn’t say anything about the tube being too short. Also, some are just going to want to use these short tubes for a single 26650. I’m not saying “No” but I’m hoping a few more people can chime in with some feedback. I’d hate to ask him make them longer and end up with half the people saying they’re too long. :question:
As far as the ring goes I asked Simon to make the short tubes with both the simple and tactical threaded rings. It’s just too cool a feature not to be included if we’re making the short tubes anyway. :+1:
I’m one who likes the matte anodize. Maybe the shinier one can be brought back as an option?
I have also used the L2 short tube with the L6. It works great IF you use the L6 switch. The L2 switch is apparently a bit shorter and doesn’t work.
I also like the not-as-matte matte finish much better.
The trouble is, people think the I’m saying I like the shiny cheap stuff that looks like paint. What I actually mean is that I like the kind that Eagle Eye uses more than what is on the L2/L6/M2 from Convoy.
I have liitokala 26650 flat tops and 26350-s. In an F13 both work nicely. But in the L6 With the single 26650 tube you don’t need to clear so much difference with springs like with two 26650 tube. Maybe tomorrow I make some measurements and photos with the L6 single cell tube. When the springs touch the cells and after that how many mm can you screw on the tailcap with both liitokala which I think the shortest kind of 26650-s and two 26350 maybe the same length of a button top protected 26650 which I don’t have but from internet I found 70-72mm lengths.
Thanks for tactical ring!
I certainly agree with you. 
Link removed!
I’m honestly very disappointed. He just focuses on that fact that you have to buy oh so expensive 26650 batteries + charger and he really seems to knock points off for that reason alone. Yes, a 26650 light uses 26650s. I wish he reviewed the light for the light it is and not the batteries it takes. Also knocks of points for no charge port, no manual, and that a new charger is needed to charge 26650s? wth. He skims over the build quality and modes and the value you get for the price. I was hoping for a more reasonable review from him since he has a lot of viewers that could widen Convoy’s customer base. Ah oh well.
I’ve seen a few of that guy’s flashlight reviews. He always picks out a dumb meaningless detail to make into a big deal, either good or bad. Yeah, it’s a shame for Simon, but it’s a bit like asking your great-grandfather to review your wifi router. He just doesn’t get it.
Keep in mind that this guy’s audience are mainly preppers, so they would naturally look for cell compatibility, and you would most likely find 18650 vs 26650s during doomsday.
The lack of charge port means that if a world-wide EMP hits tomorrow and none of your 20+ chargers works you could still charge the light via USB. Handy right?
Price vs value is no concern because money will be nothing more than paper after the collapse of economic and political system.
A manual is obviously necessary because how else are you going to know the modes and workings? you can’t ask it on BLF, its not like the internet is going to work after a global communication shutdown.
There is also no option for a sharp attack bezel in case you need to stab zombies in their heads.
And where is the strobe for when you need to disorient those invading your underground nuclear shelter for food?
Considering above points the L6 is pretty useless, in the eyes of a prepper.
That makes sense, I agree with both of you (especially pd68). But on other unnecessarily SUPER bright name-brand lights he reviews (that are just as barebones as the L6), they get glowing recommendations from him. I think it’s due to it not being a brand he’s familiar with. It seemed that he was talking about the light in a general view (as he does with a lot of his light reviews). He didn’t mention the prepper or survival stuff like on other videos where he discloses about where his opinion is coming from. Fingers crossed that other popular youtubers get this light!
I just watched that video. Very little meaningful info shared about the L6. A pretty worthless “review” as far as I am concerned. :person_facepalming: