Thanks Argo & stephenk. I likely will buy another 519a light, hopefully in a more throwy host than S21D; perhaps this time will go for the 5000k and hope it lands at 4500
How much off were your 4500 and 5700k LED’s? Thanks.
The B35AM light is here - very pretty light with the unusual MAO finish.
Good thing weekend is coming up. 
Some numbers from Simon posted in Convoy’s thread - a remarkable set set of specs :
Tc=4454K
Duv= - 0.00503
x=0.3603,y=0.3531
Ra=98,R9=99, R12=77
I am getting about - 0.0050 for Duv using Opple Pro. Does it resemble somewhat any other LED? I don’t know yet until I could get some beam shots. Very exciting.
Good point re. size of LED and throw.
Measurement so far shows output of B35AM about half of FC40 4500k and actually even less than S21D 519a, but what’s there is a small, bright hotspot (and a lot less spill vs FC40 in same host). BTW my “integrating sphere” for measuring btw is a guest bathroom with a very large mirror (I think it favors lights with floody beams); sorry that’s all I could do. The numbers have been “close enough” though.
I haven’t set up for throw measurement yet but it would be interesting to see what the throw is for this light.
Size vs throw from another thread: S21D with 519a versus S21D with 219b.
519a has higher output (about 6-10% in my S21D using my amateur level method so take with a grain of salt pls) but using same optic in same host the smaller 219b has better throw.
Please note “Sofirn IF25a 10° Clear” refers to the Sofirn optic that fits in S21D, NOT the Sofirn light.
My posts of B35AM will be mostly in Nichia thread, but FWIW, throw of this LED in M21B is 263 m. About same as Getian GT-FC40 4500k in the same host.
Hi all.
Have two lights - Wizard C2 LH351D Warm and Skilhunt H02 XML-2 Neutral White.
I am not very picky, and these both suit me completely and seem approximately the same shade.
Plan to buy also a Convoy H1, 75 degrees but there is only a color temperature.
Please tell me what temperature to choose, that would be like these two lights?
4000K, 5000K…?
Not sure exactly which were used in those two lights…might be mentioned in a good thorough past review. Generally “neutral” white has been around 5000K. This just came about after years and years of only cold white 6000K+ being available in most lights sold and before neutral/warm became more widely available. Sometimes companies state “warm” for a temp that is more along the “neutral” lines.
If I were you I’d probably order the 519A emitter in 5000K temp and it will likely be around the same temp with much nicer tint and color rendition…very nice on the eyes. I love the 4500K temp in that emitter and that’s noticeable warmer but not “warm” really…very nice. It might be a bigger difference than what you’re used to though, depending. The 219C options will be very similar to the LH351D overall…not sure what bins Simon has for the 219B but generally that emitter has tended toward a rosier tint which a lot of people like (not all 219B bins are like that, though). The 519A has proven to be a fantastic emitter in lots of different configurations even though it’s a very new model.
Pay attention to the smooky B35AM led on turbo mode.
Don’t overdrive it.
Agreed. For OP-oldman777: If I have to hazard a guess, warm white would be 4000k or below, and neutral white would be 4000-5000k.
Personally if I would only have 1 or 2 lights, I would try to stay in the 4000-5000k range. And if possible stay with Nichia 219b or 519a LED like Correllux suggested.
I noticed both of your lights have angled head? If you like angled small light and don’t mind the weight then check out Convoy H2
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803388357558.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&\_randl_shipto=US. I have nothing but praise for them. Do keep in mind they are a little too heavy if you are going to wear on forehead. I would recommend to stay with 4500k version for the perfect middle ground.
If you like bright more throwy light like these M21B/E/F with Getian GT-FC40 LED then I would highly recommend the 4500k version.
Thanks for reminder. I believe mine is the post-armageddon :person_facepalming: version of the light where Simon has lowered the current. No smoke so far on Turbo.
Thanks for your advice.
About ten years ago, I was fond of light for various purposes. Now this is only for minor indoor repairs. I think that 4500K-5000K is what I need.
This is about half that I have now : )
Oh you’re a seasoned veteran. :+1: I’m sure you’ve already noticed newer Convoy lights like M21E and F have integral USB-C charging and side button. Both features I like very much; particularly the side button, easier to use for me.
The Convoy Nichia light S21D should have a new version in a few weeks that also has side button and USB-C charging.
Yes, I still follow the novelties from time to time but buy only if necessary… I have a pair of lights with a side button Nitecore EA1 and EA11.
I also tried to use the USB charging, but it turned out to be not convenient for me.
When I do something and my battery was discharged, I quickly replace it with already charged and continue to work.
I always have a few battery pieces in a charged state.
Yeah if you don’t care about on board USB-C charging then H1 is excellent. Multiple Nichia LEDs (219b, 219c, 519a) available. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803188082981.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&\_randl_shipto=US
I love my Convoy H2 with Nichia 219b, it is a fantastic headlight for evening walks, with great sustained brightness and throw (OP reflector, not TIR). The weight means you need a good headstrap though.
(Repost from the other Convoy thread as it is actually a lot more relevant here.)
The trio of FC40 Convoy lights were tested for temp during a Turbo “run-down,” @ room temp 26° C. I tail-stand the lights and start at Turbo level, then measure temp in next 30 minutes by pointing IR gun at the flashlights’ head, about 1 cm away. S21D was also included in the test.
The S21D with 519a immediately heated up to 60 C (limit of my IR gun), within ~5 minutes. The other lights (M21B x 2, M21F, and M21E) reached equilibrium at around 20-25 minutes. Temps at the end, 30 min after Turbo start:
M21B w/ B35AM: 42 C
M21E w/ FC40: 44 C
M21F w/ FC40: 50 C
M21B w/ FC40: 57 C
Glad I did the test; didn’t realize that there is such a large temp difference between the larger M21E versus M21B. I have all 3 so it doesn’t matter but if I have to pick one out of these 3, for me this is another reason to pick M21E over the other 2 FC40 lights.
S21D with 519a too hot to handle inside house, and better outdoor. M21B also is on the hot side.
I tried to measure at the lens and also the LED directly after taking lens off, but it was too hot, beyond limit of the IR gun (60 C).
Both H1 and H2 are not too heavy?
Well Convoy H2 (if that’s what you’re asking about) and Coast XPH30R are the two heaviest headlamps I own, at 4.4 oz with battery. Short term wear there’s no problem, but for long term ~30-45 min wear, headlamps around 4 oz and up tend to make my forehead uncomfortable. But this is just me, YMMV of course.
For example in comparison my Sofirn D25L is 3.7 oz and Skilhunt H04R RC w/ Nichia 519a is 3.4 oz with battery. Skilhunt is like a little light weight jewel.
OTOH everything else about Convoy H2 I love: beautiful 219b 4500k LED, very bright (subjectively A LOT brighter than Skilhunt and Sofirn), great sustained brightness, throwy beam. All factors combined make it a fantastic headlamp for walks. Personally I would recommend either Olight or Skilhunt headbands with overhead strap for this light, and not Convoy’s own headband. I plan to compare these lights in my other Convoy Nichia thread in future.
The Convoy metal switches seem similar among Convoy lights so I am not sure if M21B’s switch will be much different from what you have?
Convoy metal vs rubber switch: personally I find both full press and half press much easier with metal switch, but don’t know how applicable that is to your situation on a bicycle.