Typical manafont driver. Its got the second board perpendicular to the base. The 3T6 is nice the way it is, but I have decided I want shorter lights instead of beat sticks. I need to go get an SRK or something……
Ok, thanks for the info. Yeah, I prefer the shorter lights too... But the TR-3T6 is nice.
Im curious as to how efficient that light is though. When I had the 3-18V driver from IOS in my TR-3T6 (now sold) I had about 3,5A at the tail with two batteries, and 2 amp to each emitter. When using 3 batteries, I had about the same emitter and tailcap current 3A. But then the light was just too long IMO. And when I had 2 batteries, it was not bright enough compared with the much shorter king. Nor did it have the runtime...
It would be interesting to see some runtime data on your Convoy M1 MT-G2. Current/Lumen over time..
I really need to build a lightbox one of these days. I picked the 12x 7135 Qlite because medium is only ~1.1A, and gives about 600 lumens I think. Almost as bright as the typical XML p60, but then I have high to use as well. Low and moonlight also work well.
I don’t know how I messed mine up, but I’ll probably redo it…direct drive isn’t what I had in mind.
Medium is a very useable mode, as are the lows…miss that now! lol
Just tried this mod and it works really well!
I Used a zener diode that was lying around and a 222 mOhm smd resistor. I also added 8 x 380 mA 7135 chips to a FT 2800 mA Nanjg 105c board. Using 2 x AW IMR 18350 700 mAh batteries I actually got 5.84 mA at the tail cap(!) in high, 2.4 A in med and 0.31 A in low. The mod was made in a Poppas titanium anodized light from Manafont. The pill was modded with a copper rod for heatsinking and the Noctigon copper star with MT-G2 was heatsinked to it with a mix of silver thermal HY710 with some IC diamond grease.
This isnt the first light Ive modded, just the first time Ive posted here. Big thanks to Ryansoh for all the help!
The light is unbelievably bright and Ill post a couple of pics soon.
Hmmm, let’s see…5.84A x 7.6V = 44.38W / 6.47V = 6.86A to emitter for 3350 lumens, give or take. Yeah, should be pretty bright, and dangerously hot! Be careful not to run it long enough that the top cell heats up beyond safe levels.
I dont think the batteries have enough runtime at that current to heat up the top cell beyond safe levels 
with this driver the current at tail are the same than the current at led
I’m still learning, but I fail to see what the driver has to do with that formula. A tailcap reading of 5.84A on 2 cells that start off at 8.4V but sag to probably 7.6V will give 44.38Watts of power. The emitter being used has a forward voltage of approx 6.47Vf at that power level, so it would stand to reason that 44.38W divided by 6.47V equals 6.86A the emitter is getting. That’s how it was explained to me. Maybe I missed something.
The driver has been altered, by the way, with a resistor and a zener diode. I have done this about 5 times to drivers I use all the time, no longer the same driver. 
Small li-ion cells like these have Vf that sinks like a ship under extreme load..
This driver cant increase the current (like comfychair said better, it cant convert excess voltage into amps, like your math does) , and no drivers have 100% efficiency, like you math have.
Maybe charts on the 105C in this review helps understanding the efficiency part of this type of driver..
Edited text and added link..
Amps is amps on a CC driver. Only with a buck driver does the number of cells come into play (multiplying # of cells by tailcap current). With a buck driver it's converting the excess voltage into amperage, constant current driver doesn't do that.
So is my math correct or incorrect? I didn’t mulitply cells, straight math on available current x tailcap amperage for wattage being burned. Divided that wattage by the known forward voltage of the emitter to extrapolate the current going through the emitter. Is this not correct?
Too many variables to even start the argument.
Math is correct for a multi-cell buck driver. The 7135s just do a fixed current and that's that.
I don’t mean to start an argument, just trying to understand. This was all said back when I was building my K3 and what’s being said doesn’t pan out to the results my DMM showed.
K3 head using the Zener diode mod to a Qlite. 2 18650 cells. Removed the negative lead from the star and put the DMM between the flow. The current my DMM showed was much higher than the tailcap measurement. I was told I must be shorting it to direct drive. Easy to say that, but I was running it through the modes and writing down the numbers, no short into direct drive. Repeated it. 3 times. Was seeing a couple amps more when reading the emitter current than the tail cap showed. Everybody says if you short the 105c you don’t have modes. So once again I’m getting contrasting information that makes it difficult to understand just what exactly is actually going on.
That formula seems so straightforward. And it was you, Comfy, that supplied it. Yes, we were dealing with the S2200 then, but you confirmed it on my K3 with the modded QLite as well. So I have been under the assumption that it was the way to figure it.
So now your’e saying that if I take a lead off my MT-G2 and measure actual emitter amperage coming from the Qlite driver through the emitter, it will match the tailcap amperage? When I did that before, the numbers didn’t match. Too confusing.