That’s good to know. I’m glad that I ordered the one from Ali as well.
Why would he recommend it. I couldn’t find anything really bad about this company. Besides Ali and mountain, is there any other sellers in the United States?
I ordered 2 of the buck drivers from Ali. Could I use one for the cree that I got from mountain Electronic?
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I ordered one of these from Ali as well.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002389032527.html
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That lighted switch will work with the 8A Convoy driver.
However for it to work on the MTN20DDm you’ll need to add a Bleeder Resistor(680 Ohm should work).
You scrape off some of the solder mask and solder it from +(spring) to -(where the mask is scraped off)
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The XPL-HI has a very high vF and with without Boost, I don’t think it would be able to achieve over current.
Am I wrong?
The new gen XPL-HI has very low Vf and good overcurrent, but personally not sure where to source them. The old generation has high Vf and output starts dropping right away if FET-driven. But that also guarantees safety (won’t burn up the emitter due to limited current).
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Got it.
KD has the new ones. I didn’t like the tint of the 4000k but the 5000k is pretty nice.
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Way back when I installed a MTN XP-L HI V3 3C 5000K in my C8 with the MTN-17DDm driver. Never had an issue with it being overdriven.
Here’s the post about my mod if you’re interested: Convoy C8 Mod - The WOW Factor
And that reminds me, you may want to bypass the switch spring unless it comes with a newer copper spring that Convoy now has. In the past, anything over 3 amps needed a bypass, but apparently the current Convoy spring can handle up to 10 amps.
Or you can solder the bleeder resistor to the back of the driver:
I’ve always had to use 220 ohms for Bistro to function properly.
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They all come with the new spring now if you ordered from convoy 
Bypass it anyways though just cuz lol
Thanks, that link will be a big help.
Agreed, although the copper ones are harder to bypass if you try to cover the entire end of the spring with a solder blob since the hole is much larger now:
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True. I don’t try to cover the whole top of the spring anyways. Lately I’ve been doing 1 of 2 things. And idk if either of these are more effective than any other, none of this is scientific lol. I’m just trying stuff.
Either i desolder the omten switch, put that aside, throw the PCB on my reflowing hot plate, heat it to take the spring off. Then I’ll put together a double spring, either with two of the same sized convoy springs or with a slightly smaller spring, either Hank’s little beryllium copper ones, or with kaidomain’s gold plated phosphor bronze, spring #30384. Both are slightly thicker than the convoy springs too. Either spring by itself usually isnt big enough but sometimes works. Then ill rub a little solder paste on the bottoms and reflow them back on the board. Then solder the switch back on. Nice clean double spring.
Or I’ll use 20awg and just sand and polish it down flush, outdoors with a p100 respirator, cuz lead. Or if it’s a big spring I’ll use 18awg cuz you can kind of spread the strands over the spring like a web and cover more of the whole top of the spring that way. And then sand+polish that flat too.
And for the top spring on the 12a fet driver I do solder on copper braid to the driver spring because I did have the top spring melt on that driver, and there’s no components driver side, but I don’t want to desolder something on the other side. And then I just check on the braid frequently and don’t leave a cell in the light.
I know you are not talking to me but this is all great information.
I got the host light today and now I have to wait for the rest from China. This is going to be a long wait for me. I have gotten used to Amazon delivery and everything else seems to crawl to me. Lol
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Dang, maybe you should start a spring bypass topic to showcase your skills!
I usually just bypass with the same AWG as the driver, which is typically 22 gauge. That seems to be the norm with the Convoy and MTN drivers. And since the bypass wire is shorter, the limiting factor is then with the driver leads.
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Left to right all on convoy tailcap pcb’s- current convoy spring, convoy+kaidomain double spring, Hank’s BeCu spring
But it doesn’t work like that. Total resistance is the sum of all individual resistances, Rtotal=R1+R2+R3…, you know that. There’s no one limiting factor.
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I did this exact thing with my S21A. I built it yesterday. Fantastically awesome.
Yeah, that seems to be a great combo! Glad you like it. 
I’d be curious to hear from someone who actually swapped out an XP-L HI with an SFT40 in their C8. I wonder if it’s significantly better? I prefer 5000K vs 6500K, but noticeably farther and brighter would be worth it.